Ran great last ride bike sat a few days went to ride it and while cranking would misfire.never started acted as if flooded.checked spark looks ok.eventually i got the bike started ran a bit rough so i filled the bike with fresh gas and added some b12.next day bike started and ran great.2 days later right back to not starting.cleaned carb drained tank still cant get it to run,it tries to start .dont know if its carb or electrical please advise.
thanks scott benton
An expert who has achieved level 2 by getting 100 points
An expert that got 10 achievements.
An expert that got 5 achievements.
An expert whose answer got voted for 100 times.
Re: 2003 883 sportster wont start
What u are describing is typical of a faulty ignition system, but could also be a fuel problem. I check by removing the aircleaner and rotating the throttle. If u see a nice spray of fuel, thats probably not the problem. Check for a spark at the plugs. I can explain how if you need me to. If you cant see a good spark, U have an electrical problem. I had a crank position sensor go bad on me. Dont do what I did (replaced the battery, ignition, and regulator as part of my diagnosis procedure)
- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
Either you have a dead short in your wireing or your battery is not charging fully. Use a volt meter your battery will have 12 volts start the bike and it should read 13 plus then take it up to 2000 rpm above idle anyway it should read 14 plus. If you dont have these numbers then you have a stator or regulator problem or both. You may be geting a slight charge when running but not enough to keep the battery peaked out.
Very common on h-d big twins for the last 75 years or so. These bikes have a dry sump oil system which means you have 2 oil pumps, feed and scavenge. The feed pump is very puny compaired to the scavenge, so at idle (especially when hot) it carries only a couple of pounds of pressure and that is all you need. The scavenge pump has a much greater capacity because if it can't keep up the crancase will start filling up and the crank will start slogging through the oil, killing performance. These bikes are equipped with hydraulic valve lifters which will start clanking loudly if you have a real oil pressure problem. Enjoy your ride and don't sweat it.
Another common problem. Open transmitter, remove battery - there's a small tang dead center under battery. I think it's bent down. Use small screwdriver bend upward to act as spring against battery. Reinstall battery and cover. That should do it! Works for 80% of transmitters. Otherwise you have to take it to a dealer and they'll put it on the digital tech and relearn your code to your moduel, but battery trick works most of the time. It gets bent down being in pockets and getting the button pushed. Let me know if this worked.
Start by narrowing it down to fire or fuel problem. Pull a sparkplug, ground it to the head, and crank the engine. If there is no spark, then test the plug wires, coil, then ignition module in order down the line until you find where the power stops. If you have spark, then check the petcock to carb for fuel. If there is no fuel from the petcock, then it will be the petcock filter or the petcock is bad. If you do have fuel to the carb, but no to the cylinders, then the carb may need to be cleaned and/or rebuilt. Try these and let me know.
Check the battery connections, especially if you hear a click just before it goes dead. I know that on my bike, when this happens, the screws that hold the battery cables in place have backed out and not getting a good contact. You would think that with a bad contact that it would stay dead when you turn the key off then back on, but oddly, everything comes back on normally until I hit the starter button. Check the cables.
Turns out the crank sensor needed to be replaced again (second time in 8 weeks or so!). In the last week Harley has sent out a "improved" crank sensor that does not have the issues of the original. Therefore if you replace it once you shouldn't have to do it again and again. Bike runs great now. We will see - though - my local service manager promises it will stay that way.