Question about Dryers

1 Answer

Thanks where is the heating element located and where can i order one cheap can you give me a diagram of whereto locate it lostgirl77@hotmail.com

Posted by on

1 Answer

  • Level 1:

    An expert who has achieved level 1.

    Hot-Shot:

    An expert who has answered 20 questions.

    Corporal:

    An expert that hasĀ over 10 points.

    Mayor:

    An expert whose answer gotĀ voted for 2 times.

  • Contributor
  • 62 Answers

Need to know what model, make

Posted on Nov 09, 2008


1 Suggested Answer

6ya6ya
  • 2 Answers

SOURCE: I have freestanding Series 8 dishwasher. Lately during the filling cycle water hammer is occurring. How can this be resolved

Hi,
a 6ya expert can help you resolve that issue over the phone in a minute or two.
best thing about this new service is that you are never placed on hold and get to talk to real repairmen in the US.
the service is completely free and covers almost anything you can think of (from cars to computers, handyman, and even drones).
click here to download the app (for users in the US for now) and get all the help you need.
goodluck!

Posted on Jan 02, 2017

Add Your Answer

Uploading: 0%

my-video-file.mp4

Complete. Click "Add" to insert your video. Add

×

Loading...
Loading...

Related Questions:

1 Answer

The Whirlpool 3RAWZ480E is running normal the problem is " no heating"


More often than not a no heat condition is caused by a failure of the heating element in electric dryers. Less frequent but just as likely is a failure of the thermal fuse which is located on a portion of the internal ducting where heated air passes through. The thermal fuse will disable the heating element in the event of uncontrolled overheating, which may have been caused by a malfunction of the temperature control thermostat or a malfunction/failure of a thermal circuit breaker.

Inside the appliance, either in the main cabinet or inside the control enclosure you will find the circuit diagrams and parts listing. If you feel confident in doing the repair yourself, these documents will help you locate the components of the system and give you the part numbers you need to order replacements. Make sure you disconnect from power before opening the cabinet. An inexpensive multi-tester will be all you need to check continuity of the components in the heating circuit.

Jun 30, 2011 | Dryers

2 Answers

Dryer is running - but no heat. Thanks, Alex


Hi, read about your problem. You are going to need a heating element part number 340590 and a cycling thermo part number 8318268. You will have to take the front off of the dryer. BE SURE TO UNPLUG. You'll see the element and the thermostat is on the blower housing. Hope this helps.

Jan 19, 2011 | Maytag MED5820TW Electric Dryer

1 Answer

I have a Kenmore Model 110.96566200 Dryer. It tumbles, but only blows out cool air. What is the problem? Where can I find a manual or a schematic online for it?


If your ELECTRIC dryer is still running, but does NOT produce heat properly, the following two links can give you advice on how to troubleshoot an ELECTRIC dryer with a no heat problem:

http://www.fixya.com/support/r3576548-dryer_runs_but_does_not_heat

http://www.fixya.com/support/r3574266-thorough_dryer_advice


IMPORTANT: Your problem may or may not be related to a heating element problem as there are numerous factors that can cause a dryer not to heat. The heating element has protection devices that are designed to regulate the heat and internal temperatures. If the dryer overheats the Thermal Cut-Out (TCO) typically will blow BEFORE the heating element. The replacement kit is much cheaper than purchasing a new heating element that may or may not be the problem.


Begin by unplugging the dryer and verifying the voltage at the wall receptacle. You should read 220-240VAC across the two Hot terminals (left and right slots). If the voltage is incorrect, check to make sure you don't have a breaker tripped. Some homes use 2 separate 120VAC breakers to provide power to the receptacle vice using one 240VAC breaker.

If the voltage IS correct, leave the dryer unplugged and remove the cover plate on the terminal block in the back of the dryer (this is where the power cord is installed). Plug the dryer back in and take a voltage reading across the two hot (RED and BLACK) wires at the terminal block. You should read 220-240VAC. If the voltage is good, you have an internal heating problem. If the voltage is bad at the terminal block, but good at the receptacle, you have a bad power cord.

NOTE: If the wires at the terminal block are not color coded, the outer two wires (left and right) are the hot leads. The center conductor is neutral or ground.

The reason a dryer will still run if the input voltage is incorrect, is because the drive motor only uses a portion of the 220 service. The motor runs off 110-120VAC, while the heating circuits require 220-240VAC. So, if you are missing 1/2 your input voltage due to a tripped breaker or bad power cord, your dryer may exhibit these symptoms.

If you determine the problem to be internal, the heating circuits will either be located in the rear of the dryer on the right hand, or under the dryer drum. Usually, an easy way to determine is by the location of the lint screen filter. If the filter is on top of the dryer, the heating circuits are in the back of the dryer. If the lint screen is in the door, the heating circuits are located under the dryer drum.

