Question about Whirlpool LER4634J Electric Dryer

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Whirlpool ler4634jq0 Rebuilt belts,pulley & idler, tested thermostats with meter they checked fine but the dryer gets hot but takes too long to dry clothes, pretty sure 1 or both thermostats have a problem. Replace both or just the hi temp thermostat?

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  • Andy Borofsky
    Andy Borofsky Nov 06, 2008

    The dryer is electric all vents are cleaned felt air venting outside 1 or both of the thermostats are questionable. Heating elements are kicking in but I don't think stay on long enough or get hot enough.

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1 Answer

The gas das't start tere for dryer goes for long time without drying the klotnes

Posted on Nov 06, 2008

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Lights keep flashing on machine


Instructions
    • 1 Check the power. If your Whirlpool dryer does not operate you may need to replace defective fuses. That includes the thermal fuse located inside the back cover panel. Look for open contacts in the timer. Verify that the door switch and the door switch activator are operational and that the circuit breaker hasn't been tripped.
    • 2 Examine the coils. If your dryer isn't producing any heat the gas valve coils may be defective. This prohibits the valve from opening and the gas from igniting. The electric igniter and the terminal bracket that secures it may need to be replaced. Also check to see if the thermal fuse is blown, if both volt circuits are on and the thermostats are functional.
    • 3 Test the drive belt. If your dryer does not tumble a broken drive belt and/or idler pulley may need to be replaced. Test for a burned out motor. If the motor is stiff, does not rotate manually and the blower fan housing is obstruction-free, the motor needs replacing. Also check for a defective door switch.
    • 4 Check the vent. If a load takes longer than one hour to dry clear the vent duct of any obstructions. Determine if the heating element is partially burned out. Unclog the internal ductwork by removing the lint filter and inspecting inside the duct. Verify the cycling thermostat is working properly. In gas dryers a defective flame sensor may be responsible.
    • 5 Inspect the motor. If your Whirlpool dryer is making too much noise it is most likely due to a defective motor. Worn rollers (or wheels), idler pulley, plastic glides, rear drum bearing or blower wheel may also be to blame. In most instances replacing the worn part will solve the problem.
    • 6 Check the thermostat. If your appliance overheats replacing a defective cycling thermostat or unclogging a vent system generally will alleviate the problem.
    • 7 Replace worn rollers. If your clothes are being damaged you may need to replace the rollers that support the clothes drum, rear and/or front drum seals and/or front glides.
    • 8 Search the Internet or your local Yellow Pages to find out where you can purchase Whirlpool dryer replacement parts. Sites, such as repair2000.com, offer appliance repair guides on CD-Rom.

Jan 15, 2013 | Whirlpool Dryers

1 Answer

My whirlpool electric dryer model ler7648pq1 can hear the timer run but no motor running and no heat.


Hi iramsey831...

You may have two problems...I will send you solutions to both, your dryer may disassemble
differently than discribed below...but the basics are sound and with a little effort can be applies to your dryer.
1....Drum not turning motor no noise

ALWAYS UNPLUG YOUR DRYER BEFORE ATTEMPTING TO DO ANY WORK ON IT.
Sounds like your problem may be a broken belt, or the belt may have slipped off of the motor pulley, or idler arm pulley, or a faulty motor.
Note: This method works for most front loading machines.
If you have to check/replace/repair your drum motor,drum seals,belt,rollers, etc.
If replacing drum seals be sure to use a good grade of weather proof cement to hold the seal/s in place, some seals are furnished with the cement to glue it in place.
Remove the electrical console that holds the timer switch,start switch, etc. from the top of the dryer if necessary. Be real careful not to knock any of the wires off of the timer switch or other electrical connections.
Remove the lint filter and the two screws that hold the filter housing to the top of the dryer lid.
Then remove the top of the dryer by inserting a screwdriver between the top and frame on each side of the dryer to pop the lid up from the retaining clips.
Note: Some of the tops tilt backwards on a type of hinge and do not have to be removed completly.
Remove the front of the machine by disconnecting the door switch and removing the two screws located on either side of the dryer frame.
Move the door and front of machine forward to remove.
This will expose the belt,idler bracket and drum, remove the drum and belt and this will expose the drum rollers, idler arm bracket with pulley, and motor with pulley. Pay attention to the route of the belt, this will come in handy when you go to reinstall the belt and drum.
Sometimes the belt will slip off of the idler arm or motor causing the drum not to turn.
Note:The way the belt goes back on is, as the belt comes off the drum has to be doubled (pushed together to form a loop) and goes under the idler pulley then to the motor pulley.
Here is a link to see a picture of your belt routing in case the belt is broken when you open your dryer:
http://www.expertappliance.com/dryerbeltconfiguration.html

