Question about Roper FEP320 Electric Kitchen Range

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Oven unit I am trying to remove the oven unit. i have it pulled out and now I can not figure out how to disconnect the wires from the old unit.

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Usually, you just remove the small access panel and the wires are connected to a terminal block. You just loosen the snug screws and pull the wires out.

Posted on Nov 08, 2008

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1 Answer

JDS9860AAP Front e-burner does not light.


follow this instructions. God bless you
    • 1
      Unplug your unit and turn off the gas supply at the saddle valve near the unit.

    • 2
      Lift up the hood of the oven. If you have sealed burners, the lid will not lift up. Locate the ignitors near the burners of the unit. Clean any gunk away from the ignitor using a toothbrush. Test the unit.


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    • 3
      Pull the burner dials off the front of the unit if the ignitors won't work.

    • 4
      Remove the screws at the ends of the front cover, where the gas supply knobs are located, using a screwdriver, and remove the cover from the oven.

    • 5
      Slide the wires off the burner valve switches and pull them off the burner valve by sliding the switch forward. The switch will have wires attached to it. Loosen the screws holding down the wires of the burner valve. Pull out the wires carefully. Place the wires in a new switch. Slide the new switch onto the burner valve. Replace the knob, and turn on the gas supply and power. Ignite the burner.

    • 6
      Follow the switch wires into the oven if the new switch doesn't work. Locate the module box, which is usually 2 inches by 3 inches. Slide the wires out of the module terminal by pulling on the wire connectors. Remove the screws from the old module and pull the module out. Insert the wires into the new module, using the same wire orientation as before. Reassemble the oven. Turn on the electricity and gas, and turn on the burner.


Read more: http://www.ehow.com/how_7925141_repair-electronic-ignition-gas-stove.html#ixzz2ZPuc5nad

Jul 18, 2013 | Kitchen Ranges

1 Answer

We have a GE profile spectra (approx 8 years old), the oven lights with a boom the first use of the day. seems to light ok each time after. just started doing it a couple of days ago. any info would be...


Hello,
That sound very typical of a weak oven igniter. When its cold it takes so long to get to temp.it needs to be to ignite gas so gas collects in oven chamber before igniting then as its on it get hot a bit sooner. Eventually the igniter will weaken even more to the point will it will not ignite the gas at any time, replacing it now will prevent that. The part number for the igniter is WB13K21 it could be purchased at your local appliance parts store or online at;
searspartsdirect.com
repairclinic.com
apwagner.com
apdepot.com
midwestapplianceparts.com

To replace the igniter;
remove oven racks
remove oven door by locking hinges into place and lifting off of oven(if unable to figure how to lock hinges this step can be ommitted but it much easier with door out of the way)
remove oven floor
unscrew igniter from burner bar
disconnect wiring,which will be under storage drawer
pull out old igniter
run new igniter wiring down below to storage drawer area
screw igniter to burner bar
connect wiring
Test to see if works without booms when cold
reinstall oven floor
reinstall door
reinstall racks

I hope i have been able to help you fix your oven,
Gene

Aug 21, 2011 | GE Profile Spectra JGBP90 Gas Kitchen...

1 Answer

I HAVE A WHIRLPOOL ACCUBAKE RANGE, THE OVEN AND BROILER DOES NOT WORK. CHANGED SPARK MODULE AND STILL DOESN'T WORK. ANY SOLUTIONS?????


