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Re: Residential AC Carrier
If you have never done this before or have limited experience, let a qualified tech do it for you. It's worth the money and safety. If you have a set of gages and some experience, let me know and we can contunue. It's not too hard but some what dangerous. Think about it.
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You need good airflow across the indoor coil, the evaporator. Air warms the refrigerant. If there is no airflow, the refrigerant will come back out freezing cold (in liquid form) and can damage the compressor valves. Before charging any ac unit, good airflow must be checked for across both evaporator and condensor.
Too much, overcharging will cause freezing all the way back to the compressor in a capilary tube type of ac.
Where is it the refrigeration lines are freezing cold?
Yes if they match up correctly. I would stay away from Ruud though. Best off with Carrier or Trane in my opinion. Also, if your spending the money to replace the condenser, you should spend the extra bit and replace the air handler as well. New systems use a new refrigerant that is more cost effective and better for the environment.
There is a 3 or 5 amp fuse on the control board inside the air handler. Disconnect power to the air handler,locate the fuse and replace it with a good fuse. The fuse is the same type used in automobiles. You can purchase them at a auto parts store. After replacing and turning on the power there will be a 5 minute delay before the board and thermostat energize. After 5 minutes set the thermostat for you heat or ac function. If the new fuse blows a complete diagnostic must be done to the system.
It sounds undercharged (needs more refrigerant). Based on the conditions in your post and assuming the indoor humidity is within 20-70% range, your target superheat should be 10degF. Your superheat (assuming you have an R22 system) is far too high. The pressures are not indicating a restriction; therefore, I have to conclude you have a low charge. A low charge will cause a gurgling sound due to the refrigerant in the liquid line is vaporizing prior to reaching the Cap tube at the Air Handler.
I hope you find this information helpful to you moving forward. :-)
It's possible. On the air handler the red post on the circuit board always has voltage and should go to the thermostat. If for some reason it was hooked to one of the wires to the condensor it would have ran all the time.
This may be a bigger issue than you want to tackle alone, generally speaking the coil will have to be ordered from a dealer, as most wholesalers will not sell to the general public. Further, this will require brazing the new coil in, evacuating the system, installing a dryer and recharging.