WHEN TURNING ON CENTRAL AIR , THE COOLING FAN WILL COME ON FOR 2 SECONDS THEN SHUT OFF.
THE UNIT STILL COOLS THE HOUSE BUT FAN NOT COOLING CONDENSER UNIT.
CHECKED WIRING AND REPLACE CAPACITER STILL SAME RESULT ?
a 6ya expert can help you resolve that issue over the phone in a minute or two.
best thing about this new service is that you are never placed on hold and get to talk to real repairmen in the US.
the service is completely free and covers almost anything you can think of (from cars to computers, handyman, and even drones).
click here to download the app (for users in the US for now) and get all the help you need. goodluck!
- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
Due to the many different questions I see about Air Conditioning, I am including this overview to help us better understand each other for trouble shooting. A basic air conditioning system has a Thermostat, Air Handler or Furnace Fan and a Condensing unit. In a split system, the condensing unit (Condenser) is separate from the furnace and usually in the back yard. When working properly, it blows hot air. It connects to the cooling part of the system by 2 copper lines. One large line and 1 small line. The part that cools the house is the "Evaporator" and is usually on top of the furnace inside the square metal box (Plenum). When the Air Conditioner is running, the large copper line should be cold and the smaller line should be warm. Common signs of low refrigerant are that both lines are the same temperature and/or frost or ice has built up on the large line at the condenser. The thermostat will normally display room temperature on till it is touched to change the setting. It could have a "Span" setting as well as times and temperatures. The operating "span" of MOST residential thermostats is 40 to 90 degrees. That means you can set it as low as 40 degrees and no higher than 90 degrees. It probably has a fan switch also. When in the "ON" position, the fan will run constantly, 24 / 7, but the condenser will still cycle on and off as needed to keep the house at set point. If you have a suggestion to include in this paragraph, please let me know. Roger
Most condensing units have low pressure safety switches in them. If your system is low on refrigerant, the compressor will run a little and shut off. When the pressures across the compressor equalize, it will come back on. This cycle will repeat on till enough gas has leaked to stop resetting the pressure switch. If this is what is happening, shut the condenser off. Short cycling will over heat the compressor. You will need a technician to find and fix the leak. Also to recharge your system when repaired. Let me know if I failed to help. Roger
If properly charged your unit should perform fine, having a dirty condensor at that temperature can cause problems not easily recognized.
A well insulated house should be able to maintain a 20 degree temperature difference whether its summer
or winter. No Mechanical cooling or heating involved
for at least 6-8hrs if not more.
If it never cools when it is 95 degrees outside the ambient outside temperature is not the problem.
At 95 degree out side air you should be seeing inside discharge air temperatures betwenn 48-55 degrees.
It is the load in the house that determines how long the unit will run at 95 degress.
I don't know what you use to heat your house, (heat pump, gas, oil) but if it is not a heat pump, i.e.. you don't use the outdoor unit to produce both heat and cooling, then the first place to look is at the compressor in the condensing unit (outdoor unit). If you have a bad capacitor, it will cause the compressor to pull locked rotor amperage (LRA) for an extended period of time and will cause the fuse to trip (usually within 2 or 3 seconds) The other possibility would be that something got into the wiring and have created a short. I have seen more insect and rodent damage to wires then you can imagine, so this is also a high possibility. Hope this helps
be aware that not repairing this asap that you are causing yourself more problems First I would change out the fan capacitor and see if this could be the problem. Secondly if the capacitor isn,t the problem change out the motor . By continuing to allow the system to cycle like this the compressor will take a dive on you costing more . Good Luck
Capacitor, dirty condencer coil causing the motor amps to run too high. But most likely worn bearing on blade side of motor causing it to pull to one side causing it to over heat and shut down. Sleve bearings should have no side play.
First of all, clean your outside coils so that you are assured of good cooling air. The compressors have an overtemp device that is usually internal to protect them against heat. If you have an air compressor use it to blow out the coils good. If the compressor will start, the capacitor is good so it sounds like a cooling problem with the compressor