On a Whirlpool Duet or Kenmore Elite model, the heating circuits are located inside the dryer under the dryer drum on the right hand side. You will need to remove the lower toe panel under the door to access. The toe panel comes off by locating and removing the screws under the bottom front edge of the panel. The Heating Element is located inside a heater box. The Thermal Cut-Out (TCO) will be located on the outside of the heater box on the end opposite the heating element terminals (all the way towards the back of the dryer cabinet). The Hi-Limit Thermostat will be located adjacent to the heating element terminals.

If either the TCO or Hi-Limit Thermostat are determined to be bad, replace BOTH components at the same time. That is why these components are commonly sold as a set. Failure to do so may result in premature failure of any parts you replace.

Replacement parts (if required) may be found at the following websites:

searspartsdirect.com
pcappliancerepair.com
appliancepartspros.com
repairclinic.com

The average cost of these components varies, so shop and compare. The first three websites I listed have helpful
exploded view parts diagrams that can help you locate and properly identify any parts you may need. The heating components are usually listed under the "Bulkhead" section. Part numbers for the model you have listed are as follows:


Thermal Cut-Out/Hi-Limit Thermostat Kit - Item 1 (part number 279816)
Heating Element - Item 14 (part number 279838)


If you need a wiring diagram, most of these dryers will have a diagram available inside the operator console for repair technician use.

If you have any questions, please post back and let me know. I hope you find this information helpful.


NOTE: If your model number is not listed on some of the websites, use the part numbers from the Sears website and use that as your search criteria. Some model numbers will not reference on some sites, but the part numbers will.

Dec 22, 2010 | Dryers

1 Answer

I need to locate the heating element in my Maytag MDE5500AYW Dryer. I had the front pulled off and could see the drum etc. But could not easily find the heating element and I am afraid to take off too much...


www.scribd.com/.../Maytag-Neptune-MAH3000AWW-Service-Manual
Please use these service manuals, above and below to help you locate your issue, inside these manuals are all diagrams etc.
www.servicematters.com/maytag_library/docs/16010061.pdf

Jun 21, 2010 | Maytag Neptune MDE5500AY Electric Dryer

1 Answer

Electric Heating Element


No continuity would mean the element is OPEN, or showing an infinite resistance reading. If the element were SHORTED, it would read 0 ohms. These elements are supposed to read 9 to 13 ohms if good. Double check and make sure have your meter scale set correctly. You should be taking resistance checks on the lowest scale of Rx1.

If you have confirmed the element is defective, and the model dryer is correct, the element should pull out of the heater box by removing two screws on the left hand side of the box. You will need to remove the thermal cut-out (TCO) and hi-limit thermostat in order to accommodate removal of the element. These are the two components that are mounted on the side of the heater box. You leave the wires connected, and simply remove any mounting screws that hold them in place. This will keep the element from coming out of the heater box.

If these instructions are not clear, please post back with your MODEL NUMBER so I can understand how your dryer is configured.

If your dryer runs, but does NOT heat, the following two links can give you some added advice on how to troubleshoot an ELECTRIC dryer with a no heat problem:

http://www.fixya.com/support/r3576548-dryer_runs_but_does_not_heat

http://www.fixya.com/support/r3574266-thorough_dryer_advice


First, begin by unplugging the dryer and verifying the voltage at the wall receptacle. You should read 220-240VAC across the two Hot terminals (left and right slots). If the voltage is incorrect, check to make sure you don't have a breaker tripped. Some homes use 2 separate 120VAC breakers to provide power to the receptacle vice using one 240VAC breaker.

If the voltage IS correct, leave the dryer unplugged and remove the cover plate on the terminal block in the back of the dryer (this is where the power cord is installed). Plug the dryer back in and take a voltage reading across the two hot (RED and BLACK) wires at the terminal block. You should read 220-240VAC. If the voltage is good, you have an internal heating problem. If the voltage is bad at the terminal block, but good at the receptacle, you have a bad power cord.

NOTE: If the wires at the terminal block are not color coded, the outer two wires (left and right) are the hot leads. The center conductor is neutral or ground.

The reason a dryer will still run if the input voltage is incorrect, is because the drive motor only uses a portion of the 220 service. The motor runs off 110-120VAC, while the heating circuits require 220-240VAC. So, if you are missing 1/2 your input voltage due to a tripped breaker or bad power cord, your dryer may exhibit these symptoms.

If you determine the problem to be internal, the heating circuits will either be located in the rear of the dryer on the right hand, or under the dryer drum on the right hand side. Usually, an easy way to determine is by the location of the lint screen filter. If the filter is on top of the dryer, the heating circuits are in the back of the dryer. If the lint screen is in the door, the heating circuits are located under the dryer drum.

The Heating Element is located inside a heater box. The Thermal Cut-Out (TCO) will be located on the outside of the heater box on the end opposite the heating element terminals. The Hi-Limit Thermostat will be located adjacent to the heating element terminals.

