When you say no power.I assume you have no current flow,because you state there is a voltage present.I can think of at least two possible routes to figure out what is going on.First you could try another load with your solar panel array,and see if it is producing its rated current at the voltage specified.Say the panel is rated at 24 watts for example.24 watts divided by 24 volts equals 1 amp.If you hook up a 24 ohm load to this array it should produce your 1 amp current flow,or in other words it should be able to maintain the 24 volts across the load at 1 amp.Thus your 24 watt output.Also check that your controller doesn't need more power input than the array can provide.Which is kind of leading to the other route you can take.You can also try placing a 24 volt dc source of sufficient output power across your pump controller and see if it will operate.Two car batteries in series would work.
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A million possibilities. You need a volt meter set to A/C volts. Find the circuit board where all of the thermostat wires connect. Place 1 lead from the meter to "C" and the other to "W" (make sure that the door safety switch is pushed in and the thermostat is set to call for heat) If you do get 24-30 volts then the thermostat is doing its job and the trouble is inside the furnace.If not, check "R" & "C" to see if the furnace transformer is sending 24-30 volts to the thermostat.
Well you need to get out the DVOM - digital volt ohm meter an check for battery voltage at the fuel pump relay ! if you replaced it you saw the holes it plugs into in the relay / fuse box ? Put you volt meter on the 20 volt scale , hook the black lead to the battery negative or a good engine ground an take the red lead an touch - don't stick it in an spread the terminals . Two of the holes should have battery voltage ,if not check the EEC power relay ! If you find voltage at two holes change the meter to ohms , leave the black connector on a good ground an touch the red to the two holes left , one should be open or OL on the meter , this is the control side from the engine computer . the last hole should show a few ohms resistance , this is down through the wiring to an through the fuel pump to ground . You have two different wiring circuits , control an load side , load side being power to the fuel pump an control side is power an the engine computer supplying a ground energizing the relay closing the contacts in the relay sending battery voltage to the fuel pump. Test don't guess !
This can be for a variety of reasons. It ranges from something as simple as no supply power (blown fuse, open breaker, faulty contactor, or run capacitor) or it could be more serious as a grounded or open winding in the compressor motor. My suggestion to any novice and or person without proper tools and knowledge; First check the low voltage (24 volt control voltage) by turning on the "Fan on" switch located on the thermostat to on, not "Auto" The blower fan should come on, indicating there's 120 volt and 24 volt available. Fan doesn't come on is an indication that there's no control power. The next step would be to check for power at the transformer and fuse located in the air handler. There should be 240 volts feeding the transformer, and 24 volts coming out. The control voltage is needed to operate the thermostat (which is the switch that sends the 24 volt signal to the compressor contactor to turn the compressor on/off. This 24 volt also powers other relays and switches in the system. knowing that 24 volt is available also tells you that the problem is most likely in the condensing unit (outside, where the compressor is located). At the condensing unit you should check for 240 volt supply power. Upon finding 240 volt supply power the question now becomes whether or not the thermostat is calling for anything (cool or heat if the unit is a heat pump). There should be 24-30 volt available at the small gauge wires feeding the contactor coil. While having the thermostat set at a temperature lower than the current room temperature (in the cooling mode) the thermostat should send a 24 volt signal to close the compressor contactor and turn it on. The non-metallic end of a screwdriver can be used to depress the moveable part of the contactor. After pushing in the contactor, should the compressor start then you may only need a new contactor. It may just hum because of a faulty run capacitor or grounded or shorted internal motor windings (grounded or shorted windings are usually indicated by tripped circuit breaker and/or blown fuse). It's a good idea to have a good multi-meter and knowledge of use before attempting any repairs or diagnosis on your own. I recommend some basic knowledge of electricity before even thinking about attempting any repairs or diagnosis.
When you are testing the contactor on a coil, you should remove the tstat wires then hook up your voltage meter to the wires then turn on your tstat check the meter to be sure u are getting 24 volts.
If you are getting 24 volts, put wires back in place on contactor then measure voltage across the contactor to see if you are getting 24 volts. If there isnt 24 volts then the contactor coil is bad and needs to be replaced.
Hello! The required voltage is 24 volts...which means two 12 volt batteries connected in series...It sounds as if you have two 12 volt batteries connected in parallel...Which doubles the amps and leaves the voltage at 12 volts...Connect the negative of one battery to the positive of the second battery...Then from the positive of battery #1 to the negative of battery #2 is the required 24 volts for the Kole...Guru...saailer
sounds like you have a good feel for what your doing. do you have a volt meter? if so look for 24 volt at the gas valve just before the glow bar starts to cool down each time. if 24 volt shows then look first for blocked orifices into the burner and next replace the valve. no power to the valve look to the control board
Red or R is the "Hot leg" of the Transformers 24volt supply,
Common or C is the "Neutral leg" of the Transformers 24 volt supply;
and the side of power to which ALL the 24 volt control circuits
terminate to complete the circuit, example; Heat=W, Cool=Y, Fan=G.
Upon a call for heat a switch closes betwen the Red and White Thermostat terminals.
The stat sends the 24 volts to White or W for the heat circuit on W on the
furnaces LVTB low voltage terminal board.
Yellow or Y goes from Thermostat to furnace Y on LVTB, which is simply
a connecting point on its way to the AC units 24v contactor coil located outdoors.
It actually isnt even attached to the furnace many times as it serves no purpose there and simply
continues to the AC unit with the copper lineset that the AC unit feeds.
The remaing 24 volt Thermostat wire goes back to common on transformer to complete the Yellow
24 volt control circuit.
Green or G exits the Thermostat and connects to G on LVTB for the fan relays 24volt coil
and returns to Common to complete the Green 24 volt control circuit.
O is for a Heat pump reversing valves 24 volt solenoid, and return to Common as all 24v circuits must to terminate or complete the circuit.
Some parasitic type Termostats need the 24v power to run, some are battery, some are both.
If you're wiring up 120 volts to the primary then you need to connect H1 and H3 together, then connect H2 and H4 together. Then connect one side of line (120 volts) to H1 and H3 and connect the other side of line (120 volts) to H2 and H4. Then for the 24 volts secondary X1 is one side of your 24 volts and X2 is the other side of your 24 volts.
For 240 volt primary connect H2 and H3 together, Then connect one side of your Primary (240 volts) to H1 and connect the other side of your primary (240 volts to H4. Then your Secondary 24 volts is still X1 and X2.
Turn off the power to the DW. Remove the screws holding the door panel on(not the control panel screws). Remove the "toekick" panel from the bottom of the DW. The pump will be in front of you. Use a volt meter to check for power to the pump. If there is power,remove the pump and check for a blockage. If no blockage you can make a 120 volt test cord to power the pump to see if it works.
Unplug the power then unplug the 24 pin power connection from the mother board and take paper clip bend it so you can insert it into the holes where the green and the black wire are next to each other, Next you will need a multi meter. Set the multi meter to read dc volts 20 take the red lead and put it into the purple wire hole of the 24 pin connection and the black lead in to the hole with the Black wire on the 24 pin connection. the reading on the Multi meter should read 5.0 volts if it does not and you get a reading of 6.01 or higher then the Mother board has been burnt out and you will need to replace the motherboard and power supply I have been a onsite tech for E-machine for the last 5 years and this has been an ongoing problem with the power supply.