Question about Carrier Heating & Cooling

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I have a Carrier Weathermaker Infinity furnace model 58MVP100-F-1-20 with 3 zones and Carrier Comfort Zone II programable thermostat. I recently installed ageothermal heat pump system which includes a hot water coil in the furnace plennum. The heat pump is sized to meet loads except for the coldest days of winter - (below 0 F) - when the gas furnace is expected to kick in. My problem appears to be the Weathermaker's characteristics don't accommodate the low heat /slow response provided by a hot water coil. The air handler (blower) kicks into high speed virtually every time the thermostat requests heat. When thermostat settings are raised (in the morning for example) - the burners ignite after several minutes rather than allowing the geothermal system enough time to warm the house. The geothermal installers did something that causes the thermostat to occasionally display an AUX HEAT icon. They mentioned possibly installing a timer to delay the furnace ignition - but I suspect they may be in over their head. I need to know how to de-sensitize the weather maker to accommodate a lower temperature heat source (i.e. delay or exclude high speed blower and burner operations). It would be nice if I could reverse these modifications in the event of geothermal system failure.

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  • PRK1 Nov 09, 2008

    I uderstand the concept of how the Weathermaker operates. I am lookng for advice on to to adjust its controls to change how it operates with a geothermal heat source.

  • PRK1 Nov 10, 2008

    abhishek33 - I appreciate your responses - but my problem is not due to a malfunction but rather system compatibility. A solution will require expertise specific to the Carrier Weathermaker Infinity product line. thank-you

  • PRK1 Nov 11, 2008

    jasond1011 is indeed a guru. His response demonstrated true expertise - unlike the folks who simply advised I call tech support. thx

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Http://www.hvac-talk.com/vbb/archive/index.php?t-85094.html here is a site i found very useful

Posted on Nov 11, 2008

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You can disconnect the wire attached to w2 on the new stat and that way the stat will be unable to turn on the furnace when you push it more than two degrees above the room temp. if you leave the wire connected to w2 then anytime the stats desired temp is set more than two degrees warmer than the house, the heat pump and the furnace are designed to come on together till the temp approaches two degrees of set point then the furnace shuts down and the pump maintains. this way the pump will do its thing till it gets cold. (below 40 degrees). when that happens you can go to the stat and switch to emergency heat. this will power up only the furnace as soon as there is a first stage call for heat. it will not wait to see what the pump is doing and go to heating with furnace right away. you simply switch back to normal heat setting when temps go back above 40 degrees. the furnace is actually wired to two terminals on the stat. w2 is backup heat terminal you disconnect and the x terminal or aux terminal is energized only when you are switched into emergency heat.

Posted on Nov 10, 2008

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Hi!!

the best you can do! try to contact
service support unit!!

Posted on Nov 10, 2008

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Try the following link---
http://www.repairclinic.com/0047_16.asp
hope helpful thanks

Posted on Nov 10, 2008

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Step 1: Remove old thermostat. Take faceplate off old unit, and look for mounting screws. Remove screws to release thermostat from wall. Remove wires from back of old thermostat by turning connection screws counterclockwise. Be careful not to let loose wires fall down between walls.

Step 2: Clean exposed wires by scraping them with utility knife until wire ends shine. Attach wires to new thermostat. New thermostat must have the same electrical rating as old one.

Step 3: Once wires are attached to replacement thermostat, push wires back into wall, and tape up opening to prevent cold air inside walls from affecting thermostat.

Step 4: Install mounting screws to secure new thermostat to wall. If thermostat has mercury tube, set unit against level during installation; mercury tube thermostats must be exactly level.

Step 5: Snap faceplate back into place. Make sure new thermostat turns heating/cooling system on and off when temperature setting is adjusted.