If either the TCO or Hi-Limit Thermostat are determined to be bad, replace BOTH components at the same time. That is why these components are commonly sold as a set. Failure to do so may result in premature failure of any parts you replace.

Replacement parts (if required) can be found at the following websites:

searspartsdirect.com
pcappliancerepair.com
appliancepartspros.com
repairclinic.com

The average cost of these components varies, so shop and compare. The first three websites I listed have helpful exploded view parts diagrams that can help you locate and properly identify the parts you need. The heating components are usually listed under the "Bulkhead" section.

Read through the information I provided and, if you have any questions. I'm assuming this is a Whirlpool Electric Dryer, because of the illustration you posted the question under. I hope you find this information is helpful.

If you would like some added advice that can help you in the future, Repairclinic.com has a repair manual that you can purchase that you can to help repair any Whirlpool manufactured gas or electric dryer. The part number is 1159257.

May 10, 2010 | Whirlpool Duet 7.0 Cu. Ft. Super Capacity...

1 Answer

I was not getting heat in my electric dryer, i replaced the heating element, it worked for a few minutes, then i lost heat again


If you've already replaced the heating element, you need to check the Thermal Cut-Out (TCO). The TCO works in conjunction with the Hi-Limit Thermostat to regulate and protect the heating element. Both of these components are mounted on the outside of the heater box. The TCO is located at the end opposite the heating element terminals, while the Hi-Limit Thermostat is located adjacent to the heating element terminals.

The following link explains how to troubleshoot these components and what the resistance readings should be:

http://www.fixya.com/support/r3576548-dryer_runs_but_does_not_heat

If the TCO is found to be defective, it is recommended you replace the Hi-Limit Thermostat as well. Failure to do so can result in premature failure of any parts you replace. These two components are commonly sold as a set.

Replacement parts (if required) can be purchased at any of the following websites:

searspartsdirect.com
pcappliancerepair.com
appliancepartspros.com
repairclinic.com

All these sites are reputable and offer great service with competitive pricing, so shop and compare. The first three sites I listed also include helpful exploded view parts diagrams to assist you in locating and properly identifying the parts you need. If you do not wish to order parts on line, you can use the part numbers from the Sears website and go to your nearest appliance parts retailer. These components are commonly sold as part of their in-store inventory.

If you have any questions about this repair, please post back and let me know. I hope you find this information helpful.

NOTE: Make sure you verify the power at the wall receptacle before you begin. If you are missing half your input voltage (due to a tripped breaker or bad power cord), the dryer may still run, but won't heat.

Feb 25, 2010 | Kenmore Dryers

1 Answer

No heat in Maytag Electric Dryer


There should be a wiring diagram inside the operating console. Locate the thermal fuse and/or thermal cut-out and ensure they check good. They both should read close to a short if good. They are mounted adjacent to the heating element. If you have trouble locating the diagram and/or need further assistance isolating the problem, please post back with the dryer model number (located on the back of the console) and I will locate some diagrams to see if I can assist you further.

May 28, 2008 | Dryers

1 Answer

Blowing cold air


There is not a reset button on an electric dryer that I know of. If a dryer is blowing air at all, that tells me that the blower assembly and drum motor are working. If you have not heat it is generally caused one of the following:

1. Bad thermal cut-out - located near the heating element housing. Should read a SHORT (0 ohms on an ohm meter) if good. If bad, it is generally a good idea to replace the TCO along with the Hi-Limit Thermostat (mounted right next the TCO in most cases) because the TCO is designed to protect the thermostat and heating element. If the TCO fails, it is likely that the thermostat could also be damaged.

2. Hi-Limit Thermostat failure - located near the heating element housing. The thermostat opens when the internal heat reaches about 157 degrees (on most dryers). This helps regulate the dryer temperature and helps protect the heating element. If it reads a constant OPEN (infinity reading on an ohm meter), replace it along with the TCO (as mentioned above).

3. Bad Heating Element - located under the drum on some dryer models and in the rear on others. The element should read about 9-11 ohms if good. If they go bad, the element will generally burns itself OPEN.

I will need you model number (located near the dryer door opening) in order to give you better advice on how to access the inside of the dryer. Post back with comments and let me know. I hope you find this helpful.

PS I hope I didn't insult your intelligence, but some people are little more saavy than others, so I try to explain things in the simplest of terms.

Jan 14, 2008 | Dryers

Not finding what you are looking for?
Dryers Logo

Related Topics:

41 people viewed this question

Ask a Question

Usually answered in minutes!

Top Dryers Experts

Richard Roth
Richard Roth

Level 3 Expert

9472 Answers

yadayada
yadayada

Level 3 Expert

63990 Answers

Donald DCruz
Donald DCruz

Level 3 Expert

17129 Answers

Are you a Dryer Expert? Answer questions, earn points and help others

Answer questions

Manuals & User Guides

Loading...