Nut holding the fan in place came off as well as fan with a bang.we found the nut in the bottom of the machine and put it all back together again,i noticed the heater element was all blue as this might of overheated so i replaced this now everything works xcept the heater doesnt get hot,is there a safety cut out
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Fixed: dryer not heating up (Hoover vision hd 381)
Just fixed a hoover vision hd 381 tumble dryer. Thanks to the help on this site and others. Thought I would share my experience here. Problem was tumbledryer not getting hot. Traced it fairly quickly to a blown heating element. Took the back heater cover off (bulging silver panel), unscrewed heater, peered inside and it was somewhat charred (tested the thermostats which were fine). Dryer works now.
The really tricky thing was unplugging the heating element to replace it. The plugs are located inside the main housing.
However, the advice found on much of the internet to how to do this is incorrect. In particular the advice to remove the drum is not correct.
The way you access the plugs is by pulling the main heating wire through the hole in the unit, and feeding the plugs through one by one.
Then you can simply unplug the old one, plug in the new one.
Two things are necessary for this:
i) Remove the rubber collar keeping the main wire secure in the hole into the main unit.
ii) Pushing the plastic grommet through the small hole in the main unit. This grommet immobilises the main wire - you won't feed it through without it being released. You'll see quickly what this looks like on the replacement heater you should already have. The white plastic grommet protrudes a little out of the back of the unit close to where the heating wire enters the unit. Pinch it with a pair of pliers and push it back into the unit. The wire will then be free to pull through, and one plug at a time will fit through till you have all four. Then just pull the plugs off (pushing the new ones on requires quite alot of force).
In fact it is not necessary to strip down the unit at all to do this, apart from one thing: putting the grommet back for the new heater. It needs to be pushed from the inside. This probably isn't strictly necessary (I say probably), but I did it anyway. I suspect the grommet is there so that if the heater hangs free, it doesn't pull the wire up and stress the plugs. But I wanted to put the thing back exactly like I found it.
However, you still don't need to take the drum out to do this. You do however need to take the plastic mounting off that supports the drum. Then you can reach in with your hand and manouver the grommet into place.
So the repair ideally should be firstly to replace the heater in the way described above. Then put the cover back on as you'll need the unit on its back later.
Briefly, instructions for stripping down the unit:
i) Unscrew the 3 top screws located on the back of the unit holding the top of the unit on. Slide the top back and lift it off.
ii) Disconnect the door by undoing the allen key screws. Once these are off, lift the door off.
iii) Unscrew the plastic faceplate from the top (2 screws), to reveal two of 8 screws holding the metal front in place. I wired the plastic faceplate (with control knobs) onto the unit so I could still access these 2 screws, without the faceplate hanging free and risking disconnecting something.
iv) Unscrew the remaining 6 screws (4 near the rubber seal, 2 at the very bottom). Remove the rubber seal carefully.
v) Lift the metal front off, and disconnect the wires (keep track of which goes where!) Place the machine on its back (support it with blocks where the bulging heating element is).
vi) Unscrew the four nuts holding the plastic mounting which supports the drum.
vii) Slide the plastic mounting up by about 10mm and hinge it out from the bottom. This lifts the felt seal off the drum. The machine needs to be on its back so the drum which is now only held on to the back plate doesn't stress itself under its own weight. Make sure you know where the wires need to be fed. I took videos and pictures on my phone at each step.
viii) It should now be possible to reach in past the drum and click the grommet back in place.
(email@example.com if anyone wants to ask questions).
I ended up drilling 2 holes in the metal casing that is blocking the 2 bottom screws from being removed. However, I'm stuck trying to unscrew the big nut that is holding the fan in place. This is such a bad design. This part is not easy to replace. Would love to hear any tips for doing this job easier.
Unplug the dryer from the electrical outlet.
