Question about Kenmore 74212 Gas Dryer

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High limmit cut off sensor Kenmore Gas Dryer

I purchased a high limit temperature cut off sensor installed it and used for four times the unit is bad again. Is there any other sensor or capillary tub type of sensor that could be used in this application? My sensor is located on the burner outlet tube mounted about ¾? above the tube with a hole in the tube below the sensor. The dryer reaches a temperature of 120degrees FH and drops down to 107 degrees FH before the burner comes on. When the high sensor is by passed the temperature drops to 120 degrees and shuts off at 158 degrees. This is the second sensor I have installed in the last three weeks getting tired of messing with inferior parts.

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This sensor on gas dryers is intended to protect you from catching your clothes or lint on fire if you have air flow that is too low. The fact it keeps going off likely means you have a problem in the airflow either INSIDE the dryer (filter, blower wheel or piping) or in the venting outside the dryer.

If not inside the dryer you may have a kink in the hose as you push the dryer to the wall, the vent that travels in or through the wall is clogged with lint, debris, birds nests, etc, or you have a cap or screen at the end of the pipe on the outside wall or on the roof which is not opening or is clogged.

The easiest test for this is to be sure the problem is not inside the dryer and then route the disconnected vent pipe from the rear of the dryer through the nearest window for a few days to eliminate the house piping as a problem. Good luck

Posted on Aug 31, 2009

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If you change the HL thermostat then u should change the operating thermostat and or thermal fuse hope that helps

Posted on Mar 21, 2007

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1 Answer

My Bush dryer is not heating up


The dryer Thermostat may have blown.
There are a couple of them:
The high limit thermostat is a safety device mounted on the heating chamber and is designed to prevent the dryer from overheating when the exhaust vent is restricted. A restricted vent will cause the high limit thermostat to trip or activate, interrupting the circuit to the heating element or gas valve. The high limit thermostat is not designed to activate repeatedly like a cycling thermostat and will eventually fail causing a no heat symptom. Disconnect the power to the dryer and check the thermostat for continuity with a multi-meter. If there is no continuity then it will need to be replaced and the restricted vent system corrected as well.
OR:
Cycling thermostats control the temperature inside the dryer drum. They are designed to "cycle" the heating element on and off to maintain the correct amount of heat. Cycling thermostats are normally located on the blower housing or elsewhere in the internal airflow ducting. Over time, the cycling thermostat can become defective. Disconnect the power to the dryer and check the thermostat for continuity with a multi-meter.

IT MAY ALSO BE THE TEMPERATURE SENSOR.
Temperature sensors are devices that change resistance depending on the temperature. The internal temperature of gas and electric dryers is managed by cycling thermostats on most dryers and by temperature sensors on some electronic controlled dryers. Depending on the dryer it may use multiple sensors to regulate the temperature. You can use a multi-meter to check the resistance of the temperature sensor. You will need to know what that resistance is at room temperature to verify if it is defective. This test should only be done when the power has been disconnected.
IF I HAD TO GUESS, I would bet it's one of the thermostats and I would start with checking these first.
Be aware that it could be many things that cause a dryer to not heat up such as the sensors named above or the timer could be faulty or the heating element itself is bad if it is an electric dryer, or if it's a gas model the ignitor or glow bar may be bad. But again I would start with checking the "fuses / thermostats" first.

Dec 01, 2013 | Dryers

1 Answer

Non Glowing Igniter


What solenoids are you referring to?

When you set the timer and heat selector switches on your dryer and press the button [switch] to turn it on, the direction of 120VAC passes through the heat selector switch through the timer switch through the cycling thermostat through the hi-limit switch, through the thermal cut-off fuse to the burner assembly's gas valve.

Simultaneously, as the current is traveling through a path to the 1st gas valve coil, current is also traveling through a path to the flame sensor- and then to the igniter.

The igniter will begin to glow and when it gets hot enough, the flame sensor will detect the heat and switch off. which then diverts current to the second gas valve coils.

The second gas valve coils activate plungers in the gas valve which allows gas to flow out into the burner housing. The igniter still being hot, ignites the gas to a long blue flame.

To maintain the proper air temperature, the heat in the blower housing is monitored by the cycling thermostat. During normal operation, air temperature should be between 120 degrees Fahrenheit and 160 degrees Fahrenheit.

When the air reaches the proper temperature specific to your dryer model, the cycling thermostat will switch off the voltage to the burner assembly.

The hi-limit thermostat and thermal cut-off fuse monitor the drum air temperature. If there is an air flow problem [restriction or total blockage], the hi-limit thermostat may switch off the voltage to prevent damage to the dryer.

Eventually, if the air flow problem [restriction or total blockage] is not corrected, the thermal cut-off fuse will fail (blow) and the dryer won't heat at all.

Check continuity to the following components, thermal cut-off fuse, hi-limit thermostat, igniter, flame sensor, and cycling thermostat. Of course you will take your readings with the power cord of the dryer unplugged from the wall outlet.

You will either disconnect [isolate] any of the wire leads going to their respective components during the test [using a multimeter (analog or digital)]; OR remove each of the components entirely from the dryer to test them.

