Question about Fisher and Paykel Active Smart® E522BR Stainless Steel Bottom Freezer Refrigerator

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F&P Active Smart E521TRE Removing freezer back panel

Can I please have advice on how to remove inside back panel in freezer of F&P E521TRE Active Smart--Appears to be considerable ice build up around drain hole area and water is collecting on floor of fridge--Assume that drain hole is blocked---I am able to remove inside back panel of fridge easily but freezer panel is not so easy---Max

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My fridge (E440T but I believe the E522B is similar) had a broken fan wire and i had to pull off the rear panel and re-solder a wire. I created a document for others to follow that shows the rear panel removal if interested at I fixed my Fisher and Paykel Fridge Active Smart Fridge.pdf

Thanks to all postings on this site - it really helped a lot.

Posted on Nov 17, 2008

  • Have a go 2 Dec 04, 2010

    Great article - but not that the lugs at the bottom f the freezer panel are there for a reason upon reinserting it (they go first) - so logic dictates they come out last. There are two gaps at the top of the freezer panel, use a straight edge screwdriver to lower the top down to exposre the top lugs, use a spoon or something thin to wedge these down . Use long-nose plyers to gently pull forward - remember there are wires attached to the back for the fan and also your in-freezer thermometer (the white rubber lug at top right)

  • hairyhangers Apr 16, 2011

    I just used tony439's document on how to fix the beeping fridge. It worked a treat and saved me heaps of time effing around. My fridges symptoms were similar to tony's except that the fridge still worked fine. The problem was that Ice had built up around the fan and its blades were fouling on the ice. I kinda suspected that was the problem cos I could hear the whir. I had been putting the job off cos I couldnt work out how to pull the back off without busting something.

    Tony, you went to a lot of trouble to post that thing on the web and mate, I truly appreciate you doing that. Hats off to you :)



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Our upside down fridge/freezer started to beep. Upon opening the fridge the thermostat lights on the back was flashing red then green then red again anyone help?

This is a connection issue between one of the temperature sensors and the electronics, the plugs on the sensors need to be removed and cleaned with contact cleaner and you need to make sure that the contact are pushing firmly against the circuit boards, there are 2 control units, one behind the fridge beside the compressor and one in the back of the fridge which you get to by simply pulling the middle rear panel out after removing the shelves, just be careful as you can damage the plastic.

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How do i remove the covers from the inside back of the freezer


Please is the below product the actual make and model of your refrigerator?

Fisher and Paykel Active Smart® E522BR Stainless Steel Bottom Freezer Refrigerator

I look forward to your reply.

Bye for now.

Aug 30, 2011 | Fisher and Paykel Active Smart® E522BR...

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Active smart fridge freezer ,fridge not cooling

Sounds like you have a defrost problem since the freezer side is working okay . It probably is not blowing cold air into the refrigerator side , so to check the defrost circuit , unplug the refrigerator and inside the refrigerator section at the top about 2" in from each side in the back , there are "D" slots to put a finger in , and pull downward and forward , to remove the control panel cover . Once removed , there is a 1/4" screw on each side holding the adjustment indicator panel on , 1 phillips screw behind both light bulbs , and 1 screw holding the complete panel to the rear wall . After removing these 5 screws , at the top right corner , with about 6-8 wires going to it , is the adaptive defrost board . Sometimes you can see the electronic board and on newer refrig's , a white box will be seen. Inside this box , is the adaptive defrost control . Disconnect the plug going to the board and on the right side of the PLUG , the far right wire is yellow , then another color , then white . Useing a small insulated wire with both ends stripped , insert one end into the yellow wire hole and the other into the white wire hole . This will bypass the adaptive board and send power directly through the defrost bimetal ( thermostat ) AND heater to check if they are good .Plug the refrigerator back in . Now , wait about 3-5 min and look for a red glow at the bottom of the inside freezer panel , which will be the defrost heater or listen for sizzling which will be the frost melting and dripping onto the heater .If NO red glow , watch for a spark while removing the jumper wire you installed , from the plug . If a spark IS seen , then the heater was on and the heater AND bimetal are good . If you see the red glow , hear the sizzling , or see the spark , then the adaptive defrost board should be replaced . If no glow , sizzling or spark , then unplug the refrigerator and reinstall the refrigerator control section . Remove the food in the freezer section enough so that the 2 screws holding the lower freezer panel on and the freezer panel , can be removed . Remove the panel . If the heater (black element at the bottom of the coils ) wires are visible , trace then to the top of the coils and disconnect . Use an ohm meter to determine if the element is good . If the element IS good , at the top of the coils , is a 1" cylinder with 2 wires , clipped onto the coils . This is the defrost thermostat ( bimetal ) . Replace this part if the element shows good . If the element shows bad , replace the element . NOTE 1 : sometimes the element and the bimetal come wired togather and the replacement part comes with a new heater and bimetal already wired togather . This would be the adviseable replacement part . However , each part can still be replaced individually . NOTE 2 : If looking at the bimetal and the top plastic " cap " looks cockeyed , replace the bimetal as moisture has gotten inside and disturbed its designed function .
I hope this will help in solving the problem....