While you have the drum out, I would recommend that you remove and lubricate the drum rollers.
And also clean the shafts of the rollers as they will collect hair,dust,etc and cause problems and then lubricate the shafts and rollers with a good grade of machine oil like 3 in One oil or a vasoline type of lubricant. This will save you a problem later with the rollers getting dry and making a squeeling noise, also check your drum rollers for flat spots, if they have flat spots on them this will cause a thumping type noise.
You will need to replace the drum rollers if they have flat spots on them.
****************************************************************************************************************
2...No Heat..
Here are a few things to check:
ALWAYS UNPLUG YOUR DRYER BEFORE ATTEMPTING TO DO ANY WORK ON IT.
Check to make sure you are getting full 220 Volt power to the dryer, if you are then:
Check your Wiring
Often the main wiring connection from the house, at the dryer, burns and the connection breaks. If this has happened to your dryer, you need to replace the power cord and the terminal block inside the dryer to which the wire is attached.
Check the Door Switch
If the door switch or the door-switch actuator is defective, the dryer won't work and you need to replace the failed component. The switch is inside the dryer main housing near the door frame. Sometimes you need to raise or open the top or front of the dryer to reach the switch. Check for continuity you should have none with door open, and should have a reading when closed. If not replace the door switch.
Check to make sure you heating problem is not a lint build up in the discharge hose or the dryer,as this condition can cause heater/thermistor problems such as overheating of the heating coil leading to failure of the coil and burnout of the thermostat/thermistor due to overheat.
Remove the back/or front just under the door of the machine and try to locate the air duct going from the blower to the drum. Normally inside/outside the air duct you will find the heating coil and the thermostats/thermistors. Once you have located the heating coil, remove the two wires from it and check the coil with an ohm meter across the two terminals of the coil.
You should read continuity across the terminals, if not you will need to replace the coil as it is faulty.
If the heating coil is ok, then:
You can check the thermostat/thermistor/thermal fuse one at a time by removing the two wires and taping them together with electrical tape.
If the coil heats up then replace the thermostat/thermistor/thermal fuse as it is faulty.
If you have an ohm meter then you can test the thermostat/thermistor/thermal fuse,
then you do not have to tape the wires together as described above.
To test your thermostat/thermistor/thermal fuse remove the wires from the thermostat/thermistor/thermal fuse and check for continuity, if you DO NOT have continuity then replace the thermostat/thermistor/thermal fuse.
DO NOT LEAVE THE WIRES TAPED TOGETHER AFTER THE TEST AS THIS COULD CAUSE A FIRE BECAUSE YOU HAVE REMOVED THE SAFETY.
Check your blower wheel to make sure it is secure to the shaft and not plugged with lint,socks,etc.
If the thermal fuse overheats the dryer will not operate. It's located on the blower housing. It cannot be reset.
You can test it with an Ohm meter or continuity checker, remove both wires from the thermal fuse and put the test probes to each of the ends of the thermal fuse, if no continuity then replace the thermal fuse.
A vent clogged with lint can cause it to overheat.
Right after replacing a dryer element, always run the dryer on 'air fluff' / 'no heat', and go outside to verify there's plenty of air coming out your vent system.
If the vent's clogged, that new element can burn out very quickly.
For video and pictures on how to replace a generic element go to the following website:
davesrepair.com/DIYhelp/DIYreplacingWPLdryels.htm
Please take time to rate me



Sep 13, 2011 | Whirlpool Dryers

1 Answer

My whirlpool dryer is about 9 years old and takes a few minutes before it starts moving the clothes around. the clothes dry fine, but why is it taking awhile to spin the clothes. Is the belt going?


