Question about Creek 5350SE Amplifier
Right after turning on the switch, I hear scratchy noise from the speakers intermittently. Losing sound output, reduce in output level occurs also. This happens on both channel, but left side seems to be worse. I have had a retailer look at twice with no success. They could not find anything wring. I sent the unit to a retailer in L.A. who was recommended by MusicHall. They also could not recreate the problem. When I touched the metal case, it sometimes fix it. So, I guess there may be a solder crack somewhere. Has anyone had a similar problem and found a solution ? Thanks,
I think I had the same problem with the DSP-A1000. The problem is probably dust in the CD/Tuner/etc switch. After checking all the connectors and wires in the machine and cleaning and contact spraying them, the problem still persisted. I found however thad by putting pressure at the printplate above the CD/Tuner/etc switch,I could reproduce the problem(make the noice louder/less loud). I took the switch out and cleansed it inside and outside with contact spray. turned the switch a couple of times, let it dry, et voila, problem solved! good luck! gr, Bram
Posted on Dec 15, 2006
This description was copied from a description of the Creek 5350SE. `The circuit consists of a passive input stage and volume control which then feed the power amplifier section. It is possible to make this pre-amp section an active device by adding a gain module'. This sounds like an old problem with volume controls which are essentially, a potentiometer. If there is absolutely no voltage on the slider of the potentiometer then no noise is generated, and amplified. In your case a voltage is generated when you power up from your input devices, such as a record player or cd player or mixer unit. The retailer in LA could not recreate the problem as he may not have had the same audio set-up. Try to isolate the input by not connecting the other units, and switch on to test. If you find the culprit unit you will find it has a DC voltage on its output on switch on, which dies away slowly. Touching the metal case is a way of discharging this voltage build up, and you should also make sure the units metalwork are connected, with extra wires. If you can make the pre-amp section an active device by adding the gain module this will most likely cure the noise problem. If the output speakers protection relay circuit, inhibit time can be increased by adjustment this would mask the effect, which is what its for.
Posted on Oct 20, 2006
My yamaha tuner does this every few months. POwering down the receiver and rapidly turning it to full volume then no volume a dozen times clears the contacts on the volume potentiometer. The problem always goes away for another couple of months.
Posted on Apr 27, 2007
Contact spray to use in long ridge switches for input selection
potentiometers , look the solderings especially on active components with heatsink , if you have an older amplifier its good to further draw after a bit the screws on the mounting of the output transistors coldspray if somewhere are 1n4001 diodes are used replace them with the 1n4004 or 1n4007
Posted on Nov 21, 2016
Can you confirm for me what is your amp? is it Yamaha? what model please
Posted on Mar 19, 2008
I encountered exactly the same problem on my setup: Alesis Masterlink ML9600 directly hooked to a Yamaha P5000S. I can hear little sparkling sounds and the output volume is very loud. When connecting my mixer (Mackie 1642 VLZ-III) or my digital mutlitrack recorder (Yamaha AW1600), this problem is absent. Actually, when thinking about it, I believe that it's obvious that a preamp should be place in-between the CD player and the power amp. I consider adding a very simple preamp, like a Rotel RC-06. Effe
Posted on Oct 08, 2007
It seem to be the cold solder on the Gain Stage circuit. It build up a lot of heat when the unit is on. The Gain Stage is below the input relays. Both channel need to re-touch all the solder points.
Posted on Aug 24, 2007
Check the outputs with a multimeter and look for voltage leaks
Posted on Jun 01, 2007
I had the same problem you need to get the selcter switch replaced as they had problems with some of the batch of swicthes once you get a replacement fron yamaha you will have no problems
Posted on Feb 24, 2007
Azuma I hope that you are still checking back to this post. I have the same piece of equipment with the same problem. I suspect that both of us have leaky capacitors. I have heard more than once that Krell has this problem. Some capacitors are "self-healing" when the dielectric starts to break down, which explains the intermitant part, but once they start, they only get worse. Check out the web site stereorepair.net. Larry
Posted on Jan 25, 2007
Im surprised the techs did not find it, as it sounds like poor connections in the speaker safety relay. It really shound be replaced. Good Luck PS please dont forget to rate this thread.
Posted on Oct 19, 2006
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
Sounds like its time to change the needle [Stylus ] , there are a few types But the two most common are Saphire and Diamond Stylus pay the extra and get a diamond if you can , Hope this helps
Posted on Jun 01, 2009
It's the ribbon cable that is likely at fault. There are actually three computer type ribbon cables in the amp. I believe the cable that is responsible for the drop-out of a channel is the widest (longest) of the three, but you really need a tech to look at it and replace the cable. But please note that the new cable may also have defects in manufacture and that it may take some time to order a new cable from Creek. I had a tech solve the problem permanently by removing all three ribbon cables and then hard-wiring the connections together - that is to say, point-to-point wiring. My cost was about $250, but as you can imagine, there is extensive labor involved. Good luck!
Posted on Aug 13, 2009
I think you will find that the fault is either a dry joint somewhere (have you moved it recently?) OR more likely a transistor. It might be caused by one getting very hot! Thus shutting down and coming back on when cool.
The best way to track this troublemaker down is to spary each transistor (in the left channel only don't bother with the other or Power section) with Servisol Freezer spray. Wait for the thing to play up then spray -one at a time- if it pops on you have got the bugger! To make certain apply a soldering to it and it should act up again. Spray again to confirm.
Posted on Apr 12, 2010
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