Question about Fisher and Paykel 23 in. DD-603SS Built-in Dishwasher

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Bottom drawer cant get drawer out to get screws out from side walls

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Look on the bottom side below the front. You will find two clips that can be pushed in to remove the drawer.

Posted on Nov 08, 2008

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My fisher & paykel dd603 top drawer is sticking and won't close without force. After taking it all the way out, we saw the the top piece (inside the dishwasher) is loose and is obstructing and pr


The drawer lid seal is the problem. It is likely the actuator motors controlling the lid position are either faulty or need rebalancing. Happens if the dishwasher lost power in the middle of the cycle or the drawer got pulled out when running. It is a big job to fix as the lid seal and actuator yoke and arms will need to be taken out and refitted. ALos it is likely the gaskets on the lid seal could be damaged and need replacement.

Jan 02, 2014 | Fisher and Paykel 23 in. DD-603SS Built-in...

1 Answer

Bottom drawer does not have a hard stop. Drawer will roll right off the door and on to the floor


check the level of the Dw per the instructions.. may need to raise the front up... If you take the front kick plate off( 2 screws) there are 2 white feet at the front... also phillips screws above(inset) that control the height of the back 2 feet.
Manual tells you where to place the level.. for plumb levelling the manuals stated to put the level on the front side of the cabinet( where the door closes on to)... on the vertical side. Adjust the front feet down, or the back ones upward( need to watch to keep the side to side level when doing this too...

Good luck

Oct 04, 2010 | LG LDS4821WW 24 in. Built-in Dishwasher

3 Answers

My drawers are both flashing F1 and sound as though they are in high gear. I have unplugged them. Please advise. Please give detailed instructions.


F1 signifies that the flood sensor in the rear of the cavity on the bottom drawer has been activated. This is caused by water leaking into the rear of the drawer. I have had the same problem with my own and also repaired a friends unit which was doing the likewise.

Firstly you will need to remove the bottom drawer and dry out the flood sensor. Turn the unit off at the wall power outlet before you touch anything! You need to pull the drawer out fully and then activate the tabs on the left and right side at the bottom front of the drawer to move in move it out further and off the tracks.
Make sure you have some towels on the floor in front of the unit. Once you have the drawer out lay it on it's right side on top of the towels. There will be an amount of water still in the unit which will likely drain onto the towels as you do so. Now you will be able to see into the drawer cavity, preferably with a torch, and also see the flood sensor on the rear left hand side. You should also notice a fair bit of water in the bottom of the cavity. As you've made sure the power is off, you can mop up the water.
The plastic cover over the flood sensor can be gently removed by pressing down and sliding it to the right. Once the cover is off you can again mop up the excess water before using a hairdryer to fully dry the flood sensor out. Don't put the hairdryer too close to the flood sensor, just let the warm air slowly dry things out over a 10-15min period.
Once it is all dried reverse the above instructions to put the unit back together. Be sure to make certain the both the left and right tabs are engaged when you are putting the drawer back onto the rails. There should be a positive click if they are engaged properly. If not undo them fully and try again. You will notice that if either side is not engaged properly the drawer won't run in and out smoothly.

Now you can try to run each drawer. I prefer to test the top one first on a short rinse cycle. If that runs without any problems do the same of for the lower drawer. If you don't get any errors you're in business. If you do then read on for further help.

If the F1 code comes up after running either drawer then you've narrowed down which one is the problem. You will again need to remove the offending drawer and check the drainage hose. There will likely be a split at some point along the drainage hose. It's quite fiddly to remove the old one. Note: You can only get a replacement hose from an authorised parts supplier. This is due to the narrow diameter of the hose and the couple which joins the pump under the drawer. Before you throw the old one out, make sure you remove the small rubber valve. It would appear to prevent backflow into the pump and is not supplied with the replacement.
I didn't totally remove the clear housing from the motor assembly, but was able to remove it part way and gently open it enough to get the old hose out. In order to more easily complete the fit of the new hose, I would recommend carefully removing the whole unit from the wall cavity. Make sure you disconnect the inlet hose, power and drainage hoses under your sink. This allows the unit to move freely from the cavity without damaging anything. There are four securing tabs inside the bottom drawer cavity which need to be removed to do this. (All quite clear in the instruction manual).
If you are at this stage I would also recommend installing the 'retro fit link support'. It is much more practical and robust when compared to the plastic one the originally came with the unit. It has a metal rod and a mount that fits into the corner of the draw cavity. Makes much more sense than the plastic rod that came with the units I've repaired.

Jun 28, 2010 | Fisher and Paykel 23 in. DD-603SS Built-in...

3 Answers

F1 flashing both drawers


F1 signifies that the flood sensor in the rear of the cavity on the bottom drawer has been activated. This is caused by water leaking into the rear of the drawer. I have had the same problem with my own and also repaired a friends unit which was doing the likewise.

Firstly you will need to remove the bottom drawer and dry out the flood sensor. Turn the unit off at the wall power outlet before you touch anything! You need to pull the drawer out fully and then activate the tabs on the left and right side at the bottom front of the drawer to move in move it out further and off the tracks.
Make sure you have some towels on the floor in front of the unit. Once you have the drawer out lay it on it's right side on top of the towels. There will be an amount of water still in the unit which will likely drain onto the towels as you do so. Now you will be able to see into the drawer cavity, preferably with a torch, and also see the flood sensor on the rear left hand side. You should also notice a fair bit of water in the bottom of the cavity. As you've made sure the power is off, you can mop up the water.
The plastic cover over the flood sensor can be gently removed by pressing down and sliding it to the right. Once the cover is off you can again mop up the excess water before using a hairdryer to fully dry the flood sensor out. Don't put the hairdryer too close to the flood sensor, just let the warm air slowly dry things out over a 10-15min period.
Once it is all dried reverse the above instructions to put the unit back together. Be sure to make certain the both the left and right tabs are engaged when you are putting the drawer back onto the rails. There should be a positive click if they are engaged properly. If not undo them fully and try again. You will notice that if either side is not engaged properly the drawer won't run in and out smoothly.