There are four other things to check on the oven, you will have to run a test on the broiler element, oven thermostat, selector switch and the oven cycling relay.
To test the broiler element, To access the broil element located on the roof of the oven cavity, first open the oven and remove the oven racks. Remove the screws that secure the element to the oven, remove the holding brackets from the element and slide the element forward.
There is normally a small amount of excess wiring attached to the terminals on the element that allow a little room for maneuverability (you may have to tilt the element to get the terminals through the holes). Look for loose or disconnected wires and if there is no sign of burning; reconnect the wiring to the back of the terminal. If a terminal end is damaged, replace it with a terminal end designed specifically for oven use only.
To test the broil element, remove the wires from the broil element terminals by removing the screws from the terminal or pulling the wires off the broil element terminal. Remember to label the wires for reinstallation.
Visually check the entire element for signs of burn.
Test the broiler element for continuity. Using the ohmmeter, set the range scale on R x 1 and place the probes on the element terminals. There should be continuity, with readings ranging from 19 to 115 ohms, however readings will vary from manufacturer to manufacturer and according to unit size and the wattage, be sure to check your manual for the manufacturer's specifications.
If there are any signs of element burning, or if there is no continuity, replace the element.
To test for a grounded broil element, place one probe on the element outer surface and the other on the element terminal as in the ground test for the baking element. If continuity exists, the element has shorted and should be replaced. Be sure to test both terminals.
To test a dual broil element, remove the wires from their terminals. Using the ohmmeter, set the range on R x 1. Place the probes on terminals A and C to check for continuity, followed by terminals B and C. To test for a grounded element, place one probe on the element outer surface. With the other probe, touch terminal A, followed by B and then C. If continuity exists, the element has shorted and should be replaced.
To install a new broil element, simply reverse the disassembly procedures and reassemble, being sure to follow the wiring diagram and install the wires to the correct terminals
To test the oven thermostat: Access the oven thermostat, which is located in different places depending on the make and model: On freestanding ranges, access the thermostat by removing the screws that hold the back panel in place at both ends. On models with front-loading controls, remove the panel and tilt it for access. Be careful not to let the wires disconnect from their components. Some built-in models have a removable backsplash. Lift the backsplash, rest it on the cook top and remove the screws from the backsplash, which holds the rear panel. On wall ovens or eye-level ranges, access the control panel by opening the door and removing the screws that secure it. The screws may be under the exhaust hood or below the control panel. If the control panel is hinged, simply tilt it towards you. On some models both the rear and front control panels must be removed. The screws may be found on the trim and occasionally the trim must be removed.
When testing the thermostat switch contacts for continuity, refer to the wiring diagram and remove only those wires being tested - and only one pair at a time. Test switch contact terminals as per your wiring diagram. If the switch lacks continuity at any of the contact terminal points then the entire thermostat switch needs to be replaced. Adjusting the thermostat: Test the oven temperature by placing the tester in the oven's center and leaving it for 30 minutes at 350 degrees. Record the minimum and maximum temperatures of three cycles, then add those figures together, divide the result by six and you have the oven's average temperature.
If the average temperature is more than 25 degrees off, try calibrating the thermostat by following your appliance manual instructions for thermostat calibration.
Normally, thermostats are calibrated by pulling the oven's thermostat knob off, turning the knob over and adjusting the calibration ring on the back. If your oven doesn't have a calibration ring you may need to replace the thermostat.
To remove the thermostat: Disconnect the capillary tube and push it through the back oven wall, being careful not to break the flammable capillary tube wire. Remove the screws that secure the thermostat to the control panel and gently pull the thermostat out, leaving the wires in place. To install a new thermostat, reverse the disassembly procedures (Step 7 above), transferring the wires individually from the old unit to the new.
To test the selector switch: In order to gain access to the oven selector dial, first move the range away from the wall and remove the back cover panel by undoing the retaining screws. This will expose the back of the oven selector dial. Note: There are many styles of ranges. If this does not describe your range, refer to your owner's manual for instructions on gaining access to your oven selector dial. Now you can begin to test each pair of switch contacts for continuity with your VOM. Using the ohmmeter function, set the range scale to R x 1, and touch one test lead to each terminal of the switch contacts to be tested. There will be several pairs of contacts, one pair for each setting (eg. broil, bake, etc.). Refer carefully to your wiring diagram (often placed on the inside of the access panel) when testing. It is a good idea to label the wires as you test and only remove one pair of wires at a time. If there is no continuity between any pair of contacts, the switch is defective and must be replaced. To install a new oven selector dial switch, remove the old switch from the control panel by undoing the nut or screws holding the switch in place, leaving all wires attached. Transfer the wires one at a time from the old switch to the correct terminal of the new switch. Check your wiring diagram to make sure all wires are on the correct terminals. Now mount the new switch to the back of the control panel and replace the cover.
To test the oven cycling relay: In order to gain access to the oven cycling relay, refer to your owner's manual. Removing the back panel of the range accesses most relays, but some ranges locate the relay under the oven compartment where the utility drawer is usually located. Now you can test the relay using your VOM. First, label each wire attached to the relay and remove them from the relay terminals. Using your VOM's ohmmeter function, set the range to R x 1 and touch one test lead to the terminal marked L and the other test lead to terminal H2. There should be NO continuity. Next, test the terminals marked H1 and H2. Again, there should be NO continuity. Finally, test the S and R terminals. Continuity should exist between these two terminals. If your relay does not pass all these tests, it is defective and should be replaced. To remove the relay, undo the two screws securing it to the range and replace with the correct new relay. Refer to your wiring diagram and labeled wires to ensure that the wires are on the correct terminals. Now replace the back panel or drawer and test the oven.
Hope this was helpful to you. Thanks for using fixya.

