Question about Mackie SWA1501 Subwoofer
For starters, you need to find out if it's the same speaker cutting out each time. Next time it stops, chuck a bit of tape on it so you know which one it is.
Also, try to eliminate the obvious problems, like the cables. The easiest way to do this is buy all new cables, but that's expensive! If you're running all 4 in mono, daisy chaining the signal between each, then you can work out dependant on where the faulty speaker is in the chain. The signal will go in this order; Sub - spk1 - spk2 - spk3 - spk4.
If spk2 stops working, and 3 & 4 keep working, then the signal is obviously getting through, and you can pretty much rule out a cabling problem. If spk4 cuts out, try changing the order so you can eliminate the cable problem.
I've had 415's cut out in the past when they have been too hot. This is because they're being driven too hard, often with too much low-end being driven. A few simple tings to check;
make sure all the 415's are running at the same volume, on the gain pot on the back of the speakers. If you have the volume up high on 1 speaker, it will obviously be working harder than the rest, and is more likely to over-heat!
Check that you're using the HP filtered output from the sub. It's got a built in crossover which removes the bass signal. This means that the sub only works on making the bass sound, and the 415's only have to make the mid-high sound. (sorry if this is all **** you know already!) It basically allows them to work more efficiently. If you're running the full-range output from the sub, it's still sending lots of bass signal to the 415's, which makes them work harder, and they're more likely to overheat. When they do overheat, a thermal switch cuts the power, and the speaker stops working until it cools down sufficiently. That would explain why the speaker goes off, and after you've fiddled with the cables for a while, it comes back on.
It's a while since I've used 415's, but from memory they have a basic eq curve, which is selectable using a switch on the back panel. I'm pretty sure it cuts the mids only, and doesn't actually bost the bass, but it might be worth checking to see if the problematic speaker has this switch pressed, and the others dont.
Hopefully there's something in there which might help!
Posted on Nov 08, 2008
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
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