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Re: dont sound right starting when hot
Batteries will charge up alittle over nite, so first thing in the morning you have the most juice. It could be a battery on the way out or a problem with your charging system not quite meeting all the needs of your bike.
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sounds like the ignition switch might have shorted inside water maybe there are specific test to find out youll need a test light and a repair manual to tell you the results you should find make sure to unplug each connector to switch and plug them back in to make sure contact isnt the prob kinda new to need a switch but stranger things have happened
test or replace your ignition module,and you might find the actual prob by accident the connector for the module sometimes with age lose or only have intermittant contact.a can of electrical contact cleaner should take care of it but those symptoms scream ignition mod dont know why hd dealer couldnt find it but they dont put their best techs on older bikes
Very common on h-d big twins for the last 75 years or so. These bikes have a dry sump oil system which means you have 2 oil pumps, feed and scavenge. The feed pump is very puny compaired to the scavenge, so at idle (especially when hot) it carries only a couple of pounds of pressure and that is all you need. The scavenge pump has a much greater capacity because if it can't keep up the crancase will start filling up and the crank will start slogging through the oil, killing performance. These bikes are equipped with hydraulic valve lifters which will start clanking loudly if you have a real oil pressure problem. Enjoy your ride and don't sweat it.
What u are describing is typical of a faulty ignition system, but could also be a fuel problem. I check by removing the aircleaner and rotating the throttle. If u see a nice spray of fuel, thats probably not the problem. Check for a spark at the plugs. I can explain how if you need me to. If you cant see a good spark, U have an electrical problem. I had a crank position sensor go bad on me. Dont do what I did (replaced the battery, ignition, and regulator as part of my diagnosis procedure)
Sounds like a mapping issue with whatever f.i. add on you have. could also be the pintle sticking on the throttle body. take the air cleaner off, look at the inside of the throttle body. at the top there will be a little hole. that's where the pintle is. it retracts and expands for cold starting and hot idle as well. if you turn the bike on and off it should cycle. ( extend and retract ) if it doesn't then the pintle needs to be replaced.
Just a couple questions, then I'll see if I can point you in the right direction. Did you purchase from the dealer or individual? What exactly is it doing when you hit the switch?
If I don't get back to you tonight, I will tomorrow morning. It's a beautiful evening here in Missouri The hurricane has pushed some real nice 70 degree weather up here, and it beats the hell out of the 100 degree heat we've been having. So, I'm gonna ride.
This is going to be a problem with the starter. When a starter is getting a bit on the worn side, high temps will cause the electric motor not to engage creating the same clicking sound as if the battery was dead or had a bad contact.
really need more info on bike, not much to go on. if it is fuel injected, the first culprit i would check is the temperature sensor. on start up, you need a richer mix and thus higher idle. if a carb bike, i would first check ignition timing because if something is mis-skewing and the advance is too much, it will idle higher
Sounds like you may have blown one of the radio fuses. Don't know about that radio but usually there is one fuse red wire for the key hot and one fuse for the radio memory yellow wire and one of em is blown. I don't know if there are security codes for those radios or not if both of the fuses are good. Dont know if it will be a main radio fuse just in the main fusebox or block or if there is another or other fused in the fairing.