Question about Mulchers
I have a Craftsman Lawnmower. It is broken. I think I can fix it if I could get a manual. I found the mower used.
If you Did Not Soak the Carburetor Overnight in Cleaner, then
>>The Following is a Basic File I Made for Cleaning Carburetors. Any Input is Appreciated. Even though the Carburetor Looks Clean, the Internal Passages May be Restricted with Varnish that Gas Causes to Build Up over Time.
>>Spray Cleaners Remove this Varnish in Layers, so Soaking is the Only Sure Way to Remove ALL this Varnish.
>>I have Found that Most People can Use a Breakdown/IPL and Disassemble the Carburetor Enough for Proper Cleaning.
>>You Only have to Remove the Bowl (if Applicable), Float Pin (if Applicable), Float (if Applicable), Needle Valve.
Remove Any Adjustment Screws that Go Into the Carburetor Body. The Welch Plugs Do Not have to be Removed.
>>If you are Able to Remove and Disassemble the Carburetor and Keep the Gaskets Intact, then Usually these Gaskets can be Reused. The Only Parts you May Need to Replace is the Needle Valve.
>>The Float Needle Usually is Not Replaced Unless it is Not Operating Properly (the gas flow not shutting off and the carburetor is Flooding). Do Not Remove the Main Nozzle. This is a Pressed Fit and Removal is Not Required for Cleaning. Soaking and Blowing the Carburetor Out After Soaking will Clean the Nozzle.
>>Once Disassembled, then Soak the Carburetor Body and Parts in a 1 Gallon Can of Gunk Carburetor Cleaner Overnight. The Can has a Parts Tray Inside it for the Small Parts.
>>Once the Carburetor and Parts are in the Cleaner, you can Replace the Lid for Safety and to Prevent Accidental Spillage. Then Blow Out the Passages with Compressed Air.
>>***(Do Not Use High Pressure Air for the Zama Carburetors, they have Check Valves for the Primer and these are Usually Blown Out of the Carburetor if Not Careful. Allow the Zama Carburetor to Set on a Drip Pan and Dry)***.
>>****All the Carburetor Adjustments are the Same for Lawn Mower and Trimmers. There are Several Location for the Air Mixture Screws. The Idle Air Mixture Screws are Usually Located at the Top of the Carburetor Bowl and the Top of the Carburetor Body.****
>>If the Main Air and Idle Air Mixture Screws are Side by Side on the Side of the Carburetor, then the Idle Air is Nearest the Engine. The Main Jet Air Mixture Screw is Located in the Bottom of the Carburetor Bowl or Beside the Idle Air Screw on the Side of the Carburetor Body.
>>Some of the Older Model Carburetors have the Main Jet Mixture Screw Straight in from the Top of the Carburetor Body (this is Rare anymore). If you have Cleaned the Carburetor (Disassembled and Soaked Overnight in Carburetor Cleaner (I Use Gunk). Then Blow Out the Passages with Compressed Air and Install a New Kit if Required. Now Setting the Air Mixture Screws:
>>****Turn the Idle Air and Main Air Mixture Screws In Until SNUG **Do Not Jam** Then Reverse Both Screws 1 1/2 Turns. Holding the Throttle Full Open, Start the Engine. Turn the Main Air Mixture Screw Clockwise Until Proper Revs are Obtained. Occasionally you May have to Turn this Counter Clockwise to Achieve the Proper Revs. Now Allow the Engine to Idle. Set the Engine Idle Screw (Not Idle Air) so the Engine will Stay Running if Required. Now Set the Idle Air Mixture Screw so there is No Hesitation when Throttling from Idle to Full Throttle. Reset the Engine Idle if Required.****
>>If This Carburetor has a Single Air Adjustment (Except Tank Mounted 9200 and 100900 Engine Model Carburetors), Use the Section Above that Pertains to Full Throttle RPM Air Mixture Screw and then Adjust the Screw if Required to Eliminate Any Hesitation when Throttling from Idle to Full Throttle.
>>For the 9200 Model Tank Mounted Carburetor Adjust the Air Mixture Screw Full In, then Reverse 1 1/2 Turns. Set the Throttle Lever to Full Throttle and Start the Engine.
>>Now Carefully Use 1 Finger and Open the Throttle Plate and Over Rev the Engine Slightly. If the Engine Over Revs and Does Not Struggle to Over Rev, then the Carburetor is Set. If the Engine Struggles to Over Rev, then Turn the Adjustment Screw In 1/4 Turn and Repeat the Over Rev Test.
>>If you Adjust to 1/2 Turns In and the Engine Still Struggles to Over Rev, then Return the Adjustment Screw to 1 1/2 Turns Out from Snug and Turn the Screw Out 1/4 Turn. Do the Over Rev Test. Continue this Process Until you have the Engine Over Revving without Struggle.
>>By Adjusting the Carburetor on this Style Carburetor Until the Engine Over Revs without Struggle, you have Adjusted the Air Mixture to the Best Possible Setting.
>>This file was Intended to Give you the Basic Carburetor Cleaning Instructions and May Not Reflect Your Carburetor Components.
>>If you have Questions, Please Ask. The links above Provide Good Directions on Cleaning the Carburetor. Make sure you use an Compressed Air to Blow through all the Carburetor Passages to make sure they are Clear.
