Question about Rangemaster 110 (Dual Fuel) Dual Fuel (Electric and Gas) Kitchen Range

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Rangemaster 110 replace clock how do you remove the electric hot plate on the right of hob to get to the retaining screws of the faceplate

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It is not at all obvious.
from memory, there are 2 screws on the lhs side of the plate which remove and the plate will then move sideways but may be difficult to shift

Posted on Nov 26, 2008

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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http://www.ukwhitegoods.co.uk/forumsphpbb3/removing-hob-rangemaster-110-t23376.html

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I have a 4 year old range master classic 110 Tonight both ovens stopped working and the clock does not work also. However the grill works and the hob works.... Any idea as to the problem? I have checked...


Hello Jeff,

it seems to me a problem with the timerfunction of the clock.
Clocks are the most source of problems, so when I refurbish a cooker and the timer does not work properly, I shortcut the timer as new clocks are very expensive.
In that case, the clock itself stays working.
For doing this, you need to lift the hob.

BE CAREFULLY, AND BE SURE THERE IS NO TENSION ON THE COOKER

I hope this will help you and I wish you a good weekend and a nice meal with your friends. Dik

Jul 20, 2017 | Rangemaster Classic 110 (Dual Fuel) Dual...

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I just need to know how to switch the oven on, i have turned oven hobs to 180 and nothing is happening...what else do i need to press????


The clock must be set to the time of day before the righthand
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1 Answer

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i used the solution above worked great as i never used the clock anway . but instead of removing the whole hob i simply un screwed the front panel 5 scews. pulled the front panel out about an inch and used a pair of long nose pliers to remove the blue wires cliped them together. then just screwed the panel back took about 5 mins.

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3 Answers

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I have downloaded the users guide from rangemaster.co.uk which has details of how to change parts & a wiring diagram, Hope this helps. Here is a section..............

5. To Remove Clock
Disconnect from electricity supply.
Remove the Control Panel (See 2). Pull off the timer
control button(s).
Remove the timer/mounting bracket assembly from the
control panel by removing the fi xing screws.
Remove the timer from its mounting bracket by
depressing the plastic lugs on the timer case, at the
same time pulling the unit forward.
Reassemble in reverse order. When replacing leads
refer to the wiring diagram. Check operation of timer.
BEFORE SERVICING ANY GAS CARRYING
COMPONENTS TURN OFF GAS SUPPLY.

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1 Answer

Oven will not ignite


Rangemaster 110. Ovens not lighting due to faulty auto/clock. FIXED!
Someone, somewhere on the internet had the solution to my problem but I can't find the link again to thank them! If you don't mind losing the clock/timer auto function this is for you and it's free! Just takes a bit of time.
Basically you need to lift/open up the LH &RH hobs to get at the wires behind the clock. You should see 2 blue(neutral) wires coming directly from the back of the clock. Pull them out and connect together - should be easy to click them together. Then the ovens will light - but you will lose the auto/clock/timer functions. We only used the timer so not a big issue. We didn't take the control panel off but we did take ages to unscrew the hobs etc Probably took us about 2 hours going back to instruction manual we found on internet and trying to work it out but I think we've saved a lot in not replacing the unit with the usual call out charges. We made sure electrical supply was switched off and just took our time. Really chuffed!
Comment by tinling, posted on Nov 06, 2008 http://www.rangemaster.co.uk/Siteimages/Site_311/BigMedia/RM110Gas_04_06.pdf

This should allow you to see the instruction manual for the 110. There was another one somewhere showing a diagram of how to link the 2 blue wires at the back of the clock but I can't find it again! By the way our cooker is 10 years old so maybe different from newer models. We didn't have to take of the front control panel we accessed everything by lifting up the hobs to get behind the clock/timer.

Hope this helps! Ovens still working just got to go and buy a wee timer.

Jul 11, 2008 | Rangemaster 110 (Dual Fuel) Dual Fuel...

5 Answers

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Hope this helps with your dual fuel version 3 weeks on and working perfectly! Rangemaster 110. Ovens not lighting due to faulty auto/clock. FIXED! Our clock /timer kept flashing and would not reset
Someone, somewhere on the internet had the solution to my problem but I can't find the link again to thank them! If you don't mind losing the clock/timer auto function this is for you and it's free! Just takes a bit of time.
Basically you need to lift/open up the LH &RH hobs to get at the wires behind the clock. You should see 2 blue(neutral) wires coming directly from the back of the clock. Pull them out and connect together - should be easy to click them together. Then the ovens will light - but you will lose the auto/clock/timer functions. We only used the timer so not a big issue. We didn't take the control panel off but we did take ages to unscrew the hobs etc Probably took us about 2 hours going back to instruction manual we found on internet and trying to work it out but I think we've saved a lot in not replacing the unit with the usual call out charges. We made sure electrical supply was switched off and just took our time. Really chuffed!
Comment by tinling, posted on Nov 06, 2008 http://www.rangemaster.co.uk/Siteimages/Site_311/BigMedia/RM110Gas_04_06.pdf

This should allow you to see the instruction manual for the 110. There was another one somewhere showing a diagram of how to link the 2 blue wires at the back of the clock but I can't find it again! By the way our cooker is 10 years old so maybe different from newer models. We didn't have to take of the front control panel we accessed everything by lifting up the hobs to get behind the clock/timer.

Hope this helps! Ovens still working just got to go and buy a wee timer.

Apr 05, 2008 | Rangemaster 110 (Dual Fuel) Dual Fuel...

3 Answers

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We have the same problem on a Rangemaster Toledo 110. It is not a fuse.
The 'Hot' light still comes on because that is a different (parallel) circuit.
Examination by a competent electrician has found that the soldering for the wires that power the warming metal strip under the glass is faulty. You will have to ask for a replacement part.
There may be a design flaw, so you might want to enquire about the professional all gas burner top and just use the griddle as a warming plate over the second wok burner.

Good luck.

Jan 20, 2008 | Rangemaster Classic 110 (Dual Fuel) Dual...

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