Question about GE AJCQ08ACB Air Conditioner

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After running awhile ac blows warm and theres no water in evap tray.

Installed new condensing unit, and just had a new evap core installed,worked great for three weeks, now blows warm. When you turn off system for a few hours and restart it it works ok for awhile then blows warm.had ac tech come out and of coarse it worked good,he said pressures are good and freon ok,evap core temp was 22 degrees when he removed the cabinet cover, I thought maybe it was freezing up, but there is no water or condensation in drain pan or on evap core. thanks Funtz

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Re: after running awhile ac blows warm and theres no water in evap tray. - GE AJCQ08ACB Air Conditioner Air Conditioners

Steam comming out of airconditioner

Posted on Jul 17, 2008

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Re: after running awhile ac blows warm and theres no...

I have the same unit and live in a "historic" building. If it's hooked up to a power line with a breaker, or any power bar it will eventually turn off the condenser and flash. Check if yours does this flashing might need a fatter power cord going directly to the socket.

Posted on Sep 07, 2007

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Re: after running awhile ac blows warm and theres no...

Sounds to me like you may have a faulty compressor. It may need to be replaced. Yes it could have a restriction too. There is a way to break open the system and flush it out and add freon again.

Posted on Aug 08, 2007

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Re: after running awhile ac blows warm and theres no...

Hi, Sounds like you have a leak in the lines somewhere and it is low on refrigerant (Freon). If the evaporator spends very much time below 32deg it will freeze up and you will feel very little air coming from the vents. The evaporator will have ice covering at least part of it depending on how much refrigerant is has in it. No refrigerant, there will be no ice or water. If the unit is properly charged, the larger of the two refrigerant lines at the condensing unit will sweat all the way back to the compressor but the compressor should be fairly dry. Restricted air flow will also cause one to freeze so check your air filter. If the ac tech thinks that the evap temp was ok at 22 deg, find another ac tech. 22 deg evap means its either too low on Freon, refrigerant filter drier is stopped up, a blockage in the refrigerant lines, too little air flow across evap coil or it could be that the evap and cond are sized wrong. The evap temp has to be above 32 deg. If it has Freon in it, you can use soap bubbles to check for leaks at the solder joints. Turn the unit off first for pressures to equalize. Let me know. kstfas

Posted on Oct 23, 2006

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SOURCE: GE Portable Airconditioner - Model APN10AA Serial # GG509122

Ours was leaking water. After taking the covers off,cleaning it,and draining all the water out, I started getting the same problem with the light coming on every 7 minutes. I actually added some water to the system till it was too full and then drained it out through the plug. The light still came on every 7 minutes until I turned the unit off and then unplugged it for a few minutes. I plugged it back in, turned it on and reset the temperature. It seemed to reset itself and kept running normally. BB

Posted on Aug 12, 2007

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SOURCE: Air condioner climbs to 86 degrees

First check your coil behind the filter. If this coil iss clogged the unit will over heat and cause the compressor to shut down. It sounds as if either the evaporator coil (inside) or the condensor coil (outside) may be clogged. If the unit is icing up on the inner coil then that coil is clogged or low on freon. I would think it would be cloggged instead of freon problem. To clean this coil you can go to the hardware store and buy a can of coil cleaner and use it following the directions The outer coil you would have to remove a/c from sleeve and take the unit outside. Using a water house flush the condensor coil from the outside in to remove debris.. These coils should look like a brand new car radiator when you finished cleaning. Reinsert the a/c back into wall sleeve after letting the water evaporate from the unit as to not spill water through out the area. Good Luck


Posted on Aug 26, 2009

Daniel S
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SOURCE: Model ASH 06LLs1 Serial # GR29518 2 years old.


The issue with your Air Conditioner can also be due to thermostat failure or due to a blown fuse. The thermostat is connected to the compressor. It won't cool if thermostat is bad.
The usual terminals on thermostat are--

  • G – Fan, usually a green wire
  • R – 24 VAC usually a red wire (Rc an Rh are discussed later)
  • C – 24 VAC Common
  • Y – Compressor, usually a yellow wire
  • W – Heat, usually a white wire
Check the wiring and pins of the thermostat, it is located next to the compressor. In case thermostat is fine then you can suspect that compressor is bad. Usually a compressor has warranty of 5-6 years. However, you cannot repair/replace the compressor, as a license is needed for compressor repairs. I would suggest you to contact GE service for this--

Ge service & support

Hope this helps... If it does please do not forget to accept the solution or post back for assistance.


Posted on Sep 04, 2010

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We have RUUD AC, in second floor , that has a white pvc ope connected to condensate drain. other end of this pipe is inerted into large pipe neanr wall. looks a drain outlet. In the middle of this white...

Hello, W/D here.

There are a couple of things you need to check:
Look at where the drain connects to the A/C unit. There should be another pvc line right next to where the drain connects. This is the clean out/flush line, and is used for adding algeside to the tray internally, which thens go out the drain. Most importantly, there is a 1/8" hole between them, and usually, it's very hard to see. Make sure that this hole is open. If it is plugged, the condensate cannot drain from the unit while the unit is running and will create havoc with your drain system. The 'tee in the drain line is an air vent/vacuum breaker and can be used for a cleanout, but try the little vent hole trick first. Your drain line from the unit should be sloped to your house drain. If you do not have a clean out connection at your unit, then you can clean from the tee to the wall. Put one cup of white vinegar into the tee. It will work as well as bleach, without the corrosiveness of the bleach. If you have a cleanout on the unit, put the vinegar in there, and restart the unit, as the vinegar needs to get flushed by the condensate.
Your tray is designed to catch any leakage, and should drain to the outside. Look for your drain line and clear it. Tray drains generally plug at the ends, and not usually in the middle. You can clean the pan drain with a piece of stiff wire. I like to use electrical solid core wire, #12. Pass it dowh the drain from the pan, and back up the drain from the outside. Chase it with water. Usually the pluggage is either insulation, or dirt dobbers.
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Hello Cheryl, what they are talking about is a drain. As air conditioners run they collect moisture from the air on the evap(in cooling mode) or condenser ( in heat mode). This moisture will run off the part and flow into the tray. In the cooling mode, the moisture is slung onto the condenser to help cool it down, thus be more effective. I always recommend once a year remove the unit and clean all the coils and oil the fan motor. Household oil will work for this. During this cleaning find and clean out the drain. If it gets clogged that water can run back into the home. The PC pipe is sometimes attached to the unit to direct the water to a designated place. These units are common in hotels and they use the pipe to keep the water from dripping on the guest as they walk under the windows. Hope this helps.

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