Question about Eureka 421A EZ Kleen Bagless Stick Vacuum

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Johnson CL.A U8820-120 motor jammed up in my Bissell carpet power cleaner

I bought my Bissell carpet power cleaner for three years, I only use it once a year, when I turned it on last week, smoke came out from the motor, after I removed the motor from the device and found that the blower side of the motor was jammed with hair and dirt, what a poor design! Without a filter connected to the blower, can you not expcect to have the jamming situation? How can I find a better solution to permanently fix this problem?

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  • maltia Nov 16, 2008

    I have a similar problem on a Bissell 1690 "Steam" cleaner, same motor. The bearing closest to the blower is burnt to a crisp. In my case, there is not a lot of dirt, hair, etc. but it might have been turned to ashes by the hot bearing. The housing of the cooling fan at the other end of the motor is heavily scored in the plane of the fan blades, suggesting that something clogged that end up as well for a while. I am going to look for a replacement bearing in McMaster-Carr.

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I obtained a bearing from McMaster Carr (mcmaster.com) installed it and the carpet cleaner works
once again. I used a double-sealed bearing (part number 5972K221) rather than a double-shielded
bearing (part number 5972K36) which was of the type that failed. The original problem probably
arose from the dirty water tank getting so full that water/detergent is sucked into the motor. I did not
examine the unit to see if an interlock is supposed to prevent this from happening. In retrospect,
I probably should have gone for a stainless bearing (part number 6153K71) which costs $11.56
rather than the $4.26 for the one I selected. The repair was fairly straight-forward but confusing at
times. The motor is under lower front cover (rounded with air vents). This is held on by two
Phillips-head screws set deeply in holes in the back. However, the mounting tabs of the lower
front cover are under the upper front cover. It may be possible to bend outwards the lower part
of the upper cover, but I removed the upper cover. In addition to the two screws already mentioned,
the upper cover is held by two screws passing through the protrusions to which the clean-water
tank snaps are attached. You have to remove these snaps to pull the upper cover apart. After
you get the motor/housing out, you can remove the plastic blower housing with four screws, but there
is a metal blower housing underneath it that has to be pried out. Since the plastic one pries against
tends to break, I ended up repeatedly catching the edge of the metal housing with a screw-driver
blade and then rapping the screwdriver with a hammer. After removing the impeller, the motor can
be pulled free of the blower housing. After removing the brushes, it took a while to realize that
the brass-colored brush housings had to be slid almost all the way out to uncover the two screws
that allow the armature to be removed from the field coils. The bearing is press fit in place, so you
need a puller or some equivalent arrangement to remove the bearing. Not having a press, I used
the impeller nut to press the new bearing into place. It had to be tapped lightly with a hammer
at first. One the nut could grab a thread, it was used to press the bearing into place. Since you
run out of thread before the bearing is fully seated, you need to add some spacers and repeat
the process. I used a stack of washers. When removing he brushes, label their orientation so
that they do not add excessive drag when reassembled. So far, the repaired cleaner has run about
an hour without problems.

Posted on Nov 24, 2008

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