1.) A good thermal cut-off fuse will have 0 Ohms of resistance. On the other hand, if the needle [on a an analog tester] does not move OR the digital display [on a digital meter] has not changed significantly, there is NO continuity - which means the fuse has burned out and needs to be replaced

2.) A dryer's Hi-Limit Thermostat is activated by hi-temperature changes (between 250 degrees Fahrenheit and 300 degrees Fahrenheit.

A good hi-limit thermostat will have 0 Ohms of resistance at room temperature.

To test the thermostat's response to temperature change, place the component on an electric griddle or skillet. Set the heat on the skillet or griddle to the appropriate temperature according to the temperature rating stamped on the hi-limit thermostat you are testing. If the hi-limit thermostat switches off within 5% of that temperature, the part is functioning properly. However, if the hi-limit thermostat does not switch off OR switches off prematurely, the hi-limit thermostat is faulty and will have to be replaced. [Remember, when the switch turns off at the appropriate temperature level- you should get a high resistance reading to show that the circuit is "open")

3.) Perform the same procedure as step 2 to test the Cycling Thermostat: First at room temperature and then its response to temperature change. The only difference is, the test temperature range will be somewhere between 120-160 degrees Fahrenheit Once again, refer to the temperature rating stamped on the component you are testing- and the 5% tolerance remains the same, too.

4.) The resistance reading for the igniter is between 50 and 400 Ohms of resistance; anything else, it's faulty- toss it and replace it.

5.) You should get a resistance reading of 0 Ohms at the flame sensor-

Flame sensors are tricky though. Flame sensors could still short out and
allow the igniter to glow- but would prevent voltage from reaching the gas coil. For example, the igniter will glow and not turn off and a flame will not be established because there was no voltage at the gas coil to open up and release gas for ignition.

Hope this info helps...I would appreciate a follow-up from you when you resolve this problem- to gain more knowledge and skill.

Thank-you and best wishes on your project

Jul 15, 2013 | Whirlpool LGR3624JQ Gas Dryer

1 Answer

Gas dryer is not drying the clothes


it can be the ignitor as described above,or the gas valve coils on the gas valve getting weak or gone completely,or even the high limit thermostat on the burner housing open and also the flame sensor next to the high limit but these rarely go bad,the thermal fuse can be bad but on these if this goes out the whole unit quits and it sounds as though it still turns just no heat

Apr 21, 2013 | GE Profile Harmony DPGT750GC Gas Dryer

2 Answers

Dryer is running, but heat will not turn on


There are several things that can prevent a dryer from not heating.. Unplug Power Before checking.
Electric Models
1- Power- Your dryer runs on 220volts. 110 runs the entire dryer and 110 runs just the element. Your breaker may have half tripped. Check to see if you are getting the correct amount of power by using a ohm meter. Also check the power cord for burn marks on the plugin and the cord itself.
2- The thermal fuse can prevent this from heating. The thermal fuse is a sensor on the blower housing the measures the temperature of the air. There is a cycling thermistat near the thermal fuse. If the dryer temp gets over 190-220 degrees the thermal fuse will blow to cut power to the element to prevent fire. You can test this by using a continuity tester.
3- High limit and/or thermal cutoff. These are both sensors on the heating element housing. Thermal cutoff is at the top and the high limit is near the bottom above the heating element connectors. Test these with a continuity tester.
4- Heating element- Just below the high limit on the heater housing. Test for continuity.
5- Motor- The motor has to reach a certain rpm to activate a sinfrigrial switch inside the motor. If the rpm is not reached it will not allow current to go to the element.
6- Timer- Make sure you are trying this on timed dry. Sometimes people use air fluff and forget to change it back. The timer could also not be sending current to the heater.

Gas models
1- Electric ignitor- Inside the flame tunnel inside of dryer near where gas line hooks up. Usually if it glows than it is still good but check to see if it is sending and amp signal to the heat coils.
2- Heater coils are two valves that open up when the ignitor send signal saying the ignitor can ignite the gas. Heat coils will not open to send gas if it does not receive a signal from the ignotor. They look like two round disk with two wires running from ignitor.
3- Flame sensor- Change if you change the heater coils. The flame sensor could not be detecting the flame inside so it shuts down the ignitor.
4- Motor- See above
5- Timer See above

If you have any further questions or need further assistance please feel free to comment me back.

Jul 27, 2011 | Kenmore Dryers

1 Answer

I have a Kenmore Dryer Mod#110 62722101. It will run about 10 minutes and shut off, after a cool down period it will restart but only run about 10 mins. Heats, fine, tumbles fine. A few days before this...


If it runs after a cool down period, then the high temperature limit is part of the cause. What is causing the high temperature limit to overheat is next.
Strong stream of air should be felt coming out the exhaust, make sure this exhaust air works or the burner part will overheat and cut out the flame/burner on hight temp safety.
With good exhaust air varified, the drying air operating temperature sensor needs to be checked, this cuts power to the burner. The sensor must open electricaly when satisified on temperature and should be properly mounted for proper sensing of temperature.
Bottom line: Check the hot air and its control

Jun 04, 2017 | Dryers

1 Answer

I have a Kenmore electric (front load) dryer, model number 84092500 that would spin but does not produce any heat. I tried cleaning/vacuumin the tubing that vents to the outside and resetting the circuit...