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I have an active smart fridge freezer. The freezer seems ok but the fridge has stopped working but it doesent get cold. how can it be fixed. It is only 18 months old.

Check fan in the freezer
Also check auto defrost (ice on the freezer coils anot allowing
air to the fridge.)
If so go to appliance parts store to learn the parts to fix auto defrost.
If this was helpful please rate me.
Leo Ponder Appliance-Tyler,Texas

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1 Answer

Noisy high pitched noise from fridgefreezer fan despite being replaced

The insulation in these units is taped in place. This will slip and rub the fan. That is what usually causes this noise. The inner back panel comes out fairly easily by removing the screws and then the panel. Simply re-tape the insulation with a strong bonding tape and give it a try. Hope this helps. Good luck.

Dec 08, 2009 | Fisher and Paykel Active Smart E522B...

1 Answer

Refrigerator not keeping temp.

There is normally a fan in the freezer (usually removing the back panel from inside the fridge will show it [sometimes you need to pull the bottom panel of the freezer off] The panels are normally secured with phillips head screws.). If it doesn't turn, it probably needs replacing. Make sure the coils are not iced over. [unplug while removing panels, then plug back in... the temp will have risen in the freezer so the fan should come on right away].

Make sure that the "vents" in the freezer (bottom of the freezer - in the front back or both) are not covered.

Some fridges have a separate control for fridge temp, make sure that was not moved, or try setting to a colder setting.

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1 Answer

Water in bottom of refrigerator

WARNING-It is a condition for the reader to take full responsability in attempting repairs and author shall not be responsible or liable for any damages. If you have no knowledge or experience to do this repair do not attempt it.

I have had the same issue with Fisher Paykel Active Smart fridge . This can be due to:
1) 12Volt fan in freezer is not functioning.
To test: open freezer door, place a magnet on magnet switch at the bottom of freezer where door seals(white plastic rectangle) It takes few seconds for fan to rev up so move magnet slowly until switch on. You can also close door and listen carefully if fan starts if unsure.
If fan works go to 2) 3)as defrosting resistance can be the trouble

2)If fan does not work . UNPLUG FRIDGE at the main plug
Empty freezer and defrost it if too icy (do not use sharp objects). Then on back panel you will see two holes on top. Put two hook tool and pull down and slightly forward until top lip is free. This is hard to do but the plastic panel is very strong so you can apply a bit of force there!!!
On the second panel is the fan, check wires are not broken (common cause of failure). unplug fan, you can check fan on 12V battery (+red). Buy a new fan if faulty and put freezer panel back.
3) If fan OK and you see a lot of ice on condenser (do not remove it by force, just let it melt completely) then the resistance is the cause of you trouble. It is delicate to remove and make sure FRIDGE IS UNPLUGGED! Do not force anything as condenser is very fragile and if you damaged it, your fridge can go straight to the dump. You can test the resistance with an Ohm meter to make sure internal resistance is broken or not. If broken replace it and your fridge will be fixed. If not broken then trouble is either with on board computer (very seldom) or the thermistance.

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Fisher & Paykel active smart E521T

I would reset the module. Open the fridge door, keep the freezer door closed, then press the mode button (located on the display panel. This will re initiate the electronics

Jun 07, 2008 | Fisher and Paykel Active Smart® E522BR...

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