Hi mbps759...
Yes it sounds like your belt is in need of replacement, here is some instructions to help you out.
Please take time to rate me
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
ALWAYS UNPLUG YOUR DRYER BEFORE ATTEMPTING TO DO ANY WORK ON IT.
Sounds like your problem may be a broken belt, or the belt may have slipped off of the motor pulley, or idler arm pulley.
Note: This method works for most front loading machines.
If you have to check/replace/repair your drum motor,drum seals,belt,rollers, etc.
If replacing drum seals be sure to use a good grade of weather proof cement to hold the seal/s in place, some seals are furnished with the cement to glue it in place.
Remove the electrical console that holds the timer switch,start switch, etc. from the top of the dryer if necessary. Be real careful not to knock any of the wires off of the timer switch or other electrical connections.
Remove the lint filter and the two screws that hold the filter housing to the top of the dryer lid.
Then remove the top of the dryer by inserting a screwdriver between the top and frame on each side of the dryer to pop the lid up from the retaining clips.
Note: Some of the tops tilt backwards on a type of hinge and do not have to be removed completly.
Remove the front of the machine by disconnecting the door switch and removing the two screws located on either side of the dryer frame.
Move the door and front of machine forward to remove.
This will expose the belt,idler bracket and drum, remove the drum and belt and this will expose the drum rollers, idler arm bracket with pulley, and motor with pulley. Pay attention to the route of the belt, this will come in handy when you go to reinstall the belt and drum.
Sometimes the belt will slip off of the idler arm or motor causing the drum not to turn.
Note:The way the belt goes back on is, as the belt comes off the drum has to be doubled (pushed together to form a loop) and goes under the idler pulley then to the motor pulley.
Here is a link to see a picture of your belt routing in case the belt is broken when you open your dryer:
http://www.expertappliance.com/dryerbeltconfiguration.html

While you have the drum out, I would recommend that you remove and lubricate the drum rollers.
And also clean the shafts of the rollers as they will collect hair,dust,etc and cause problems and then lubricate the shafts and rollers with a good grade of machine oil like 3 in One oil or a vasoline type of lubricant. This will save you a problem later with the rollers getting dry and making a squeeling noise, also check your drum rollers for flat spots, if they have flat spots on them this will cause a thumping type noise.
You will need to replace the drum rollers if they have flat spots on them.
Please take time to rate me

Aug 22, 2011 | Whirlpool Dryers

1 Answer

How do you replace the belt on a Maytag clothes dryer


frist unplug dryer then take front panel off dry then take lint housing off there 4 screw on both side take that off remove broken belt put new belt on around dryer drum an loop belt over white idler pulley an around motor pulley idler pulley put tension on the belt

Apr 24, 2010 | Dryers

1 Answer

My dryer squeals loudly and doesn't dry my clothes properly.


UNPLUG YOUR DRYER BEFORE STARTING ANY REPAIRS

Sounds like you have two problems....

#1 problem....Your first problem sounds like drum rollers have flat spots on them or in need of lubrication, or maybe your belt has slipped off of the idler arm pulley.