Now you can try to run each drawer. I prefer to test the top one first on a short rinse cycle. If that runs without any problems do the same of for the lower drawer. If you don't get any errors you're in business. If you do then read on for further help.

If the F1 code comes up after running either drawer then you've narrowed down which one is the problem. You will again need to remove the offending drawer and check the drainage hose. There will likely be a split at some point along the drainage hose. It's quite fiddly to remove the old one. Note: You can only get a replacement hose from an authorised parts supplier. This is due to the narrow diameter of the hose and the couple which joins the pump under the drawer. Before you throw the old one out, make sure you remove the small rubber valve. It would appear to prevent backflow into the pump and is not supplied with the replacement.
I didn't totally remove the clear housing from the motor assembly, but was able to remove it part way and gently open it enough to get the old hose out. In order to more easily complete the fit of the new hose, I would recommend carefully removing the whole unit from the wall cavity. Make sure you disconnect the inlet hose, power and drainage hoses under your sink. This allows the unit to move freely from the cavity without damaging anything. There are four securing tabs inside the bottom drawer cavity which need to be removed to do this. (All quite clear in the instruction manual).
If you are at this stage I would also recommend installing the 'retro fit link support'. It is much more practical and robust when compared to the plastic one the originally came with the unit. It has a metal rod and a mount that fits into the corner of the draw cavity. Makes much more sense than the plastic rod.

You do need to be reasonably handy to undertake this task. Best of luck.

Jun 22, 2010 | Fisher and Paykel 23 in. DD-603SS Built-in...

1 Answer

Flooding DS603


Hi now to see if the lid is closing open the drawer and on the left and right sides of the drawer you will see a round plastic locking tab.In the middle of the tab you will see a molded center that you can grab with long nose pliers. Grab hold of the center and pull them out away from the drawer. now once you do this pull the front cover down gently and remove the earth wire attached. Now close the drawer and select a cycle and push start.When you push start look to the bottom left and bottom right and you will see the lid actuators. are they the screw type or the solonoid type?now if they are the screw type then you will see a threaded rod screwing down as the lid closes..The side that could be faulty, or not closing properly, is the threaded rod that doesnt come down as far as the other one.On your other question there is a micro-switch at the end of the sliding rail that activates when the drawer is closed.see how you go and if you need further help please reply.please turn off power before you remove the front cover.

Jun 03, 2010 | Fisher and Paykel 24 in. DS-603 Built-in...

1 Answer

I havve a Fisher and Paykel Dishdrawer model No. DD601v2. The top draw was stuck in the out position. I fear that the top of the shell casing of the dishwasher is rusted and is blocking the smooth...


When the machine operates a lid comes down on the top of the drawer. This may be jamming.
On the side near the front at the bottom there are 2 plastic slotted screw heads, turn these to horozontal and pull out the "screws" this will release the drawer from the runners and you can lift off the drawer and possibly see whats jamming.

Jul 03, 2009 | Dishwashers

1 Answer

Bottom Draw Wont Close


Check the sides of the drawer on the dishwasher and make sure that the sliders that the drawer rides on are not locked in place you will notice on the front of the slider near the door panel there are plastic clip like press in tabs that hold the drawer securely in the tracks try to put your hand up under the door and move the track if the track moves in the slider you will need to hold the door secuely with one hand while sliding the track to the most open position on the slider track. if the sliders are not locked in you will be able to pull the slider forward and the slider should clip into place.Repeat this for both sides and the door should operate like new once again.

Jan 08, 2009 | Fisher and Paykel 23 in. DD-603SS Built-in...

1 Answer

Bottom drawer locked (stuck) open


fisher and paykel sent me a solution - turn off at wall and unplug then turn back on. The dishwasher reset itself and the drawer unlocked.

Nov 24, 2008 | Fisher and Paykel 23 in. DD-603SS Built-in...

1 Answer

Fisher and Paykel Dishdrawer beeping constantly


leave it unpluged to stop for now, the machine has detected a leak and is constantly running hte pumps within the drawers to try to remove any water.. problrm is the water detector is in bottom under the lower drawer and htere is no pump to remove that water ..canbge a fickle machine as far as leaks are concerned, but the easy reason is usually misloading of the drawer itself, was an item put in that was too tall , preventing the lid from coming down and sealing off drawer causing water to overflow down the side??? there should be(so logn as no previous repairmen have taken it) a tech/trubleshooing guide taped to teh back wall behind the lower drawer, which is easily removed by unlocking hte hinges on either side of the front of drawer, explained in your manual

Nov 03, 2008 | Fisher and Paykel 23 in. DD-603SS Built-in...

1 Answer

Fisher pykel original dish drawer


if you pull out the lower drawer, there s aside release pin on either side of bottom corner of hte drawers when extended. a small maybe quarter sized hole( no need to mess with that only removes the face panel) but under it is a release that you can push in and back a little, this will unlock from the drawer hinges(slides) just nee to lift up and over to the left slightly, on the back wall behind hte drawer youll find a pretty good trouble shooter for this model, itll tell you what hte code is and will try to walk you through as to what might of happened as well as recommended repair

Mar 26, 2008 | Fisher and Paykel 23 in. DD-603SS Built-in...

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