Slide the dryer out from the wall and disconnect the dryer vent from the
back of the dryer. Loosen the retaining screw on the clamp connecting
the vent to the dryer's exhaust port and slide the vent off of the port. Remove the hex nuts holding the dryer's rear panel in place and slide
the rear panel off to the side of the dryer. Locate the high-limit
thermostat on the heating element housing on the right side of the
dryer. The oval-shaped thermostat can be found a few inches from the
bottom of the heating element housing. Unplug the two thermostat wires by sliding them off of the thermostat's
contact posts. Slide the old thermostat out of the socket on the heating
Broken or belt has come off. If can open back and fix or replace. You may need to remove the top. Careful of the heat element, lift out drum and place new belt on motor holding it while you put the drum back keep hold of belt and place around drum replace top and should be ok. Hope this Helps
I finally had a GE authorized tech come to our house, because we've had the same problem on and off for about 2 yrs. Our's is 5 1/2 yrs old, and the problem was the blower motor, which is hard to get to, and the nut holding the fan in place is also put on going the "opposite" direction. (So lefty loosey, righty tighty doesn't work for this one) The Tech told me in all his years he has never replaced a heater in any of these, and it has 2. The usual problem is the blower motor has gone bad. It's working great now, and it was $470 to fix, but still cheaper than a new one....
Unplug the dryer from the wall before starting. Find the dryer heating element cabinet. For most dryers this is located in the back, however it can be in the front. Find the compartment on the dryer.
the screws or clips to get into the compartment to expose the heating
element and wires. Use a needlenose pliers to carefully remove the
the can shaped object that may cover the heating element. Tip the can
backward to slip it off the hooks holding it in place. Some models
place the heating element with the can, while others provide easier
access to it.
Unscrew the screws holding the element in place and pull it out.
the new element in place, and replace the screws to secure it in the
dryer. Put the can back in place and connect the element wires before
putting on the cabinet cover.
Run the dryer on fluff with no heat, and go outside to make sure enough air is getting through the vent system.
Break the new heating element in by running your dryer on high heat for 10 minutes without any clothes in the dryer. This cleans oily residue off the element and keep the clothes from getting smoky.
It is common for small items (such as coins) to get stuck inside the dryer drum baffles. You can easily remove them without disassembling the entire dryer. The screws that hold them in place are located on the outside of the dryer drum. In order to access, follow these steps:
1. Unplug the dryer.
2. Remove the top panel of the dryer by removing the three screws located in the back of the dryer holding the panel in place. Once the screws are removed, the top panel slides back, then lifts off.
Each drum baffle has two screws holding it in place. Remove the screws and the baffle will drop into the drum allowing you to easily check inside each one.
Another source of dryer noise is something caught in the blower fan housing. You will need to remove the lower toe panel directly below the dryer door to access. Follow these steps:
1. Open the dryer door and remove the lint screen (the blower fan cover will not come off with the lint screen in place).
2. Locate the screws that hold the toe panel in place along the bottom front edge of the panel. HINT: Propping the front feet of the dryer up can give you better access to reach the screws (a 2x4 works well for this). With the screws removed the toe panel will drop down, then come off.
3. Remove the screws that hold the blower fan cover in place.
Inspect the blower fan housing for any objects that may be vibrating against the fan blades.
If you still need further assistance, please let me know. I hope you find this helpful.
unplug dryer there is a panel on the back of dryer bottom 2 screws to remove pull panel out reach inside take belt off motor(note how it comes off) about half way up the back of dryer is a cover (about 3x5) take that cover off you will see a E clip...remove it with a flat screw driver next open door look up and see screws and remove them lift up on lid and from inside remove screws that hold front panel note the way the wires are on door switch lift panel up and out... pull drum out watch for round bushing and washers take lint filter out clean ...lint passage and fan all pipes and element... remove all lint ..if you can get an air tank,it is best to blow the motor out with air ...on the belt puly center should be grease if not put some in...try not to move the element too much( and break it ve6gar