Posted on Nov 09, 2008

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  • ABHISHEK.C
    ABHISHEK.C Nov 10, 2008

    Here's how to check a thermostat's accuracy and clean it if necessary:

    Step 1: Tape glass tube thermometer to wall a few inches away from thermostat. Pad thermometer with paper towel to prevent it from touching wall. Make sure neither thermometer nor thermostat is affected by any outside temperature influences. In some homes, hole in wall behind thermostat through which wires enter is too large, allowing cold air to reach thermostat and affect its reading.

    Step 2:  Wait about 15 minutes for mercury to stabilize. Then compare reading on thermometer with reading of thermostat needle.

    Step 3:  If variation is more than a degree, check to see if thermostat is dirty. To examine thermostat, remove faceplate, usually held by a snap or friction catch. Blow away any dust inside it. Do not use a vacuum cleaner; its suction is too great. If thermostat has accessible contact points, rub new dollar bill between them to clean these spots. Do not use sandpaper or emery cloth. If element is coiled, use soft brush for cleaning.

    Step 4: If thermostat has mercury vial inside, use level to make sure unit is straight. If thermostat is not straight, loosen mounting screws and adjust thermostat until it is level. Then retighten screws.

    Step 5: After cleaning thermostat, check it again with glass thermometer, as detailed in Steps 1 and 2. If thermostat is still not calibrated properly, it should be replaced as detailed below.

  • ABHISHEK.C
    ABHISHEK.C Nov 10, 2008

    hi

    If the appliance has a thermocouple, the problem may be a faulty thermocouple. The thermocouple, which operates as a safety device, turns the gas supply off when the pilot light goes out. It consists of a heat sensor connected to a solenoid; when the sensor is not heated by the pilot flame, the solenoid closes the gas supply line. When a thermocouple fails, the pilot light won't stay lighted. A burned out or broken thermocouple should be replaced. To replace a thermocouple:

    Step 1: Unscrew the copper lead and the connection nut inside the threaded connection to the gas line.

    Step 2: Under the mounting bracket at the thermocouple tube, unscrew the bracket nut that holds the tube in place.

    Step 3: Insert a new thermocouple into the hole in the bracket, steel tube facing up and copper lead down.

    Step 4: Under the bracket, screw the bracket nut over the tube. Push the connection nut to the threaded connection where the copper lead connects to the gas line. Make sure the connection is clean and dry.

    Step 5: Screw the nut tightly into place, but do not overtighten it. Both the bracket nut and the connection nut should be only a little tighter than if hand-tightened.



  • ABHISHEK.C
    ABHISHEK.C Nov 10, 2008

    sorry i have no other solutions thank u

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You are best off calling the manufacturer, for the best and proper advice as they are the ones who make them. they wll give you a step by step guide, and even fix the problem for a low fee with a hands on approach, tht is your best bet.

Posted on Nov 09, 2008

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As a marine electrician I had to deal with radically contrasting environments within the ship itself. Seems elementary that the sensor's immediate environment would be a consideration my dear Watson :)

Posted on Nov 09, 2008

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This piece of equipment is designed to deliver a know needed CFM at a given static duct pressure. You have the best furnace on the market that was doing what it was told by the installing company to do. By shutting the registers off you literally threw a monkey wrench into the works. The more registers you shut off the higher speed the blower tried to turn to deliver the proper CFM. This drove the static pressure and amperage up on the motor and contoller. If you are having issues with comfort here is a tip that I give everyone with this style furnace. The blower on this furnace is designed for continuous duty. "OPEN EVERY REGISTER WIDE OPEN!", turn the blower on continuous at your thermostat. Make sure to use a good grade filter and change on monthly basis. 
 The motor your furnace uses is a 3 phase D/C motor, the module on the back of the motor that is going to have to be replaced is a A/C pulse modulator. Yes it feeds A/C voltage to a D/C motor, rather it pulses A/C into the motor.  This furnace operates for mere pennies on the dollar.

Posted on Nov 09, 2008

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1 Answer

Where is.the battery on the comfort zone II


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www.brivis.com.au/.../Carrier%20Comfort%20Zone%20II%20Owner's%20Guide.pdf
Perhaps you could get some help from Carrier Support here:
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