Automatic Transmission is squealing and bogs down when under load
When going uphill, or when I have my bagger on, the auto trans squeals real bad, and the tractor slows right down. I have to bring the speed lever to a crawl make it move at all. It acts like a fluid problem in hydraulics. Is there a way to add or check?
Re: Automatic Transmission is squealing and bogs down...
Check the trans drive belt, most likely that, or a worn tension pulley. check easy things first. Try pulling back on foot pedal to give belt a bit more tension.
If the trans looks clean and no leeks start with the belt.
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If I understand the issue correctly, the belt that drives the machine's transmission squeals. When does it squeal? When engaging the clutch? When in motion?
Typically it's the condition of the belt. It's likely slipping due to stretch, wear or from an oil leak causing it to slip, or simply due to a loose idler pulley, worn idler pulley bearing, broken spring. Look for all that stuff. Look at the drive belt and inspect for wear, cracks, fraying, missing rubber, etc. Replace it if any of those conditions are found.
This can be a trans problem, but it can also be because you are not pushing the clutch/brake in far enough to ease shifting. bad clutch adjustment can also cause this as well.
Does the transmission otherwise work properly. (move freely in all the gears when it's in the gears without any grinding or bogging or burning smells? Does it stop properly when you push the clutch and engage properly when you release it. If so the transmission itself is probably okay but the shift mechanism where it shifts going into the transmission may need work. Most of these tractors all use the exact same transmissions (even different manufacturers often are using the exact same motors and transmissions as other brands. So Craftsman, MTD, Cub Cadet, even John Deere may all have a briggs and stratton engine and the exact same 5 speed manual transmission or hydrostatic transmission under them but then just have different looks and features up top. Sometimes the shift points on the common manual transmission get a little rusty inside the transmission. It's basically a small spring loaded ball that pushes from one rounded hole to the next and each hole is a spot where it holds the trans in whatever gear you set it at. This can get rusty and sticky and inhibit shifting. If you are not a big do-it-yourself person, then this is probably not an easy fix as it requires pulling the transmission and opening up part of it to lubricate/clean where the shift lever moves inside the trans or replace that particular mechanism.
However, one thing that you can do that may help SOME but only as a temporary thing is to shift it back and forth rapidly between forward and reverse while stopped (the motor doesn't need to be running even). This is kind of like swinging a rusty door back and forth to break down the rust. it's not a true fix per-say, but it can help loosen up those shift points enough to get you through a season or so if you just need to keep it going for a while till you can find a cheaper more honest repair person. . On the other hand, if it's really bad, it could break that ball loose and just make the tractor inoperable until you get that fixed. The parts for that are much cheaper than the actual transmission though.
Make sure that when you reinstalled the rear tire, that you reinstalled the keyway into the axle. I think your wheel is probably just spinning on the axle. Otherwise, did you have to get rough with the wheel to take it off the axle??? Some of these trans have a snap ring on the inside of the unit that holds the axle in place. Hammering on the wheel can often cause the snap ring to come off internally in the trans.
I really hop you just missed putting the keyway back into the axle.
If it has the hydrostatic transmission, make certain that it moves at a good pace both forward and backward. Also, find a grade and drive up it. It should move up the hill without slowing down significantly.
Many transmissions in lawn tractors are not serviceable. If they go out, replacement is necessary; and these are not cheap.
You mention many PM issues but do not mention a blade sharpening. I don't get on my ZTR without a freshly honed blade installed. "That's" what cuts bahia grass...the blade. You can put all the horsepower you want behind the lade but if you're trying to cut grass with a 2X4 it rips more than cuts grass.