Jensen 425watt hookup problem

sounds like you have a dead short internally and unless you find and fix it will continue to blow fuses .

You have a short some where. Look for a nick on the thermostat wire. And it could be anywhere. at the furnace or Ac. Take all of the wires off of the thermostat and try it. if it blows the stat is ok now take one wire off at a time from the terminal strip on the furnace and try the fuse each time. If you can get your hands on a little popper and put it in place of the fuse it is a mini circuit breaker 3 or 5 amp. Saves on fuses It will be a matter of tracing out which wire hooked up blows the fuse or popper. and then what is being energized a contactor, relay, gas valve etc....It takes some time

Pls be more specific, doe's this fuse keep blowing or what? Fuse blows and your car won't start. I have a 2004 GTC and the #8 fuse kept blowing, had to replace the starter, (it was pulling 80amps instead or the normal 30-35) once the starter was replaced, no more starting issues and the fuse no longer blows. Hope this helps, good luck

i would check wire harness for bare wire but first i would look under that massive fuse box under hood, i kept blowing air cond relay and i traced it back to corroded connection on that fuse. not saying this is it and i hope it is that simple for you. other than that research exactly what the ecm-1 CONTROLS and search,test,grounds those systems. If i can come across any other symptoms i will forward them to you.

try disconect for 1 minute and check the 10 amp fuse in back

You need to have the receiver serviced. The fuse is blowing because some part in the power supply or amplifier section has failed. A service technician will need to troubleshoot the unit to determine what parts need to be replaced.

Measure the DC voltage across the B+ and ground terminals as well as across remote and ground. If you have less than 11 volts when the amp tries to power up, the amp could be shutting down due to low voltage.

If the voltage remains near or above 12v, disconnect all speaker wires and signal cables from the amp. If it powers up, the wiring needs to be checked. If it still shuts down or blows the fuse when you apply remote voltage (turn the head unit on), the amp likely has blown output transistors.

If it keeps blowing fuses then #1 its internally damaged or "blown" .. Or #2 i would make sure you have the battery power hooked up to the + terminal and the ground wire running from the car body to the - terminal.. so if its hooked up correctly and keeps blowing fuses then it requires repair.. I wish i had better news but thats all it can be...

You will need to have the amp bench tested at full load to see if there is a pending problem. It will need to see with speaker loading resistors, how much current the amp is drawing and at different frequencies. if the amp checks out with the proper current, at the rated output, have the speaker checked out. Good Luck

for this to cause a problem with amplifiers there is something internally wrong with it. Most of the time the mosfets take a shit from the hot...cold....hot....cold atmosphere its put in by all of us audio people. If it still has warrenty that would be the easiest route to go. Send it in to them and have them fix it for FREE lol!! well sorta. Hope this helps you understand why you are blowing fuses.