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sounds like you have a faulty box. or no power going to it. If the power button on the unit isn't turning it on or off then its your unit. if button on your unit is working then you will need a new remote. To purchase a new one try Replacement Remotes.
E1 is a 100 uF 16 VDC capacitor. I have been repairing these units lately and have experienced some of the same symptoms (LED goes red but doesn't transition to green after 30 seconds like it should). I have been able to repair some of these units. Make sure the power supply is working properly before spending significant time on the D2A board. The power supply is responsible for supplying 12, 5, and 3.3 VDC to the D2A board. A defective PS will measure 14.5 instead of 12, 6 instead of 5, and 2.9 instead of 3.3. The AC ripple should be about 5 mV on the 3.3 and the 5 volt supplies when loaded. The 12 volt can be as high as 50 mV on a good PS. The culprits are C12 (1000uf) and C10 (470 uf) which are the filter capacitors for the 3.3 and 5V outputs respectively. C12, the capacitor for the 3.3 V output is especially critical because it is used to feed the voltage regulator and overvoltage shutdown circuit. D7 is a hot part and can also fail sometimes. I have repaired 50% of my units just by changing these capacitors. I still have units where the D2A board is bad with a known good power supply. If anyone has more info on the D2A (like a schematic) please pass it along
there could be the following reasons.
If there is the red light on indicating the power reaching the TV then your power supply unit may be faulty. Open the back cover and look where the power cord goes and meet the components inside and it would also have a transformer like thing on it. This is the PSU module. If any of the capacitors is bulged or burst then that needs replacing with one of exactly the same specifications. Do that.
Second is that there is no indication of the power reaching the TV. In that case check the plug and the wall socket and also the power on switch on the TV. Whatever is faulty should be replaced.
Hi - The red light indicates the VHS is Macrovision copy protected, so the ADVC55 is refusing to import it.
There is a sort of "secret" workaround for this that most people who own the old Canopus products know, and which Canopus also knew, supported, and had posted on their forums (unfortunately deleted by the new owner who seems to be unclear on copyright law).
Remember, it is LEGAL to make ONE (but ONLY one) copy of any copyrighted material for your personal use for backup purposes. In other words, if you do this, you can record the movie into your computer and store it there, or burn it to a DVD (after which you must erase the copy on your computer), but that's all! You cannot make another copy for anyone else - not even yourself - without violating copyright law.
That said, here are the two procedures that usually work, easiest first:
1) When you first turn the Canopus on, hold the select button down for roughly twenty seconds. Now the system should ignore any copy protection until you turn the unit off.
2) (if 1 doesn't work:)
1. Put all dip switches OFF (unless you have a PAL system).
2. Hook up the firewire cable from the unit to the PC while ensuring that both units are OFF (this is what the instructions say to do, because you can cause a damaging power surge otherwise).
3. Turn on the power to the DVD player, PC and ADVC-100.
4. Set capture on your PC (your software) to Manual.
5. Start the DVD.
6. The ANALOG IN LCD of the unit will light, and if the DVD is Macrovision protected, the red STATUS light will stay on for about 18 seconds, turn off for about three seconds, and then repeat the process (or may remain red longer on some units).
7. Depress and HOLD the INPUT SELECT silver button. The DIGITAL IN LCD will light up temporarily then turn off. Keep this button depressed until the red STATUS light stays off completely (about 15 seconds).
8. Release the INPUT SELECT BUTTON and press it briefly one more time until the ANALOG IN button lights up.
9. Macrovision is now bypassed!
Again, once you turn the ADVC55 off (which you must - if it stays on for long periods it can overheat and malfunction), you'll have to go through the Macrovision bypass procedure again next time you turn it on.
Good luck, and I hope this works for you as it did for me with my Canopus!
20 minutes after posting the same problem.... I figured it out, ahah... So one case is that you turned off your unit before the firmware update was ready (caused internal damage to your unit) so you might have to send it back. However, what I did was I uninstalled the firestudio cd/driver w/e the heck it is that came with it and then installed it again. That way the universal driver deals with the software for the firestudio the way it should. After doing that and restarting it, simply turn on your unit and it should be red for a few seconds (i thought i was still screwed) but then it turnes blue and syncs... so try that... i might just work.
Hi my name is Roety,
I can help you with your issue ,
Either power supply capacitors or a bad fan on the TV .
If I have helped you with your issue please click accept.
If you have more questions you can still respond until this post expires,
I will reply asap
Mine dead stopped turning on one day and I found the solution. You will
need a appropriate sized phillips scredriver, a head lamp or LED
keychain that you can aim from your mouth, a slim flat head screwdriver,
and some skinny needle nosed pliers.
-- unplug it.
-- Unscrew/remove the right side panel, on the side of the AC connector
(I don't advise opening the entire box as it was a bit hard for me to
get back together)
-- fire up your light source, you'll need it!
-- *looking at the now open unit form the open side* you will see the
green mainboard horizontally across the bottom.
-- *key in on the near right corner next to the small clear tube fuse*
-- the part that is having problems is the wire lead that has a small
white vertical plastic connector, (near right corner next to the fuse)
(it will probably have a white "tab" coming from the connector that is
slightly out of place)
-- take the needle nose pliers, gently grasping the plastic connector on
the wire side, and disconnect the wires from the mainboard connector.
(may help to use the slim flat head driver to help dislodge this).
-- once it is disconnected, use the slim phillips to realign that white
"connector tab" and slowly (making sure to not bend the pins) re-connect
that wire piece with the mainboard connector.
Plug the power in and try flipping it on. Hopefully this fixes it for
you. I have had to do this about every 6 months over this last year, but
its cheaper than buying a new card!