Jan 27, 2011 | Whirlpool Kitchen Ranges

1 Answer

The oven does not heat, the fan works but no heat. The amber panel light on the front doesn't come on either.


There is a faulty component inside the unit that is why it is not turning on. The power is working fine, because it is the power that operates the fan. Therefore the panel light that is not turning on is as a result of a bad component. In order to be sure what the faulty component is i will advice that you run a test on the oven, test the oven selector switch, to test the switch,
  1. There are many styles of ranges. If this does not describe your range, refer to your owner's manual for instructions on gaining access to your oven selector dial.
  2. Now you can begin to test each pair of switch contacts for continuity with your VOM. Using the ohmmeter function, set the range scale to R x 1, and touch one test lead to each terminal of the switch contacts to be tested.
  3. There will be several pairs of contacts, one pair for each setting (eg. broil, bake, etc.). Refer carefully to your wiring diagram (often placed on the inside of the access panel) when testing. It is a good idea to label the wires as you test and only remove one pair of wires at a time. If there is no continuity between any pair of contacts, the switch is defective and must be replaced.
To install a new oven selector dial switch,
  1. Remove the old switch from the control panel by undoing the nut or screws holding the switch in place, leaving all wires attached.
  2. Transfer the wires one at a time from the old switch to the correct terminal of the new switch.
  3. Check your wiring diagram to make sure all wires are on the correct terminals.
  4. Now mount the new switch to the back of the control panel and replace the cover.
Also you need to test the thermostat of the oven to be sure the problem is not from there,
  1. Access the oven thermostat, which is located in different places depending on the make and model: On freestanding ranges, access the thermostat by removing the screws that hold the back panel in place at both ends. On models with front-loading controls, remove the panel and tilt it for access. Be careful not to let the wires disconnect from their components. Some built-in models have a removable back splash. Lift the backsplash, rest it on the cook top and remove the screws from the back splash, which holds the rear panel. On wall ovens or eye-level ranges, access the control panel by opening the door and removing the screws that secure it. The screws may be under the exhaust hood or below the control panel. If the control panel is hinged, simply tilt it towards you. On some models both the rear and front control panels must be removed. The screws may be found on the trim and occasionally the trim must be removed.
  2. When testing the thermostat switch contacts for continuity, refer to the wiring diagram and remove only those wires being tested - and only one pair at a time. Test switch contact terminals as per your wiring diagram. If the switch lacks continuity at any of the contact terminal points then the entire thermostat switch needs to be replaced.
  3. Adjusting the thermostat: Test the oven temperature by placing the tester in the oven's center and leaving it for 30 minutes at 350 degrees. Record the minimum and maximum temperatures of three cycles, then add those figures together, divide the result by six and you have the oven's average temperature. If the average temperature is more than 25 degrees off, try calibrating the thermostat by following your appliance manual instructions for thermostat calibration.
  4. Normally, thermostats are calibrated by pulling the oven's thermostat knob off, turning the knob over and adjusting the calibration ring on the back. If your oven doesn't have a calibration ring you may need to replace the thermostat.
To replace the thermostat of the oven, please follow the steps below:
  1. Disconnect the capillary tube and push it through the back oven wall, being careful not to break the flammable capillary tube wire.
  2. Remove the screws that secure the thermostat to the control panel and gently pull the thermostat out, leaving the wires in place.
To install a new thermostat,
  1. Reverse the disassembly procedures,
  2. Transfer the wires individually from the old unit to the new.
Hope this helped. Thank you for using fixya.

Jan 21, 2011 | Explorer Appliances B196 ELECTRIC Kitchen...

1 Answer

How do you install WB62T10528 glass assembly-main top


After searching high and low, there was no solution out there on the internet...so i dug into it and figured it out. Be warned, this is a fairly long and difficult job to do. As with most GE appliances, they are not designed for easy DIY fixing.

