Question about Washing Machines
It is recommended that you replace the rubber seal rather than try to repair it. It is not a difficult repair and the rubber seal generally runs about $80. Most appliance repair places will charge more for the part, plus a labor charge. The result could be a repair bill of over $200. If you would like to attempt the repair yourself, here's how:
1. Unplug the washer.
2. Remove the washer top panel by removing the three torx-type screws (or 7mm) where it attaches in the rear of the washer. The panel should slide back, then lift off.
3. Remove the operator console by removing the dispenser and the scew(s) behind it. Take a putty knife and insert it under the console seam right above the door. If you push in slightly while pulling outwards the panel pops off. Use care not to pull or damage any of the wiring. You can leave the wires attached and simply lay the console across the top of the washer out of the way.
4. Locate the wire hoop retainer around the rubber door boot. It is located behind the rubber seam where it attaches to the door frame. Follow this hoop around to the bottom of the door opening and locate the wire tension spring. Gently pry this spring apart and pull the wire hoop from the groove. Pull the rubber boot from the frame and push it inside towards the wash tub. You will also have to remove the door boot from the fill tube on the left hand side of the door opening. There is a small wire clamp holding it in place.
5. Remove the three screws that hold the door latch assembly in place. This is on the right hand side of the door opening. You can leave the latch in place as long as you remove the screws and push it inside slightly to remove it from the front casing of the washer.
6. Remove the door by removing the screws holding the hinges in place. Use care to support the door hinges when loosening. They can bend. Set the door aside in a location where it will not get stepped on or broken.
7. Remove the lower kick panel under the door. There are 3 screws under the bottom edge holding it in place. Sometimes the panel can stick. A slight tap on either side will knock it free.
8. Remove the front washer casing by removing the four remaining screws that are holding it in place. There should be two at the top and two at the bottom. Set the front casing aside.
9. Remove the old door boot by locating the large clamp that attaches it to the wash tub. Loosen the 7mm nut and the boot will dettach from the tub.
10. Install new door boot on the wash tub and install clamp. There should be instructions that come with the door boot with guide marks to ensure you align it correctly. Once you have the boot in place, tighten the clamp enough to where it is snug. DO NOT over-tighten or you may damage the tub and or clamp. In most cases the clamp will break.
11. Once you have the boot in place, re-install everything in the reverse order of how I explained to disassemble. Make sure you connect the door latch assembly BEFORE you re-install the outer portion of the door boot. Also, make sure you install the boot completely over the fill tube. Sometimes the tube is not inserted all way into the boot and water will leak behind it. If you cannot get the clamp to go back over the tube, you can live without it. Some newer models do not have them installed. Just make sure it is a snug fit where the rubber boot fits ALL the way back to the plastic ridge on the tube.
12. When you get the point where you are ready to install the door boot back over the frame of the door opening ensure you fit it snugly all the way around the door. Then, beginning at the top start inserting the wire hoop back into the groove. Make sure to wire spring points towards the bottom. As you work your way around the door to the 4 and 8 o'clock positions, you will need to maintain some constant downward pressure while pulling the spring apart in order to snap it back into place. It would be adviseable to use a second set of hands to hold the wire hoop in place while doing this as it has the tendency to want to come out of the groove.
13. Once the door boot is back in place, re-install the operator console and washer top.
14. At the operator console, select DRAIN SPIN, NO SPIN and press any button under OPTIONS 4 times (has to be the same button, though). This will place the washer in diagnostics mode. You should hear the door latch lock and "C00" will be displayed on the console. The washer will run through a series of tests filling the tub, tumbling, draining, then a final spin. If you do not wish to wait for the test to complete you can press CANCEL at any time. The test checks out everything and takes about 15 minutes. Look for any leaks.
I hope you find these instructions helpful. Let me know if you have any further/questions and concerns. Good Luck to you.
Posted on Nov 30, 2007
hmmm..let's see..sounds like you have some residue accumulating from something possibly seeping into the tub. That can be old rubber, a metal sheath, or even an leak of lubricant. Like an old car, there are parts of every mechanical device that need to be attended to.
I'd recommend you find the most seasoned person that works on older machines, to come by and assess what is 'leaking' on your clothing. Grey comes from something metallic or rubber/plastic.
Hope you can solve this one, and keep that old machine happy.
Posted on Feb 19, 2008
ck dryer ..look at seals front and rear for brown rust color they should black or dark gray if they are brown best bet is to replace both ..although it's kind of unusal to have them discolor this early any thing is possible what could be happening as the clothes are drying and they go past and against the seals they are picking up the stains
Posted on Aug 21, 2008
I can assure you this IS a common problem. I can't tell you how many customers I have had in the past that complained about their Calypso's leaving the same marks on their clothing. The problem occurs because of the suction on the clothes as the washer extracts water from them during the final nunator cycle. The nunator is the wash plate that the clothes get caught in. The manufacturer's cure for this problem was to come up with a modified control board that reduces the final nunator time and minimizes the suction action on your clothing. The replacement control board part number is 8571359. I have ordered and installed this board on a few Calypso's. I'm surprised that nobody advised you of this in the past. If you call Whirpool back and they deny this, I got this information from them. It may be worth your while to contact them again to see if there is a recall on this and if they would cover the cost of the repairs.
Posted on Aug 22, 2008
more than likly it is coming from the dryer. get a paper towel or a towel and run it between the inside of the drum and the front where they come together. stick it through the slot and run around the drum. do the front then do the back see if you see the same streaks. and let me know thanks
Posted on Jun 02, 2009
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Pour 2/3 cup of liquid chlorine bleach into the bleach compartment of the dispenser drawer of your Maytag Neptune front-loading washer.
Run your Maytag Neptune front-loading washer on the "Clean Washer" setting. Press "Start" to start the cycle.
Leave the door open once the cycle is complete to allow the inside of your Maytag Neptune front-loading washer to ventilate and air dry.
Look closely at the gray seal of the Maytag Neptune front-loading washer's door opening. This seal can have a buildup of debris or detergent residue.
Spray the seal with an all-purpose appliance cleaner and scrub away any debris or residue with a cloth or scrubbing pad. Dry with a clean cloth.
Remove the soap dispenser drawer. Press the release lever and lift it out to clean.
Take out the inserts and rinse them and the drawer thoroughly.
Wash with a mild soap and cloth to remove any residue. Dry thoroughly before replacing.
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