The washer tub and basket appear to be gyrating unevenly.
Both can be moved manually inside the washer.
The uneven gyration is rubbing against the top plastic circular part underneath the lid and above the lid and basket. It is also making a noise when this happens.
I'm sure the basket is spinning unevenly. I believe something is wrong with the tub as I don't believe it should be moving as freely as it does.
Please let me know if anyone can help.
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Re: Tub and Basket
Fairway, sounds like you have a worn drive block. You are going to have to remove the agitator and inspect the drive block. If it is the drive block you will get some good hammering when the spin cycle stops. I will attach some photos of a worn out drive block. If you want to attempt to handle this yourself, we can walk you through it. Catriver..post back.
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First, OL/UL stands for "Overload", so in other words, the washer things the tub is too hard to move because it's overloaded and the motor is struggling or the unit is way out of balance causing the washer to struggle. The most common problem is a nut below the inner tub that needs to "float". Floating is when the tub fills up with water to a certain level the inner basket will rise about 1 inch from the center agitator. What this does is disengage the basket from the motor so that the agitator can rotate independently from the basket. If the basket does not float then when it tries to agitate the whole basket will turn back and forth at the same speed as the agitator and this will cause the OL/UL error code.
Bearing Replacement (Part 1 of 3)
This advice is for replacing the rear wash tub shell of most
Kenmore Elite HE model FRONT
LOADERS, along with Whirlpool Duet, and some Frigidaire FRONT
LOADER models.This is a repair that
would be rated as difficult due to the extensive disassembly and
reassembly of components.
The requirement to replace the rear wash tub shell is
usually attributed to the rear tub bearing failure in which the bearings are
molded into the tub and cannot be replaced otherwise.In some situations the replacement of the
inner spinner basket (stainless steel tub) may also be required due to the
corrosion and breakage of the spider arms in the back of the basket that
support the basket.
SYMPTOMS:Washer exhibits excessively loud “rumbling” type noise during the spin
cycle, excessively vibrates, or won’t spin at all.
DETERMINING IF THE BEARING AND SPIN BASKET ARE BAD:
With the washer door open, place your hand inside the basket and push straight
up.If there is excessive play in the
tub (wobbles up and down) the bearing is probably bad.If the spinner basket scrapes against the
outer tub shell when you give it a spin, you will have to replace the inner
spin basket as well. Unfortunately, you cannot see the condition of spinner
basket supports until it is removed from the outer tub shells.In some cases, a brownish colored stain
my show up on clothing as the bearing seal has been breached and leaks into the
Before starting this repair, make sure you read through all
instructions thoroughly and place the washer is in an area that gives you
plenty of space to work.
If you find no problems with the suspension rods and springs, you can remove that spin basket and check for an item that could be stuck between the spin basket and the plastic outer tub. Also, check the "balance ring" on the top of the basket. The should be fluid in it. You can check this my shaking the basket and you should hear water.
if you can open the door,grab the inner basket at 9 and 3 o'clock and see if you can move it sideways,then again at 6 and 12 o'clock and move it up and down,if you can do this,then the drum spider trunnion is broken in behind the tub and the tub is loose which will require a new tub and trunnion as they are not sold separately at about $400.00
If you are talking about the entire assy. basket and outer tub your support springs have broken,they hold the weight of the tub and basket. For the entire assy. to be laying in the bottom it also had to have the shock absorbers come loose or break..Now if you are saying that the basket is loose inside the outer tub that's much worse than a broken tub support and most likely a rear tub half with bearing assy.You can easily remove the 3 screws on the back of the TOP slide toward the rear and look inside their should be 2 large springs 1 on the left and 1 on the right
Overfilling loads can cause small objects like pins, coins, and small socks to get between the tub abd Basket of your washer.
The basket is held onto the rear half of the outer tub simply by the bolt to the main pulley. Remove the bolt, remove the pulley, and the basket shaft should slip right out of the bearings of the rear tub.
