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Hotpoint dishwasher water keeps collecting on bottom

Water keeps collecting at the bottom after cycle

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aborcass
  • 2651 Answers

SOURCE: dishwasher not draining

try pressing the cancel/drain button.Do you hear water draining into sink freely?? if not i would disconnect drain undersink look for a clog right there first

Posted on Feb 22, 2008

  • 3 Answers

SOURCE: DISHWASHER IS LEAKING A LOT OF WATER

I had the same problem with my machine - ie lots of water coming out front about two thirds of the way through the cycle - engineer (local and very reliable) knew as soon as he came in that I had started bying Powerball 5 dishwasher tablets - they produce too much foam (try opening the door during the cycle and see the amount of foam) and it therefore comes out of the overflow parts on the door. I tried Magnum 5 and got the same problem. Now I stick to either Asda's own basic (not the 5) or I buy the Magnum ones and cut them in half. Has never leaked since!

Posted on Aug 25, 2007

  • 641 Answers

SOURCE: Dishwasher not spraying

It could be a motor or a pump issue. The dishwasher has a motor that attached to a pump which forces the water up into the sprayer arms and during the drain cycle, it pushes the water out of the dishwasher. The motor (and pump) located beneath the dishwasher. Good luck!

Posted on Sep 13, 2007

  • 108 Answers

SOURCE: hotpoint aquarius dishwasher

Oversudsing
This can be due to using a laundry or handwash detergent instead of a specific dishwasher detergent instead. It could also be due to excessive amounts of rinse aid in the dispenser or certain food soils that contain a high level of protein such as eggs.

Posted on Jul 07, 2008

jsrock516
  • 5911 Answers

SOURCE: After dishwasher was in cycle, I returned to

The symptoms you describe, sounds like it could be caused by a worn door seal. Over time, these seals compress to the point where they no longer seal correctly, or food particles and grime get caught between the door and seal and leave small air gaps.

The silverware tray (if located along the left or right side) can also cause damage to the door seal as utensils get caught on the seal surface as you roll the lower rack in and out of the tub. As water splashes up against the inner door facing it rolls out the bottom of the door, or down along the sides instead of staying in the tub.

Some other items that can contribute to leaking are:

1. A dishwasher that is not level, which causes the door not to seal properly.

2. The inner door panel being warped causing the door facing not to be even for the gasket to seat properly.

3, Dish placement. If you place bowls, serving trays and large tumblers in the front row of the bottom rack on some dishwashers it can contribute to water being deflected over the front edge of the tub and out the bottom of the door (Believe it or not, I've seen it happen).

NOTE: Most dishwashers do not have a seal across the front lip of the tub. That's why it's important to have a good door seal and to load it properly.

If you've loaded the dishwasher properly and confirmed it is level (front to back and side to side), then here are your options:

1. Replace the inner door panel at a cost of over $100.

2. Replace the door seal at a cost of about $35-$40.

If you need parts, they can be purchased from any of the following websites:

searspartsdirect.com
appliancepartspros.com
pcappliancerepair.com
repairclinic.com

I have found these to be the cheapest and most reliable sites to order parts from. Shop all of them for the best price.

NOTE: The inner door panel is usually listed under the Door Parts section. The tub gasket will be listed under the Tub Parts section.
I would pursue the cheaper option, first. Its also the much simpler option. To replace the door seal, follow these steps:

1. Pull the old door seal from the groove around the wash tub facing. Take note of which surface area of the gasket is inserted in the groove and which surface is facing the door. It may not seal properly if you install the gasket the wrong way.

2. Clean the area really well to ensure there are no food debris or soap deposits. Also clean the inner door area where the door meets the gasket. You need a clean surface for the best results.

3. Locate the center mark of the new gasket. This will be a small paint spot or small groove on the gasket (this surface is the side of the gasket that will be inserted in the groove around the tub facing). If there is no center mark, fold the gasket in half and mark the location with some chalk, or hold with your fingers.

4. Locate the top center part of the wash tub facing and align the center mark of the door gasket at that point. Begin pushing the gasket into the groove with your hands and work your way around and down along each side.

5. Make sure the gasket is inserted all the way around the tub facing to the point where it meets the wash tub bottom. You can pull the gasket out and readjust as necessary.

This repair should take you about 30 minutes or less to complete. Its simple and requires no tools. The door will be tough the shut for a while until the gasket compresses and takes the door shape. Do not slam the door if it becomes difficult to shut. Simply close the door and the push firmly at the point just above the door latch until the latch clicks. Slamming the door can damage the control panel components, the door latch and/or the hinges.

If you have questions, or require additional assistance, please post back with a complete model number so that I may be able to provide you with better service. hope this helps you.

Posted on Nov 10, 2009

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Sediment is collecting in the bottom and on the dishes. I have tried a cleaning cycle but it doesn't work.


First perform a vinegar cycle wash in the dishwasher. Pour a cup of vinegar into the bottom of the dishwasher. Keep the temperature at the highest setting possible and perform a wash cycle.Then start using a dishwasher most probably that would solve the problem. If this does not solve the problem then there must be some parts worn out or faulty creating the problem.

There are many probable causes of failure .

To clean the dishes the water temperature is essential.It the water is not hot then the dishes will not be cleaned properly.So check the water temperature.

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Hotpoint LFT 228 A dishwasher intermittent draining problems. Sometimes so much water that it leaks, will drain sometimes but then water appears in the filter again, items in dishwasher sometimes come out...