The first step of the fix has been done by cleaning the lint filter and the vent system.The next step is replacing the thermal cut-off and the high-limit thermostat both located on the blower housing. It is common that the dryer stops heating when the thermal cut-off blows open due to the failure of the high-limit thermostat to cycle off and regulate the heater temperature. The thermal cut-off cuts power to the heating element should the high-limit thermostat fails and the dryer temperature goes extremely high as a safety feature. Click on the links below for the troubleshooting and repair details.

Whirlpool and Whirlpool-made Electric Dryers (With Removable Back Panel) Not Heating
Whirlpool and Whirlpool-made Electric Dryers (Without Removable Back Panel) Not Heating

Jun 19, 2011 | Kenmore Dryers

1 Answer

I have an older Kenmore gas dryer model # 97260100 it heats up for 15 minutes then goes cold, drum continues to run can u give me any insight as to what needs to be replaced


The problem is either of the cycling thermostat, high-limit thermostat or the gas valve solenoid coils sitting on top of the gas valve assembly. Disconnect power then verify any of these condition by bypassing the thermostats. Refer to the image below and locate the thermostats.
jahn27_16.jpg
Note: This is an image of an electric dryer but the thermostat and the thermal cut-off (cut-out) locations are the same.

Disconnect each of the thermostat wires then connect and insulate them properly. Once done, reconnect power and start the dryer. The gas valve solenoid coils are indeed faulty and both need to be replaced if the problem still persists. Click here for the procedure in replacing the solenoid coils.

Gas Valve Solenoid Coils Replacement Procedure

Either or both of the cycling thermostat and the high-limit thermostat are malfunctioning if the dryer continues to heat up with the thermostats bypassed. Disconnect power then reconnect the cycling thermostat wires but keeping the high-limit thermostat bypassed. Reconnect power then start the dryer. The high-limit thermostat is the culprit if the dryer continues to heat up. If not, then the cycling thermostat is the culprit.

Also do the other way; that is reconnecting the high-limit thermostat wires but keeping the cycling thermostat bypassed. The cycling thermostat is the culprit if the dryer continues to heat up. If not, then the high-limit thermostat is the culprit.

Replace the faulty thermostat and it should solve the problem.

Nov 08, 2010 | Kenmore 72872 Gas Dryer

1 Answer

Have a kenmore model # 110.72822101, where's the thermostat located, my dryer gets hot then cold


The cycling thermostat or the high-limit thermostat may not be the problem but rather the gas valve solenoid coils sitting on top of the gas valve assembly. Disconnect power then verify this condition by bypassing the thermostats. Refer to the image below and locate the thermostats.
jahn27_15.jpg
Note: This is an image of an electric dryer but the thermostat and the thermal cut-off (cut-out) locations are the same.

Disconnect each of the thermostat wires then connect and insulate them properly. Once done, reconnect power and start the dryer. The gas valve solenoid coils are indeed faulty and both need to be replaced if the problem still persists. Click here for the procedure in replacing the solenoid coils.

Gas Valve Solenoid Coils Replacement Procedure

Either or both of the cycling thermostat and the high-limit thermostat are malfunctioning if the dryer continues to heat up with the thermostats bypassed. Disconnect power then reconnect the cycling thermostat wires but keeping the high-limit thermostat bypassed. Reconnect power then start the dryer. The high-limit thermostat is the culprit if the dryer continues to heat up. If not, then the cycling thermostat is the culprit.

Also do the other way; that is reconnecting the high-limit thermostat wires but keeping the cycling thermostat bypassed. The cycling thermostat is the culprit if the dryer continues to heat up. If not, then the high-limit thermostat is the culprit.

Replace the faulty thermostat and it should solve the problem.

Nov 08, 2010 | Kenmore 72822Gas Dryer

1 Answer

No heat why?


It could be bad igniter / High Limits thermostat / flame sensor / Gas valve solenoid or some time it could be bad motor.

May 23, 2010 | Kenmore Elite HE4 Electric Dryer

1 Answer

Kenmore 80 series gas dryer not heating


THE SOLENOID IS A REPLACEABLE PART ONLY. GET YOUR
MODEL # AND PURCHASE A SET OF SOLENOIDS IF YOU ARE SURE THAT IS THE PROBLEM. THE INSTALLATIONS INSTRUCTIONS SHOULD BE IN THE PACKAGE.

BE SURE YOU CHECK FOR A BAD THERMAL FUSE, CYCLING THERMOSTAT, HIGH LIMIT THERMOSTAT, BAD
TEMPERATURE SWITCH, MOTOR CENTRIFUGAL SWITCH, TIMER, AND RADIANT SENSOR. THEY ALSO WILL CAUSE A NO HEAT CONDITION.

Jun 24, 2008 | Dryers

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