Simply shining a light around between the basket and outer tub should confirm that there is something in there, since you have access to do this with the front tub removed. Go ahead, remove the pulley and bolt, and if the basket comes out, then check everything out.
If it doesn't, don't try pounding it out; stop there and go to plan B, which is a new basket and tub assembly.
Thanks for using FixYa. If your washer is a front load washer then check these things if it is making noise--
bellows is a rubber sleeve that seals the suspended outer tub to the stationary
cabinet front at the tub opening. Its purpose is to provide a water tight
opening into the tub that can be sealed by the cabinet door, yet allow
flexibility for the oscillation of the tub during the wash and spin cycles. Outer
outer tub assembly is supported by two suspension springs and stabilized by two
air shock assemblies. A cement counter weight is mounted to the front of the
outer tub by screws. A counterweight is molded into the rear half of the outer
tub. These counterweights prevent excessive oscillation of the entire suspended
assembly during an unbalanced spin cycle. Spin
spin basket is constructed of stainless steel. The circumference of the basket
is perforated to allow water to flow through it as it revolves. A heavy steel
shaft is pressed into the spin basket support which is then bolted to the
basket. The spin basket assembly is entirely supported by two ball bearings
pressed into the rear of the outer tub. A large drive pulley is mounted to the
free end of the shaft that extends through the rear of the outer tub. There are
three plastic vanes mounted to the spin basket to aid in the washing action
during the wash cycle. The rotation of the spin basket provides both the
washing action during the wash cycle, and water extraction during the spin
High pitch "jet engine" noise--A certain
amount of motor whine is normal during the spin cycle.
Rattling and clanking noise--
• Foreign objects such as coins or safety pins may be in
drum or pump. Stop washer and check drum. If noise continues after washer is
restarted, objects may be in pump.
• Belt buckles and metal fasteners are hitting wash drum. To
prevent unnecessary noise and damage to drum, fasten fasteners and turn items
Squealing sound or hot rubber odor-- Washer is
overloaded. Do not overload washer. Stop washer and reduce load.
Thumping sound— Heavy wash loads may produce a
thumping sound. This is usually normal. If sound continues, washer is probably
out of balance. Stop washer and redistribute wash load.
• Washer is not resting firmly on floor. Move washer so it
rests firmly on floor. Adjust leveling legs. NOTE: Some shaking of the washer
is normal without moving across the floor. See INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS for
• Shipping bolts and foam blocks have not been removed
during installation. See INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS for removing shipping bolts
and foam blocks.
• Wash load unevenly distributed in drum. Stop washer and
rearrange wash load.
Please do rate the solution and revert for further assistance.
iots only 1 trick i know..taking that this is a piece of clothes..take the bottom front panel off..ane remove the tub to pump sump hose,,that will give you a 4 to 5 inch hole to work form..try and push what ever it is towards hole...onthejob
If you have removed the drive belt from the rear pulley and the inner spin basket does not spin freely, you either have a drum bearing seized up on you, or something binding between the spin basket (stainless steel tub) and the outer tub shell. First, you need to reach inside the wash tub with the washer empty. Place the palm of your hand at the 12 o'clock position and push straight up. There shouldn't be any play in the spin basket. If you can feel the basket wobble up and down, you have either a bearing problem, or a spin basket support (spider arm) broken on the back of the spin basket. If there is no play at all, you probably have something caught. Small articles of clothing can sometimes get pulled between the tubs and usually ends up around the support shaft in the rear. This will obstruct the basket from spinning freely and could eventually cause damage to the drive motor, spin basket and/or tub bearings. You can use the instructions for replacing a rear tub bearing that I have posted under my Tip and Tricks for instructions on how to disassemble and inspect the tub. The bearing may not be bad, but you still need to check to see if anything is binding the spin basket against the tub shell and inspect the spin basket supports. Unfortunately, you have to disassemble the washer to be able to inspect any of these items I mention. I hope this helps you.