Washer stopped and will not drain ...... Shuts off
My 5 1/2 years old machine stopped and will not drain properly.
About a month ago this happened and I cleared the white drain part and hoses under the machine.
Now it is stopping again and when the machine is unplugged and started again it starts and making noises from the black part under the machine beside the white draining piece.
Also the door is locked and my clothes are still in the machine.
How do i fix this and How do i get my clothes out of the machine?
Please let me know asap,
Re: Washer stopped and will not drain ...... Shuts off
If there is nothing in pump replace it ,door will unlock when error code is fixed on 2nd person if its not your pump its your ccu board top rear ,to open door take off bottom panel 3 star screws put hand up inside under lid switch there is round plastic tab pull down while opening door its a release cloths "less soap plz "
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I believe the OE error is generated if it takes too long for the washing machine to drain. If the drain is blocked or the pump is is not functioning well, the error will show up intermittently. I believe we experienced a similar error a couple of years back. After verifying the drain was clear, I replaced the drain motor, I believe the washing machine was about 5 years old at that time.
I have had this problem with two of my previous washers a top loader and front loader.Each time it was a faulty pump that drains the water from the tub after the wash cycle is complete. If the water does not drain from the tub the machine will not go to the spin cycle. Both of my washers were 5 or 6 years old when this occurred. If the washer is only 5 months old it should be under the manufactures warranty. Good Luck.
If the control is unable to properly detect motor speed, the machine shuts down. If a failure occurs during high-speed spin, the door unlocks after 3 Minutes.
1. Verify the shipping system including shipping bolts, spacers and the power cord are removed. 2. Unplug washer or disconnect power. 3. Check drive motor tachometer resistance. It should be approx. 115 ohms. 4. Check wire harness connections between the drive motor and the Motor Control Unit (MCU), and between the MCU and the Central Control Unit (CCU). 5. Plug in washer or reconnect power. 6. Check the MCU by looking for operations of the drive motor. 7. Check the drive motor for powered rotations.
Generally if everything checks good, you'll want to replace the MCU because it's not reading the motor correctly.####
Whats happened is that the clutch/brake assembly is stuck.Without a qualified service tech. you can really get taken if the repairman doesn't know the trick to this.I can walk you through this step by step and you need only a 5/16 nut driver or socket.
The black part you mention is the drain pump motor. If the pump impeller is damaged, the motor may still run, but the pump will not drain any water. If the washer does not drain, it will not go into the final spin. The pump is sold as an entire assembly. Go to searspartsdirect.com and type in your COMPLETE model number. The pump will be listed under the "Pump and Motor Parts" heading as item number 10 (part #280187). This is not a standard part that an appliance repair center would normally carry in their inventory, so it would have to be ordered anyway. So...why not cut out the middle man? You can use other web sites for a cost comparison, but this is the cheapest place I have found it listed (use the part number listed above for your search)
If you need instructionson how to replace the pump, you can use this link:
I had this problem and did not have the time to fix it myself so I called Sears. The "tech" looked at his laptop, called his "supervisor" a couple of times and told my wife that both control boards needed replaced at a cost of over $500. The manuals, with testing procedures for the inclined, are on the inside, front cover.
The CE error is a communications failure and on mine it required replacement of the AVS board. I bought the part at a local supply house and replaced it myself for about $175.
I have been having the exact same problem in a top load Kenmore 80, starting about a year ago when I replaced the pump because the old one, (30 years old), finally seized it's bearings.
The new pump design has some rough edges near the water exit port and lint slowly collects there until it stops it from draining properly. Since the lint clumps do move around a bit, when the problem first starts occurring it is an intermittent problem, but as more lint accumulates it gets worse and worse.
The old pump couldn't be taken apart, (and never need to be taken apart), but the new one can be disassembled rather easily and when the lint clumps are removed everything works great for another month or two.
The pump is the so called direct replacement from Sears, for the washing machine that they sell, but obviously is not well suited for machines like mine that do not have lint filters.
I suspect they want to render my machine obsolete so that I buy a new one, after all they don't make much money selling 1 washer every 30+ years, especially if it rarely needs service. Why else would they sell pumps that don't work in place of pumps that worked well and lasted over 20 years.
the hose may still be filled from last cycle.
try to put machine in final spin mode where all water from previous wash will be spun out the drain hose. once a siphon is started it can only be stopped by introducing air into the drain hose.