If you have a front loading machine,

Remove the electrical console that holds the timer switch, start switch, etc. from the top of the dryer.
Be REAL CAREFUL not to knock any of the wires off of the timer switch. Then remove the top of the dryer.
Remove the front of the dryer. This will expose the drum and belt. Remove the drum and belt and this will expose the drum rollers, idler arm pulley and motor.
Now is a good time to check the belt to see if it has slipped off of the idler arm pulley and also check the belt condition for wear.
Be sure to note the route of the belt, this will come in handy when you go to reinstall the belt.
Check your rollers for flat spots, if they have flat spots on them replace them.
If the rollers don't have flat spots on them then they probably only need lubrication. Lubricate the shaft of the rollers with a good grade of machine oil such as 3 in One oil. Reassemble the dryer, plug back in. This should solve your noise problem.
#2 problem...
Your second problem may be with the heating coil.
Remove the back of the machine and try to locate the air duct going from the blower to the drum. Normally inside the air duct you will find the heating coil and the thermostats/thermistor.
Once you have located the heating coil, remove the two wires from it and check the coil with an ohm meter across the two terminals of the coil.
You should read continuity across the terminals, if not then you will need to replace the coil as it is faulty.
If the heating coil is ok, then:
You can check the thermostat/thermistor by removing the two wires and taping them together with electrical tape.
If the coil heats up then replace the thermostat/thermistor.
DO NOT LEAVE THE WIRES TAPED TOGETHER AFTER THE TEST. This could cause a fire, as you have removed the safety of overheat from the machine.
I will include these two websites for parts and further help:
http://www.partselect.com/
http://www.appliancepartspros.com/index.aspx
Both also have chat assistance 24/7.
Good Luck,
I hope this helps

Nov 05, 2009 | Whirlpool LER4634J Electric Dryer

2 Answers

Heat cycle stops/goes off


  1. Changing from 3 to 4 wire hookup on a electric dryer
  2. Door switch replacement help for a common door switch
  3. Dryer basics - Venting problems and power supply
  4. Dryer basics - timers and how they work
  5. Dryer basics - power cord problems
  6. Dryer basics - dead dryer
  7. Dryer *general* repair flow chart....Click here
  8. Gas dryer smell
  9. How do dryer thermostats work?
  10. How long can my dryer vent be in length?
  11. How to change a common rear drum seal
  12. How the belt is suppose to look at the motor and idler pulley
  13. Help on replacing dryer motor and some wiring tips for the 279827 motor
  14. Help on replacing dryer motor and some wiring tips for the 279787 motor new25.gif
  15. Help for storing an appliance
  16. Important Disclaimer
  17. I dropped something down the lint filter area....help!
  18. Inglis, Whirlpool and Kenmore most common style dryer - how to take apart ( lint filter on top )
  19. Inglis, Whirlpool and Kenmore most common style dryer - how to take apartslide show( lint filter on top )
  20. Whirlpool or Sears dryer with heater on the floor and four rollers for drum style - take apart helps ( lint filter in the door )
  21. Inglis, Whirlpool and Kenmore electric style dryers - no heat problems
  22. Inglis, Whirlpool and Kenmore electric element changing procedures
  23. Inglis, Whirlpool and Kenmore dryers - air flow
  24. Inglis, Whirlpool and Kenmore style dryers - noise problems....drum rollers and idler pulley information....
  25. Inglis, Whirlpool and Kenmore style dryers - belt change
  26. Inglis, Whirlpool and Kenmore dryer general motor problems
  27. Inglis, Whirlpool and Kenmore gas style dryers - no heat problems
  28. Inglis, Whirlpool and Kenmore dryers - where are my thermostats
  29. If your drum belt looks like either of these....change it!!
  30. Idler pulley slide troubles with newer Whirlpool build Roper dryer
  31. My dryer will not shut off new25.gif
  32. Newer style Whirlpool - Inglis - ( some ) Kenmore dryer front drum support ring install help
  33. Pilot flame help
  34. Sample wiring diagrams
  35. Test for ohm meter checking on electric dryers with no heat
  36. Taking apart an Duet or HE3 dryer for a belt change
  37. Taking apart a Whirlpool Thin twin washer/dryer to replace the belt
  38. Timers and some common Auto dry troubles and solutions
  39. What is a grounded element?
  40. Whirlpool - Kenmore dryer motor problems in the dryer with Even HeatControl....info on this is here + new25.gifExpanded repair helps for a common "Even Heat" dryer

