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Not all the necessary hardware is provided for installation so it is necessary to hire a professional licensed plumber to complete the installation.
• Connect tubing (supplied with unit) to the nearest cold water source. Connect sufficient tubing to the unit to allow the appliance to be moved freely for cleaning and service. Also make sure that the tubing is not pinched or damaged during transportation.
• Position unit to allow free airflow through the front grill (see sketch 1). Wipe out inside of unit and ice bin
with a damp cloth.
Before Using Your Ice Maker
• Remove the exterior and interior packing.
• Check to be sure you have all of the following parts:
1 removable ice bin
1 plastic scoop
25 ft. hose
1 instruction manual
• Before connecting the ice maker to the power source, let it stand upright for approximately 2 hours. This will reduce the possibility of a malfunction in the cooling system from handling during transportation.
• Clean the interior surface with lukewarm water using a soft cloth.
Installation of Your Ice Maker
• This appliance is designed to be either free-standing or built-in (fully recessed). If free standing, the unit should have at least 4" of clearance at both sides, at the top and at the back to allow for adequate ventilation. If it is built-in, leave at least 3/16" at both sides, 1/16" at the top and 2" at the rear. Be sure that airflow under the appliance is not blocked.
• Place your ice maker on a floor that is strong enough to support the ice maker when it is fully loaded. (Remember that the unit will be significantly heavier once it is fully loaded.) To level your ice maker, adjust the leg at the front of the unit.
• Locate the ice maker away from direct sunlight and sources of heat (stove, heater, radiator, etc.). Direct sunlight may affect the acrylic coating and heat sources may increase electrical consumption. Extremely cold ambient temperatures may also cause the ice maker not to perform properly.
• Avoid locating the ice maker in moist areas. Too much moisture in the air will cause frost to form quickly on the evaporator requiring more frequent defrosting of the ice maker.
• Plug the ice maker into an exclusive, properly-installed grounded wall outlet. Do not under any circumstances cut or remove the third (ground) prong from the power cord. Any questions concerning power and or grounding should be directed toward a certified electrician or an authorized SUMMIT products service center.
Make sure normal drain line (located under the ice) is not clogged. Check gaskets and seals. Also make sure everyone who uses it closes the door completely and does not leave it cracked open. And make sure no one has screwed any thing into it and punctured through it. A screw alone will not keep the water in.
Ice not being dumped out because the heating element designed to slightly melt ice so arms can push it out is non functional and needs replacement. Cheaper and better to replace entire unit at nominal cost.
Hello. Turn off the water to the ice maker. Remove the ice cubes, use a blow dryer to dry the mold and then spray the mold with PAM cooking spray. Let that dry and then turn the water to the ice maker back on. Joe
All units made today have defrost timers to clear ice from the evaporator. Some of the ice sublimates...turns directly into humidity in the air in the box. It re-condenses in the ice tray area. It is possible that nothing is wrong other than excessive opening of the bin area or the defrost timer is running slow and staying on too long. You may also be consuming the ice too slowly. Can you either change the amount of ice in the bin by adding something to simulate part of the ice content or shut off ice production against low demand?