Hi, 1) Get an ohm meter. 2) open the mic 3) unclamp the mic cord at the plug and slide the plug case up the cable to enable you to see the wires soldered to the plug. 4) use the ohm meter to check the wire continuity by checking each color wire one at a time. The meter should have full deflection if the wire is OK, make sure to wiggle the wire to make sure it is not intermittent.
Personally I would just change out the cord. If it is going the rest of the wires are going too.
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You should be able to get at it from under the vehicle if you have small enough arms and hands. The cable is at the top of the engine bay and connects to what looks like a curled piece of wire(which is the release catch). It is barely visible and diffycult to operate. Someone pressing down on the front centre of the hood (directly above the catch mechanism) will make things easier for the unfortunate individual that has to stick his head under the vehicle. It can be done without the need for tools. When you do get it open and need to replace the cable do not just pull the old cable out. It is a nightmare to replace without a draw wire. Fasten a piece of string or wire at least 2 meters(6-7 feet) to the old cable before removing it. Then remove the end of the string from the old cable and connect it to the new one before drawing the new cable into place using the draw wire. Some insulation tape over the end of the cable where it joins to the draw wire(to prevent it catching on something) will ease matters.
SWR is key. A poor SWR can result in RF power backfeeding into the radio and can show up as distorted audio strange indications on displays, etc. Your 1.1 : 1 - 1.5 : 1 SWR ratio is very good, but double check antenna connections and make sure they're good and made up tight. Inspect the soldered and crimped on connections for evidence of breaks, etc. Pay attention to the condition of the ground point at the antenna end - clean any rusted metal to ensure a solid ground. Mag mounts won't have a ground point - so try to be sure that the base is on a relatively smooth, flat surface,
The next thing to check would be the mic and associated connectors & cable. Repair any suspect connections. Finding nothing, you might want to ring out the cable itself with a tester or better yet, and ohmmeter. replace the cable if any conductor has broken at a point where cutting it off would leave the cable too short to use. If it's broken near the ends (a common failure point) simply cut off the bad part and reconnect the mic or connector as needed.
You might even try a new mic if you think the original is no longer functioning correctly.
That's about as far as you're going to get without needing specialized equipment (not to mention an FCC license) to dig any deeper and make repairs.
Hopefully, you'll find the problem without needing to go further. Good luck!
The first thing you have to do before you start is take your old key and get a new key made with the right resistor pellet as your old key. They have to cut the new key to the dummy key so it will turn the lock cylinder. The car won't crank with the dummy key cause there is no pellet in it.
Your going to need a steering wheel puller and a lock ring depressor tool. Disable the driver's air bag from the yellow connector under the dash. Remove the airbag and unplug its connector. Disconnect by rotating counter-clock wise the horn connector. Put the airbag facing up on the back seat. Remove the steering wheel nut and use the steering wheel or harmonic balancer puller to remove the steering wheel. Note: there is a mark on the shaft that lines up on the steering wheel's mark.
Remove the clock spring c clip. Pull the clock spring out enough to let it dangle. Do not rotate the clock spring or it will break later after you reinstall it. Remove the wave washer and depress the lock ring cam with the lock ring depressor tool. Remove the metal ring with picks and small screwdrivers. Remove the tool and lock ring. Unscrew the hazard switch button with phillips screwdriver. Then remove the turn signal level cam screws from turn signal switch. Remove the three turn signal switch screws.
Go under the dash and unbolt the large connector halves. Just follow the wires that run through and under the column to find the connector. There is a plastic piece that the wires in the column come out of. Squeeze the plastic pieces tabs together and pull the plastic wiring protector out. Undo the small connector that has the two little white wires on it. Pull the turn signal switch out far enough to let it dangle. Using a pair of needle noise gently remove the key chime switch. Pull it out gentle like you are picking a nose hair. You'll see a bolt with an torx head. Remove the bolt and pull the orange white wire retainer from its hole. The ignition switch should slide out.
Tie a piece of string to the end of the white wire connector you unplugged. Then pull the white wires up through the column along with the string. Cut the string from the connector after you fish it out. Tie the end of the string to the new ignition switch white wire connector and gently pull on the other end of the string at the bottom of the dash to fish the wires down into the column. From there everything is reversed
As for me ,the Wilson 1000 or Wilson 2000 are the best mobile antenna for a mobile. I have out talked a lot of base antennas with them, just put it on the top of car in the center or trunk, or middle of cab of truck, with a good SWR and you are talking and receiving. great antenna. ...hope this helps..
Cut the terminal off the wire at the alternator end. Leave enough wire so you can use a inline connector to put the terminal back on the new wire.Tie a strong string monofilament fishline works good) to the old wire at the alternator end. Pull the old wire out slowly and carefully out of the loom so that the string follows it. When you have the string at the battery end tie it to your new wire and slowly and carefully pull it back through the loom. Some lubricant will help it slip into place. Install new terminals as required and hook it up. It should work fine!
These sets have what is known as a on board Tuner. This means that the Tuner is not replaceable without replacing the entire Board. The good news is that you can replace the Cable/RF connector as long as the shield it attached to is not broke or too bent. Most of the Cable/RF connectors used in these sets have PCB mount . You will have to remove the Signal Board and unsolder the center connection of the broken connector left on the Board. Remount the new
Connector and solder the center connection. You may need a collar nut to secure the Connector the the shield.
I hope this helps,
hi the radio internall will have a driver and final transistor these are for the output signal or tx. you might find that the final transistor is faulty and needs replacing these fail due to incorrect swr or tuning of the antenna or cable / connector shorts. dont over look a bad microphone connection wiring on either end and internally on the ptt switch
most common driver is 2sc2166 and 2sc1969 for 27mhz amm & ssb
The end without a connector was once attached to an antenna. You need a proper antenna in order to use the radio. If you were to buy a new antenna, it will come with a length of cable attached. Even if you were to buy a new antenna, don't expect good performance from the radio unless you get the antenna properly adjusted. Yes, it will work "out of the box", but probably not as good as it could. There is a device called an SWR bridge, it's used to measure the SWR and the user then adjusts the antenna for the lowest reading by trial and error adjustment of the antenna.