Question about Whirlpool Refrigerators
th ebi-metal is a thermostat which shuts the defrost heater on/off, but doesnt actually put the unit into defrost. if it were bad the defrost heater would never go on resulting in massive build up of ice on back wall of freezer, and noticable refrigeration sect. cooling.. dont know how you know the compressor never shuts down, but if that the case perhaps you have a sealed system/ freon issue. try removing the back panel of freezer section and check the evaporator coil. you shuld have an even frost pattern over the entire evap coil. if theres just frost over the top 1or 2 coils, and the rest of coil is shiny aluminum , thats an indication of a sealed system issue.( 5 year part warr by manufacture) def not a do it yourself issue...but that would,, depending on extent of restriction/loss of freon,, cause freezer to freeze and defrost eratically,and the compressor would be running constantly trying to achieve a good stable temp
Posted on Apr 02, 2008
The switch is broken and needs to be replaced.
This happens a lot
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This is the answer.
click solve please1
Posted on Dec 09, 2008
A refrig cannot pull 40 amps in defrost , unless there is a direct short in the defrost system ( timer , heater , bimetal ) . I would use an extention cord ( for test purposes only ) , and try a different plug . Sounds like the circuit breaker is weak . In defrost , the MOST you should get , is 6 amps . This will not throw a 40 amp breaker . If you have an amp meter , remove the back refrig panel behind the refrig , and connect to one of the power cord lines (just not the green ground ) , turn into defrost and check the amps . This will tell you if short is in refrig , or weak breaker .
Posted on Sep 06, 2009
if your food is staying cold your fridge is working fine,you probably have a blocked drain.you will find water under criper draws and maybe leaking out on floor,take off the back freezer wall and take out floor, melt out the drain and remove all the ice on freezer floor,now you have to clean out the drain,i use a steamer that you can buy for like 40 bucks,it's a shark super steamer,it will clean out all the slime that builds up in the drain line or you have to snake out the drain line with a plastic tie or something,when you think you cleaned out the line pour hot water into the drain and if the water goes down you know you unclogged it,you can buy a heater probe that installs down the drain and wraps around the heater so the line can't freeze up again,if this is not your problem you can advance the timer in the fridge side on the ceiling by turning it with a screw driver until it comes out of defrost and if it was sticking or not coming out of defrost on it's own change the timer the new part number for your timer is 2183400 hope this helps
Posted on Nov 24, 2009
cant find your model # but you know what its doing / so to correct this problem its one of two things . the defrost timer ( some times called (A D D C ) aditive defrost control . or the heater /thermo in the back of freezer . most comon it adc. mm hope this helped . feed back pls ..
Posted on Feb 04, 2010
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