>>2- http://www.cpdonline.com/692509.pdf .
>>The Following is an Instruction File I Made for the Gas Contamination of the Crankcase Oil. Any Input Concerning the File is Appreciated.
>>Depending on the Engine Model, Usually the Gas in the Crankcase Oil or White/Blue Smoke is Caused by the Carburetor Float Needle Valve Not Seating Properly and Allowing the Gas to Flood the Carburetor and Engine. Then the Gas Seeps by the Rings and Enters the Crankcase and Contaminates the Crankcase Oil.
>The Smoking is Caused Not Only by the Flooded Crankcase but can be Caused by 1 of the Following; a Bad Diaphragm in the Fuel Pump, a Blown Head Gasket between the Cylinder and Push Tube Galley, the Crankcase Vent Stuck/Frozen/Broken or the Carburetor Flooding the Engine.
>>1- Clean the Carburetor and Replace the Float Needle Valve (and Seat if this Model has One). A- **Remove, Disassemble and Soak the Carburetor Overnight in Carburetor Cleaner (I Use Gunk). I have Found that Most People can Use a Breakdown/IPL and Disassemble the Carburetor Enough for Proper Cleaning. You Only have to Remove the Bowl (if Applicable), Float Pin (if Applicable), Float (if Applicable) and Needle Valve and Any Adjustment Screws that Go Into the Carburetor Body. The Welch Plugs Do Not have to be Removed. Then Soak the Carburetor Body and Parts in a 1 Gallon Can of Gunk Carburetor Cleaner Overnight. The Can has a Parts Tray Inside it for the Small Parts. Once the Carburetor and Parts are in the Cleaner, you can Replace the Lid for Safety and to Prevent Accidental Spillage. Then Blow Out the Passages with Compressed Air. Install New Parts if Required.**
>>If the Carburetor Float Needle is Good, then; 2- Block the Outlet Port and Pull a Vacuum on the Fuel Pump. If it Holds Vacuum, then it is Good. If Not, then the Diaphragm is Busted and the Pump Requires Replacing. If the Fuel Pump is Good, then Check the Crankcase Oil for Gas Contamination.
>>If the Crankcase Oil is Contaminated, then Drain and Refill the Crankcase Oil with Fresh Oil.
3- **If the Mower has a Manual Gas Shut Off Valve: Check the Manual Cut Off Valve and Make Sure it is Cutting Off the Gas Flow to the Carburetor. A- If Not Stopping the Gas Flow, then Replace the Valve. B- If the Mower Does Not have a Manual Cut Off Valve: Install a Manual Cut Off Valve and Turn Off the Gas Flow when the Engine is Not in Use. These Carburetor Styles Tend to Allow Gas to Seep by the Rubber Tipped Needle Kit or the 2 Pc O-Ring Needle Kit. A I Believe I Said Before, I have Seen a Lot of these Problems and this is the Way I have Found to be Sure the Crankcase Oil Does Not become Contaminated with Gas Again.**
>>4- If the Valve is Good or has Been Installed, then Remove the Cylinder Head. On the OHV Engines the Head gasket will Blow Between the Cylinder and the Push Tube Galley. This Allow Oil to be Sucked Into the Cylinder from the Crankcase and the Extra Oil is Just Enough to Cause the White Smoke.
>>5- Check the Crankcase Breather and Make Sure it is Clean and Operating Properly.
>>6- If the Crankcase Breather Sticks, then Oil is Pulled from the Crankcase into the Carburetor Throat and this Causes the White Smoke.
>>7- If the Crankcase Oil is Good, then Check the Gas Tank Cap and Ensure it is Venting the Tank. If the Gas Cap is Not Venting the Tank, then Pressure Builds in the Tank and the Pressure Pushes Gas by the Carburetor Float Needle Valve and Floods the Engine and Crankcase Oil.
Please, Do Not Hesitate, If I Missed Something or you Hit a Snag or this Does Not Correct the Problem, I am Here if You Require More Assistance.
Hope this Helps. Let me Know What Happens, Please. May the All Mighty Bless You and Yours. Be Safe and Be Happy. Thanks.
Posted on May 15, 2009
You will have check the carburettor. If you cleaned the air filter, the carb.is right under it. Or if you follow the fuel pipe from the fuel tank it will run straight to the carb. Remove the round bowl at the base, it is held on with a small screw at the bottom. Clean this out and blow out the carb. with air. You may have to remove the whole carb. to clean it right. Good luck, Stephen.
Posted on Sep 29, 2009
try taking one bolt off bowl under carborator --see if small pin come loose that holds float on--thats what happened to mine
Posted on Oct 06, 2009
It should be a 4 stroke, the only thing I can find on it is the mulcher blades, set up called a side discharge mower. It has a 5.5 HP ,22 inch, briggs and stratton engine. Hope this helps.
Posted on May 06, 2010
It sounds like you you could have a motor problem but it could be in your drive system depending on model. You could have a stuck exhaust vavle or many other things. You haven't listed motor model or brand, but take the cover off the valves and see if they are moving. If your drive is driven off the main motor shaft with a belt, try removing this belt and see how well it turns. It could be your drive transmission not working properly.
Posted on Jul 21, 2010
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