Question about Candy Dishwashers
Because the timer controls many operations, a faulty timer can cause many problems. The timer is a complex component, so you shouldn't attempt a do-it-yourself repair. Test the timer with a VOM set to the RX1 scale. To gain access to the timer, remove the front control panel. The timer is directly behind the main timer control knob. Disconnect one of the timer's terminal wires and clip one probe of the VOM to each terminal. If the meter reads zero, the timer is working. If the meter reads higher than zero, the timer is faulty and should be replaced.
If possible, use the same procedure to test the selector and cycle switches. The wiring hookup, however, may be too complicated to figure out on either of these switches. If you aren't sure you can deal with these switches, call a professional service person. Replace a faulty timer -- or a faulty control switch -- with a new one made for the dishwasher.
The timer is connected to several wires that supply power to operate the various functions of the dishwasher. To replace the timer, have a helper hold the new timer next to the old one. Connect the wires of the new timer one by one, removing the old wire and connecting the new, to make sure you connect the wires correctly. The wires may be friction-fit on the terminals. If they are, use long-nosed pliers to remove the wires. Don't pull up on the wires, or you may break the connection between the wires and the clips.
After connecting the wires, set the new timer in position, secure it the way the old one was secured, and replace the control panel and knobs.
Posted on Nov 06, 2008
I have had the same problem as most of you. I seem to have fixed it by
1. Bail out all the water from the inside
2. Remove the filter and 2 x mesh pieces.
3. Continue to bail out the water from the filter well.
4. You will probably find pieces of food or fat/debris in the bottom of the well. Remove these.
5. Tilt back the dishwasher at 45 degrees for 30 mins or so to drain and dry the flood sensor.
6. Boil a kettle and pour it down the well. Immediately put the dish washer on a eco wash (no tablets or anything) with half load (ie half water) and this will ease the water pump.
7. Let the dishwasher run its cycle.
8. Clean the filter again and the filter well.
It sounds quite long winded but with a £250 item you need to take care of it. Make sure you rinse most plates before loading in the future.
Hope this helps!!!
Posted on Mar 01, 2009
"E4" code relates to the overflow detector There appears to be an internal sump. Lean the machine back about 35-45 degrees to remove the excess water from the dishwasher. It might be messy so be prepared. By design the sump collects water from condensation i.e. (Cold outside machine wall, hot inside machine wall) hence condensation builds up and is suppose to and should evaporate in the right environment. Placement and installation locations play into a big part of the design.
You will notice by observation just in the centre there is a polystyrene float. This is what activates the overflow switch which throws the error code.
This probelm is simple to fix, just take off your kitchen plinth and turn off the dish washer power. then at the base of the dishwasher there are 2 plastic clip access panels, take a blunt screw driver or knive to help you ease out the plastic panel. once this is off, simple take a dish cloth out mop out the water, particularly from the left hand side as this is where the sensor is. Once dry (ish) replace the panels and switch on - DONE! its that easy
Posted on Nov 07, 2008
SOURCE: E4 error on new conia dishwasher
Had the same problem. First you will need to tilt dishwasher back 45 degrees and tip out all excess water. A couple of towels on the floor are a good idea.
Second check that the little nozzle on the elbow under your sink where your overflow attaches is drilled out.
This fixed my problem after fussing around for a day and I was starting to disconnect everything to take it back.
Posted on Dec 22, 2007
The solution below applies to a Powerpoint dishwasher but is probably a generic one for E4 problems - given that brandnames are frequently badges of convenience for made-in-china products.
The problems cause and solution goes as follows:
Any water that leaks (for whatever reason) from the internals of the machine finds it's way down to the lowest point of the machine - down under the washzone and into the area where all the workings of the machine are located. There's a sensor there (a polystyrene float operated switch in fact) that detects this water - causing the machine to empty and go into error 4 (E4).
The solution will depend on the nature of the leak. If it's due to one of the various seals on the floor of the washer leaking or there is some problem with water level controls then that will have to be repaired first - otherwise you'll keep on getting the error. In my case however, the "leak" was actually a design feature of the machine and is easily rectified.
Open the dishwasher door fully and look at the floor of the machine where it meets the bottom of the door. You'll see a couple of plastic tubes protruding from the floor by about 12mm - one to the left and one to the right. Their function appears to be to act as an overflow if the water level in the machine gets too high (for whatever reason). This excess water is directed down these tubes and into the bottom of the machine where it can be detected - rather than letting it spill out onto your expensive floor. The weakness in this system is that it only takes a soup spoon of water to produce the error - something which might accidently happen during the course of a normal wash.
1) Leave the machine idle for a few days until the water evaporates. The sensor switch will reset and the error will be gone when you switch on.
For either of the following solutions, turn off the power to the machine by unplugging it or tripping the relevant switch at your fuse board
The stainless steel washcabinet is only slightly thicker than aluminium kitchen foil. Handle the machine gently and never force it otherwise you're in danger of distorting the cabinet.
2) Tilt the machine right the way forward so that the water leaves the area of the sensor. It'll flow back again once you level the machine but in wetting the floor area of the machine, the level at the sensor will be a little lower than before - permitting the sensor to reset. Switch on and the problem should be gone.
3) Pull the machine out from the built in unit to gain access to the right hand panel. Remove it (just a lot of philips screws holding it on) and you can just about see the polystyrene float (near the front) and the slightly depressed area underneath it - in which the water accumulates. You can poke a stick in with some tissue taped to it to mop up the water. Be careful not to disturb or damage the float.
I've had this problem occur twice in as many years. If it keeps on occurring then you likely have a genuine problem with water level controls during filling or a leaking internal seal dripping water into the bottom of the machine.
Don't be tempted to block the overflow tubes - a genuine overflow could destroy your kitchen!
Posted on Feb 21, 2009
Water is not to top sensor in alotted time.
Top sensor is in right rear corner, and is the upper of the two. Check the connector to the probe on the outside at the back. (sometimes gets wet fro vacuum breaker leaking when dirty or low flow pressure. Machine needs 20 psi flow rate
Posted on Aug 14, 2009
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
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