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The lens you are using has the aperture ring set to something the camera cannot use. Simply turn the aperture ring to the largest number, usually a 22 or 32. Lock that ring if there is a lock and the fee should be gone.
Your coin battery that powers the memory system of your camera may be failing. This battery keeps your settings and powers your on board computer. Do not confuse this with your picture battery, as that only powers the lens and picture taking ability. The coin battery holds the program. See page 38 of your manual "Replacing the Date/Time battery."
Dave, do you realise just how incredibly mechanically complex your camera is?.
The shutter has not reset, all that's happened is that your sticking shutter has now progressed to a partially seized shutter release. The dark grey viewfinder indicates that the mirror inside the lens throat has stuck in the partially up (or partially down) position. This might just be something really simple like dirty shutter magnets, but if the camera was serviced before sale then that should have been spotted and corrected. Sadly, many dealers just give the camera a wipe over with a cloth, maybe a little bit of fresh paint on worn corners and a set of fresh batteries and claim that the camera has had a full service before sale.
Buying from a reputable dealer always attracts a price premium as such dealers are supposed to give full after-sales care. Just take it back for a refund or repair. Given that there are thousands of good FA's around (my last two were free on FreeCycle/Freegle), and that the dealer should have ensured that yours was in perfect condition before selling it, I'd personally demand a refund especially if you're in the UK (likely from your spelling of "grey") with the protection given by the Sale of Goods Act. Allowing the dealer to try and repair the fault will weaken your right to a refund under the Act, and any attempt to repair the fault yourself will completely void your consumer protection.
One other point to consider is that, worldwide, there are far fewer camera repair outlets than there used to be, and so you can usually expect to wait around six weeks for a repair unless paying far more for an express repair. This may be different if your dealer is one which has it's own qualified camera repair technician and is worth asking about if you consider letting them repair your camera.
I hope that my posting has clarified matters for you and will help you to make the correct decision. Good luck with a speedy resolution. Please return the favour by taking a moment to rate my answer.
99' indicates some problem with the AF contacts. This is a common error
in Canon lenses. It could indicate a very simple problem like dirty
contacts or a much serious one like the breakage of USM cable. Alternately, it can also be a card error or camera error.
remove the lens, battery and card and leave the camera like that for
about 30 min. After that, insert a fully charged battery and switch on
the camera. If the error still shows up, it is a fault with the camera
and has to be serviced.
If not, turn the camera off and insert the card. Format the card in the
camera and depress the shutter button. If it shows an error, the card is
If not, try cleaning the lens and body contacts (the metal
contacts between the lens and body) using a pencil eraser. Be careful to
hold the body facing down so that no dust falls inside. After cleaning
both the lens and the body contacts, re-attach the lens and try
shooting. If the error still shows up, you need to take the lens to an
authorized service center.
not solution, but a suggestion, something to look for/try.
i think it is trying to tighten it and take up the slack in the spool. there might be little red dots or something like that on the inside when you open it up. you are supposed to have the film go to a certain spot before you close it. normally, the film is sticking out the right length, but you might have to pull it out extra first. you might also have to tuck the end of the film behind a roller or in front of a roller before you close it. look for really tiny diagrams inside the camera, or maybe just tiny arrows indicating which way the film is supposed to wind. good luck with your class!
That's the Acute Matte Focusing Screen. They are made to be swappable and easily installed. While I don't know the specifics of your camera (I own a Maxxum 7000), I can assure you it's probably easily fixed, and probably not actually broken. Most likely, it's retainer just let go.
Start off with the simple things, does it work with another lens, is the AF/M switch in the correct postion for autofocus (AF), are the batteries good.
If all of the above are in order it maybe either the DC/DC converter on the bottom of the camera, this supplies power to various parts of the circuit. or it could be the motor drive transistors, these are located under the front cover and are located where you finger tips rest on the right hand side as you hold the camera.
Both these items are not really user changeable and I know the DC/DC units have not been available new for many years now.
I suggest you have a look for a friendly camera repair shop to pin point the exact cause.
You will have to keep in mind the age of the camera 23 years old parts are a big issue
I also have t-70 that I bought when they were released and I worry about the same thing. Everything that I have been able to find on the internet is that Canon no longer makes replacements and no third party has come forward with one. I went on Ebay and found another t-70 that is in excellent condition for $50.00 to use as a parts donor in case something happens to my original. The only bad thing is that I have been using that one also, I keep that one loaded with B+W and the original loaded with color.