A second pair of hands is pretty helpful with this project.

The main problem is knowing what bits to take apart without disassembling the whole oven; here is the best way I know after my 4 hour project was completed:

1. Pull out the range from the counter.
2. Remove the screw from each side on top/back of the unit just below the cooktop - silver in color.
3. Remove the handles and plastic rings from the control face plate, carefully unplug the wiring harness and set faceplate aside.
4. Open oven door, in upper front section you will see 5 screws that hold the control panel on - remove.
5. Remove the steel control panel housing plate from the range - 4 screws.
6. Now the difficult part; you need to unfasten the cooktop assembly from the range - a number of screws will be visible behind the wiring that goes to the housing plate(7 I believe) remove these carefully. You may elect to disconnect all the wiring, but I chose not to.
7. Now you should be able to slide/lift off the cook top, you will need to unplug the wiring harness to lift it completely off.
8. Place the old(broken, most likely) cooktop upside down on the floor or counter with the new one next to it -- best to put a towel underneath the new one.
9. Remove all burner assemblies from the old one, and transfer to new one and secure with screws and brackets. As all burners are tied together this is easiest with 2 people.
10. Reassemble in reverse order.

Good luck.

Aug 31, 2010 | GE Profile JS968SFSS Electric Kitchen...

1 Answer

How do i change the lower heating element in my oven?


74004107 - ELEMENT, BAKE (LOWER)
disconnect unit from power.
remove screws from lower element.
slide old element straight back slowly towards you so the wires follow it through the holes.
as you disconnect the wires from the old element either give them a bit of a bend so they do not slide back through the hole and get lost or immediately hook them onto the new element that you could sit below the old element for transferal of wires.
make sure wires are attached securely and reinstall.
hope this helps,
best of luck,
ttfn

Oct 25, 2009 | Maytag MER6772 Gemini Electric Kitchen...

1 Answer

Oven not about 100 deg. below temperature setting


It's easier to eliminate the element.You can do this two ways;first thing,remove power from unit.Unplug it and you know for sure power is off.Inside the oven you can get to the wiring on element by removing the two screws on the back wall that holds the bracket to the wall.(this works for both elements)Pull the element out and you will see the wires(2).They will be either screwed on or connected with spade clips which pull on/off.Remove at least one wire and use your meter,set on ohms, put a meter lead on each element connector,you should read continuity.If you don't the element is bad,replace it.Give the elements a good visual inspection first,some times you can see where the element burnt out.The other way to get to the wiring by pulling the back panel off the stove.Hope this helps. Gregg

May 29, 2009 | Kenmore Kitchen Ranges

1 Answer

Hello, I have a Frigidaire freestanding crown series gas range that has two problems. The most important being that the oven does not light. The stovetop lights, except one burner that you hav to light...


I figured it was the ignitor given the burners work fine and I could smell gas from the oven when I would try to turn it on. So I found a local parts store and bought the replacement ignitor. I cut the wires of the old ignitor close to the ceramic and spliced the new one on with porcelain nuts and voila my oven now works again!

Nov 18, 2008 | Frigidaire Kitchen Ranges

3 Answers

Rangemaster 110 gas model


I have downloaded the users guide from rangemaster.co.uk which has details of how to change parts & a wiring diagram, Hope this helps. Here is a section..............

5. To Remove Clock
Disconnect from electricity supply.
Remove the Control Panel (See 2). Pull off the timer
control button(s).
Remove the timer/mounting bracket assembly from the
control panel by removing the fi xing screws.
Remove the timer from its mounting bracket by
depressing the plastic lugs on the timer case, at the
same time pulling the unit forward.
Reassemble in reverse order. When replacing leads
refer to the wiring diagram. Check operation of timer.
BEFORE SERVICING ANY GAS CARRYING
COMPONENTS TURN OFF GAS SUPPLY.

Sep 07, 2008 | Rangemaster 110 (Gas) Kitchen Range

1 Answer

2001 Gemini electric double oven


you can remove them from the inside.after you remove two screws.(one from each side of the element) pull it out slowly so that you dont disconnect wires from the element. if wires disconnect then you have to pull ou the oven and unscrew back panel to reattach the after you install the new element.

Feb 15, 2008 | Maytag MER6772 Gemini Electric Kitchen...

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