First perform a vinegar cycle wash in the dishwasher. Pour a cup of vinegar into the bottom of the dishwasher. Keep the temperature at the highest setting possible and perform a wash cycle.Then start using a dishwasher most probably that would solve the problem. If this does not solve the problem then there must be some parts worn out or faulty creating the problem.

There are many probable causes of failure .

To clean the dishes the water temperature is essential.It the water is not hot then the dishes will not be cleaned properly.So check the water temperature.

Also check the filter in your dishwasher.Clean the filter if there is accumulation of debris in the filter

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Have a rental property with F&P two draw dishwasher aprox five years old. Apparently bottom draw is holding water - what do you think?


Could be many reasons for the bottom drawer to hold water.

It could be leaky top drawer causing water to collect in the bottom drawer. Check if water collects when top drawer is running.

It could be blockage in the bottom drawer drainage which can be fixed by cleaning the filter plate and the drain sump. If the drain pump is not running during drain cycle then you will have to replace the drain pump motor.

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1 Answer

Water is collecting at the bottom. Where is it


Refrigerators have a defrost water drain that carries water produced during the defrost cycle to the bottom of the refrigerator where it flows into a catch pan. The water is then evaporated by heat from the compressor and refrigerant coils.

Something is likely blocked in your drain system. There is usually a catch basin in the rear of the refrigerator behind the inside lining. From that catch basin, water flows into tubes which usually run down the back of the refrigerator. The drain in the catch basin may be stopped up, or the tube itself could be blocked.

Oct 15, 2009 | Refrigerators

2 Answers

Dishwasher keeps pumping out - won't start cycle - green light flashing on panel


I had same symptoms on a Hotpoint dishwasher.
Turned out to be a failed water heater.
The logic in this case goes like this:
When wash cycle starts, the first thing the machine does is pump out any water that has collected in the sump since it was last run.
It then allows a small amount of clean water in and enables the water heater.
If heater okay, it then continues with the rest of cycle.
In this case, the control board detected failed heater so pumps out the water and then stops with an error code shown by a flashing lamp.

No simple fix I'm afraid - machine had to be turned on its side, bottom panel removed, several items had to be removed to get at the water heater which was then repalced with a new one.

You dont state what make/model your dishwasher is so maybe worth adding this information as someone else may recognise your fault and have a quick fix.

Oct 02, 2009 | Dishwashers

1 Answer

Water leaking into fridge


Unless you have a lot of confidence in your ability as a handy person and plumber, it may be better to leave this to a pro. Here's the story.

When the freezer automatically defrosts, water from the melted ice collects into a tray behind the back panel of the freezer. There is a drain in this tray, and the drain empties into a pvc tube that carries the water down into an evaporation tray that extends from front to back on the bottom right side of the refrigerator. A fan blows air over the evaporation tray to dry the water in the tray before the next defrost cycle.

Over time, the drain tube gets partly clogged with gunk, the water in the upper collection tray doesn't drain completely into the lower tray, and when the defrost cycle ends, the water still in that upper tray freezes. After a few defrost cycles, enough ice forms in the collection tray so it blocks the drain completely, and this plug won't melt during the defrost cycle. Now every time there is a defrost cycle, water collects, overflows, and drips down through the air channel at the back of the fridge into the refrigerator section.

The fix is to clear the drain tube leading from the upper collection tray to the lower evaporation tray. Here's how (if you have the know-how to tackle the job):

First, move the fridge away from the wall, unplug it, and remove the fiberboard panel that runs across the the bottom back. From the front of the fridge pull out the trim grill that runs across the bottom. Locate the evaporator tray on the right, but don't remove it yet.

Empty the freezer, and be sure to safely store the removed items in another freezer, or an insulated cooler, if you can complete the job in an hour or two. Be careful with ice cream and such, which cannolt be allowd to defrost, even partially.

Remove the ice maker if you have one, remove the screws holding down the bottom panel of the freezer, remove it, and remove the screws holding the back panel, and remove it.

Leave the refrigerator door closed, to keep the food in it from spoiling. If this job is going to take you more than an hour or two, move the food in the fridge to another fridge.

Now you need to let the freezer defrost (a hair dryer will make it go faster, but don't let it get wet), and sponge out all the water, There will remain an ice plug in the drain at the bottom of the collection tray at the back. Use hot water to dissolve the ice plug, use a drinking straw inserted into the drain (don't let it drop!) to be sure the ice plug is melted.

You still have to clear the plastic drain tube of collected gunk. This is like snaking out a drain pipe. I found that 8 feet of 1/8 pvc tubing works well. Before you clear the drain tube, remove the lower evporation tray. There is a finger hole at the front. Use it to lift the tray up and forward (be carelful, it may contain water).

Put the pvc "snake" down into the drain in the upper collection tray, and gently work it down through the drain tube. You are done when the snake emerges from the bottom of the drain tube, at the back bottom of the fridge, above where the evaporator tray sits. . Snake up from the bottom, and then back down again from the top, to be sure the drain tube really is clear. Replace the evaporator tray, and slowly pour 2 cups of water into the collection tray at the top, and confirm that it drains quickly and completely into the lower tray.

Empty the lower tray, replace it, and reverse all the disassembly steps.

This is not a permanent fix, because the drain tube could clog again, but should be good for a few years before you have to repeat this operation. At least now you know the cause and the fix, and can deal more effectively with a repair tech, even if you don't tackle the job yourself.

Jun 20, 2009 | Roper RT21AKXKQ Top Freezer Refrigerator

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