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Anonymous Posted on Mar 21, 2012

Whirlpool washing machine AWM 5100 has stopped going thru the full cycle.

It will wash but the timer stops at the rinse/spin point in the cycle. If I manually turn it to Rinse/Spin or to Spin it does nothing but if I manually turn it to Drain it will drain. I used the Whirlpool Fault Diagnosis test from the web but it failed at step 1. I checked the Delay Start switch & the NTC as recommended in the test instructions & they are OK. Does this mean the programmable timer is broken? Or any other ideas? Thanks, Pete.

  • Anonymous Mar 21, 2012

    Thanks for the feedback. I should have mentioned the AMW 5100 is a front loader, so I don't think the lid switch solution applies here. I had already cleaned the removable filter at the lower front. Is the "mother board" the same as the programmable timer?

  • Anonymous Mar 21, 2012

    Further info from closer observation: the next step after the wash & drain cycle is the rinse cycle. The machine is doing the wash & drain cycle & stopping rather than proceeding to do a rinse cycle.

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Etek

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  • Posted on Mar 05, 2014
Etek
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  1. Clean filters in hoses and drain pump
  2. Run diagnostic test as per service manual (web) exactly.
  3. Re-read diagnostic test procedure.
  4. Rectify error.
  5. IC program partial failure is possible if results don't make sense. Electronic components have a shelf life and service life.
  6. Drain pump bearings excessively worn will also give this fault if pump not working at 1 in test. Confirm by tapping the drain pump at filter inspection cover or firm cushioned blows at lower right front of chassis. Impeller will show slight side movement also when the filter removed. Manually drain via filter and check impeller spins freely if in doubt.
  7. James it is a FL not a TL and wouldn't start at all if DSS was OC.
  8. My repairs to 5100's mainly drain pumps then hoses, motor failures then Timers

Anonymous

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  • Posted on Mar 21, 2012
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My machine did a similar thing and in my case, it was debris in the filter. It took several clear-outs before the object appeared.

  • evav Sep 04, 2012

    where is the debis filter? i am having the same issue it stops on the faint arrow head between the wash and spin cycles.

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Anonymous

  • 116 Answers
  • Posted on Oct 06, 2008

SOURCE: washer will not drain water or go into rinse and spin cycle

check out this link
www.applianceaid.com

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Anonymous

  • 3 Answers
  • Posted on Dec 28, 2008

SOURCE: I have a whirlpool front

Probably needs a new "mother board." I've had to replace mine 3 times. It's expensive too.

Anonymous

  • 686 Answers
  • Posted on Apr 04, 2009

SOURCE: Washing Machine is not draining in rinse cycle to go to spin cycl

you both seem to have bad lid switches. A bad lid switch will prevent draining and spinning.

Anonymous

  • 5911 Answers
  • Posted on May 15, 2010

SOURCE: will not drain or continue to rinse/spin cycle

The most common cause of the problem you are experiencing is a lid switch malfunction. Symptoms may include, filling and stopping on the intial fill cycle, a wash tub that will not drain, and stopping right after the wash cycle and not advancing to rinse or spin cycles.


The lid switch is usually mounted under the washer top casing, on the right hand side on most top load models. It is activated by a plastic piece on the lid (called a "Lid Strike") through a small hole on the rim of the wash tub opening. In many cases the lid strike breaks off the lid, or the lid switch becomes loose and no longer makes contact. Inspect the lid to make sure the lid strike is still intact, and then inspect the mounting screws (adjacent to the small opening on the wash tub rim) and make sure they are snug. If you determine the switch to be defective, the following link explains how to replace one:

http://www.fixya.com/support/r3557193-replacing_a_lid_switch

On some models, the lid switch is located under the top casing by one of the lid hinges. You will know if you if you have this type of switch, because It does not have a lid strike and the small hole on the right hand side of the wash tub will not be present. This switch is actuated (toggled) by a rod on the lid hinge. With this type of switch, if you locate it and it can be toggled by hand, you may only need to adjust the actuator by bending it slightly.

NOTE: You do not have to drain or bail the water from the washer tub to perform this repair. Once a defective lid switch is replaced, the washer should drain normally.

A replacement lid switch (if required) can be purchased at any of the following web sites:

searspartsdirect.com
pcappliancerepair.com
appliancepartspros.com
repairclinic.com

The average price is about $20 - $30 if you perform the repair yourself. Prices differ between sites so shop and compare.

IMPORTANT: It is strongly recommended that you replace the lid switch if defective. However, if you need to use the washer in the interim while awaiting parts, you can by-pass the switch by following these steps:

1. UNPLUG washer.
2. Unplug the lid switch connector from the timer and remove switch.
3. Cut the white plug off the end of the old lid switch, leaving about two inches of wire on the plug.
4. Cut the ground wire (usually green in color) flush.
5. Take the remaining two wires and splice them together.
6. Take this plug and plug it back in to the timer.

You have now by-passed the lid switch. Caution needs to exercised when operating the washer without a lid switch. Make sure you turn the timer off before open the lid to stop the washer. NOTE: You will render the existing lid switch inoperable by making the by-pass plug. Keep the plug for future reference and replace the switch.


If you have questions, or need additional assistance, please post back with your MODEL NUMBER and let me know. The lid switch is a very simple repair that you can easily perform without the assistance of a repairman.

If this advice does not help you enough, repairclinic.com has a Repair Manual you can order to assist you with all your repairs. The part number is 1170635 and is priced at about $20. Searspartsdirect.com also has a repair manual for about the same price. Part number 4314044L. I hope this information is helpful to you.

Testimonial: "Well THANK YOU for your response jsrock516.But the wife emptied the tub of water and found a sheet wrapped under the agitator.once she took it out it started working fine. again THANK YOU"

Anonymous

  • 15935 Answers
  • Posted on Sep 18, 2010

SOURCE: Kenmore 22882 washer won't rinse, drain or spin

It appears your timer/main controller/CCU has failed in this instance.

For replacement parts - head on over to PartSelect.com or RepairClinic.com and enter in your full model number for a full parts listing.
I recommend both sites because ...


FixYa has no affiliation with either site - I have been using and recommending them for years - trouble free.

PartSelect has a great schematic database for locating the part on your unit and great "testimonials" for each part that often times includes HOW-TO information.
RepairClinic has pictures of each part they sell and also a great how-to and troubleshooting for basic repairs.


If your unit has never been serviced - there should still be an original service manual enclosed in plastic taped to the inside of the shell.
In the service manual are Error codes, maintenance procedures, and troubleshooting steps you can follow.


Anything too complicated or beyond your scope should be handled by a professional.

If you think you want to tackle the repair - and have gotten stuck on a step - reply to your question and I will be glad to help you out.




Thanks for using FixYa - a 4 THUMBS rating is appreciated for answering your FREE question

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hi,
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When the cycle doesn't advance, it's probably the timer or a cold-water supply problem:

It's the timer, if your washing machine fills with water and begins agitating, but the timer never advances--or if the washer is in a spin cycle and the timer won't advance. Then you need to replace the timer. 


It may be a cold-water supply problem, if the washing machine fills with water, agitates, drains, and spins, but then doesn't fill with rinse water. See There's no cold water.

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"o" is an unsual code. usually it will have an "f" then a number. it may be that you are having a draining issue. is the unit full or have some water left in it? if so take off the front panel and see if you can remove the sump cover. be ready for water to come out, then remove whatever is blocking the pump and sump area. it most liekly has lint or items in there causing no drain.
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