May 15, 2009 | Whirlpool GGQ8831L Gas Dryer

2 Answers

Whirlpool gas dryer turns on drum spins exhaust is clear and blows air but it wont ignite


  1. Changing from 3 to 4 wire hookup on a electric dryer
  2. Door switch replacement help for a common door switch
  3. Dryer basics - Venting problems and power supply
  4. Dryer basics - timers and how they work
  5. Dryer basics - power cord problems
  6. Dryer basics - dead dryer
  7. Dryer *general* repair flow chart....Click here
  8. Gas dryer smell
  9. How do dryer thermostats work?
  10. How long can my dryer vent be in length?
  11. How to change a common rear drum seal
  12. How the belt is suppose to look at the motor and idler pulley
  13. Help on replacing dryer motor  and some wiring tips for the 279827 motor
  14. Help on replacing dryer motor  and some wiring tips for the 279787 motor new25.gif
  15. Help for storing an appliance
  16. Important Disclaimer
  17. I dropped something down the lint filter area....help!
  18. Inglis, Whirlpool and Kenmore most common style dryer - how to take apart ( lint filter on top )
  19. Inglis, Whirlpool and Kenmore most common style dryer - how to take apartslide show ( lint filter on top )
  20. Whirlpool or Sears dryer with heater on the floor and four rollers for drum style - take apart helps ( lint filter in the door )
  21. Inglis, Whirlpool and Kenmore electric style dryers - no heat problems
  22. Inglis, Whirlpool and Kenmore electric element changing procedures
  23. Inglis, Whirlpool and Kenmore dryers - air flow
  24. Inglis, Whirlpool and Kenmore style dryers - noise problems....drum rollers and idler pulley information....
  25. Inglis, Whirlpool and Kenmore style dryers - belt change
  26. Inglis, Whirlpool and Kenmore dryer general motor problems
  27. Inglis, Whirlpool and Kenmore gas style dryers - no heat problems
  28. Inglis, Whirlpool and Kenmore dryers - where are my thermostats
  29. If your drum belt looks like either of these....change it!!
  30. Idler pulley slide troubles with newer Whirlpool build Roper dryer
  31. My dryer will not shut off new25.gif
  32. Newer style Whirlpool - Inglis - ( some ) Kenmore dryer front drum support ring install help
  33. Pilot flame help
  34. Sample wiring diagrams
  35. Test for ohm meter checking on electric dryers with no heat
  36. Taking apart an Duet or HE3 dryer for a belt change
  37. Taking apart a Whirlpool Thin twin washer/dryer to replace the belt
  38. Timers and some common Auto dry troubles and solutions
  39. What is a grounded element?
  40. Whirlpool - Kenmore dryer motor problems in the dryer with Even HeatControl....info on this is here  + new25.gifExpanded repair helps for a common "Even Heat" dryer

Mar 30, 2009 | Whirlpool LGR8648L Gas Dryer

1 Answer

My Dryer has stop producing heat


hi mark it the heating coil in the back of the dryer

Feb 10, 2009 | Whirlpool LER4634J Electric Dryer

1 Answer

Whirlpool ler4634jq0


Your rollers probably need replacement. Get a bonified FSP idler instead of a crappy made in asia knock off. Check your drum slide. Rib side down with the belt to the drum.

Dec 15, 2008 | Whirlpool LER4634J Electric Dryer

1 Answer

Whirlpool dryer the belt has come off the pulley.


remove screws under lint screen ...press clips in at front corners of top and lift top remove 5/16 screws on inside top of front panel lift front off ck idler pulley if is roller type just reinstall loop belt from left and push through idler bracket and over motor pulley..bracket fits in slots in base if idler is glide type replace it with roller type 691366(i think)

Nov 15, 2008 | Whirlpool LER4634J Electric Dryer

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