Question about LG WM3677HW 3.7 cu.ft. Front Load Washer and Dryer

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Heating, draining water(enough?) but not drying clothes, they're just HOT, so is top of machine

I REALLY love my combo unit, but now seems the dryer is just boiling my clothes instead of drying them. There is water coming from the drain hose, but i dont see any collecting in the little detergent cup like i normally do after drying is done. we cleaned out the drain filter like in the owners manual(at bottom of machine, left). The top of the dryer is so HOT you can barely touch it and the clothes are not dry, just very HOT. Please help if you can. Thanks so much. Marcie

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  • melissadonat Jan 22, 2009



    I too have the same problem...could you please tell me step by step how to clean out the condensing duct?

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You have a problem with the condensing duct.  Possibly clogged with excess and lint and needs to be cleaned out.  This requires disassembly of the unit to get to it.  Not a difficult job but not easy.

Posted on Apr 28, 2008

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Forgot how to use


Doing a Load of Wash for Portable/ Kitchen Faucet
1) Make sure machine is set to Cold/Cold and never use Hot/Cold button (Hot/Cold is only for permanent hook-ups). Connect water hose to kitchen faucet. Turn on water to temperature of choice.

2) Load machine half to three-fourths full of clothes. (only half full is recommended if you intend to use the dry cycle right after the wash cycle. For half loads, push in the half-load button. )

3) Add detergent and fabric softener:
a. Liquid detergent into 2nd slot: only 1 tablespoon, 2 tablespoons maximum
b. Fabric softener into 3rd slot. this really helps in preventing wrinkles
(****NOTE: THE MOST COMMON AND MOST DAMAGING ERROR IN THE USE OF FRONT-LOADING MACHINES IS OVERSOAPING. oversoaping causes - pump failure, drain failure, etc. - none of
which are covered by the warranty. The only reason top
loaders use so much soap is because they use so much water and this dilutes the soap. Also, always use detergents that have an HE -- High Efficiency -- rating.)

4) Select Wash Cycle
Permanent Press is likely to be fine (32 minutes) as the USA has softer water than in Europe for which machine was originally designed. Hard water, as in Europe, means it requires more detergent and more washing motion than in the USA. Prewash and/or Superwash (53 minutes) might be preferred for dirtier clothes.

5) Select Spin Cycle
600 should be fine. A higher cycle means dryer clothes, perhaps more wrinkles, and certainly more noise. (Malber USA suggests 800-900 as the norm).

6) Make sure Spin cycle has cold water.
Faucet should be changed to cold water AFTER the initial fill even if you are not drying - all rinses should be in cold water for more complete removal of soap residue

If you use Dry Cycle
7) Select time for desired dry cycle. Make sure to change the faucet to cold water. If you do not want to use Dry cycle, select 0 minutes. Otherwise, use 120 minutes the first time until you can gauge what types of loads require how much drying time. Here's how the Dryer works: A heating element inside the washer heats up the load. During the dry cycle, as the cold water from the faucet circulates into the machine (in tubes, not mixed in with the load), it cools the steam and condenses it into liquid water which is pumped out.

After Wash & Dry
8) It takes approximately 90 seconds after the cycles are completely done before it allows you to open the door. Malber USA says it is due to safety requirement of UL. Who knows what UL security feature is for. Perhaps extra time to finish draining.

9) door slightly ajar to let the machine dry out. I have read postings that say the machine becomes smelly with mildew if you do not. Malber USA says this is true for all horizontal axis (front-loading) washers.


Most common complaints
1) Using too much detergent.
Front loader machines do not need so much water, and thus not so much detergent. Also USA water is softer than European water, for which the machine was originally designed, and that may explain why the detergent compartment is so big to hold more detergent. Soft water is easier to get suds. Damage is caused by suds. Suds migrate up the hot air duct during wash cycle and come to rest on the heating element. After repeated occurrences, suds (which are corrosive) will cause rusting and eventual failure of the heating element.

2) Dryer does not work, for several main reasons:
(thanks to Malber USA for points a and b)

a) the system may have overheated, tripping the safety thermal switch. This switch is located under the top of the machine and can be easily fixed by the consumer.

b) broken working thermostat. It is a relatively inexpensive repair to remove and replace this part and takes only about 10 minutes. It can be done by the consumer but it
is recommended that a qualified tech do the job.

c) Machine is too full and/or fabrics are too heavy.
Even though you can wash a maximum load of 11 lbs. of clothes, the manual suggests to dry no more than 7 lbs. of cotton clothes and 5 lbs. of heavy or extra large fabrics. Thats because the dryer works by heating up the clothes and then condensing the steam from the circulating air into liquid water which is pumped out. If the machine is filled too much or if the fabrics are too dense (e.g., jeans), the system cannot condense enough water and the clothes remain humid. Perhaps a second 2 hour dry cycle could work, but who wants to dry clothes for 4 hours.

d) Broken heating element
Seems that the heating element breaks after 2-3 years and needs to be replaced. And why is that? Most common reason for heating element failure is oversoaping. Suds migrate up the hot air duct during wash cycle and come to rest on the heating element. After repeated occurrences, suds (which are corrosive) will cause rusting and eventual failure of the heating element. But many people simply choose to not use the dryer rather than have it fixed.
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