Hayward Spa Heater ignites for 2 seconds and shuts off.
I have a Hayward H 250ED1 - When I turn it on, the flames fully ignite for 2 seconds and turns off, I have replaced pressure switch and bypassed all sensors and switches. I changed the sand in the filter 20# type. I am guessing I have a few solutions left: Replace Electronic Controls (spark Ignitor), the gas valve or maybe it is clogged with calcium. Any suggestions
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YOur 1f code is actually a IF code which stands for "ignition failure".
This can be caused by many things, but the most likely is either the ignitor has failed, or the flame sensor has failed.
Make sure the gas manual gas valve is open. Remove from panel so that you can see the ignitor.
Turn off power, then turn back on. After 90 seconds, the ignitor should start to glow red hot. If this is not occuring, then it is likely the ignitor or ignitor wiring.
If the ignitor does glow, then the heater ignites, but still goes off showing the IF code, then it is the flame sensor.
If the ignitor glows, and the heater does not ignite, it is likely the gas valve or ignition control.
Assuming you don't hear any banging noises, that cycle is by design. There is a fault. 2 possible causes are the ignition board is bad, or the ignition sensor is not returning a voltage indicating the flame is lit. Take this out and put the ignition piece on your stove flame. Check for voltage while on flame (DC millivolt setting on multimeter). Put one probe on ground other on sensor lead. If it doesnt have voltage this is bad. If you do, its possible your board is bad.
most likely your flame sensor needs to be cleaned with fine emory cloth.sensors sometime become oxidized or corroded. once burner ignites,if flame is not sensed signal is sent to shut down valve as a safety precaution
This is a code for ignition falure. If you are getting a pilot then it means your Ignition module is not sensing the flame and shuting the gas down. This could be pilot wire burnt and grounding or a pilot flame not reaching the sensor or a bad ignition module. This is the expensive part so look into the other things first. Good luck.
Flame rectification is made by a ground signal in the heater. Wet heater = better grounding = longer running time. Look for rusty areas in and around the ignitor area and wire brush them off so the signal that the ignitor has a pilot flame on can get to the board. The only other problem could be the control module itself not recognizing the rectification signal which would mean a new module.
There may be a pressure regulator internal to the unit that has failed.
For safety, most gas appliances monitor the output of the internal regulator; in a situation where the gas pressure is unstable, if the main burner does not ignite within a finite period, they will shut down to avoid a buildup of unburned gases that could pop your windows out (or worse) if the ignitor keeps trying.