Question about Samsung 7.3 Cu. Ft. Electric Dryer

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Samsung dv4006 dryer belt

Want to know how the belt goes around the tensioner pulley. I am on my third belt.First belt on dryer lasted 2 years but have replaced 2 belts in 4 months and they are not cheap . please help

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  • Anonymous Dec 02, 2008

    I have the same Problem!! I am on my second belt in 2 months and I was told that a dryer can not break the belt, the only way that it could be breaking them is if the pullies are off line and it's causing it to snap... So I think that it was a big mistake buying Samsung and I think that I'll be buying a different brand next time!!

  • Anonymous Dec 21, 2008

    You are right, I think this brand is a pile of ****. I have just blown through my second belt, the first lasted 3 years, the second 4 weeks. They are stupidly expensive here in Vancouver (like $50+). I am mechanically pretty sharp (I have rebuild Porsche engines in my shop) but this just looks like its a bad design. The surface area of the drive surface on the electric motor is very large, and is prone to burning the belt.

    I am not sure what my next steps are other then get another belt and try again. I tried a name brand belt last time, this time I will go for cheapest as possible and more than one.

  • Anonymous Jan 25, 2009

    Same problem guys... My fourth belt just went about 30 minutes ago. Apparently Samsung knows about the problem and isn't doing anything about it. The original belt had a steel bead. The replacement belts have a fiberglass bead.

    If you're in the Vancouver area and buy the belt from Reliable Parts they have a 90 day warranty. I paid for the first belt the other three have been free of charge.

    1st belt: 4+years

    2nd belt: 13 days

    3rd belt 3 days

    4th belt: 63 days (Used belt dressing. Increased friction between belt and drive pulley)

    Good luck to all... I'm now down to 13 minutes to replace the belt. Practice makes perfect!

  • Anonymous Feb 01, 2009

    I see the comment about "Samsung knows about this". Can we get more info about it? I am going to machine a new pulley for the motor, the crappy design needs to be fixed or I will just throw this pile of garbage away. At $50 a belt, I am tired of fixing this.

    I would like like to launch a complaint to Samsung if i had a contact.



  • mm512455 Mar 07, 2009

    Same problem here... replacement belt was $42 in Toronto at various stores.

    The design of the dryer is poor -- it's too easy for the belt to move side-to-side on the drum.  Also it is quite a hassle to change the belt as it requires the removal of many screws.

    Not to mention, samsung will not give out service manuals to the general public.  So a belt snapping could end up costing almost as much as 75% of a new dryer.

  • ericb666 Mar 30, 2009


    I just bought the same dryer with the belt broken. Now I'm trying to replace the part... Removed the top and the little door on the back. Do I have to remove the front too so I can hang the ******** the drum ? Does someone have a step by step guide to do this ?

    Thank you very much

  • Anonymous Mar 30, 2009

    Does anyone know where to buy a original belt?
    I'm looking for the part MEGADYNE PIII 1975 H7.

    I live in Vancouver, BC CANADA.

    I blew 5 replacement belts ($50 each) and really tired of changing monthly or bi-monthly.
    It seems like I really need the belt with a steel bead.

  • suckysamsung Apr 02, 2009

    This dryer sucks! We have the same problem with the belt and are now wondering if we should buy a new dryer. Sounds like we'll be needing $50.00 belts a few times a year. We've already replaced 4 in 3 years.

  • btefitch Apr 09, 2009

    Same model, same issue... only mine has just gone for the first time.

    I'm not feeling confident about my fix. Anyone who has experience (like the individual who has the fix down to 13 minutes), can you advise on how to best disassemble for the easiest replacement of the belt? I presume from the front, but a quick step-by-step would be sincerely appreciated.

    What a bother.

  • mdnagel Apr 12, 2009

    Has anyone found a replacement steel belted belt?

  • mdnagel Apr 13, 2009

    Just some additional information... The replacement belt that broke after only a few months had a significant deformation in it that suggested that it was formed by sitting on the motor pulley for an extended period of time (dryer doesn't get used a lot). I suspect that this might add to some initial startup friction and that might be a reason for the belts to snap. The guy at the parts store suggested that the problem might be caused by the pulleys having residual debris on them; I didn't recall that being the case, and felt that that was just an attempt to encourage me to buy another belt. After one replacement, and after reading all of the problems listed here, I am opting to sh$t-can this thing and go with something else: this is clearly a bad enginerring design (something I initially thought when I first looked at it when replacing the belt the first time).

    BTW - It's a DV4015J (which, I believe, is the same product group)

  • eric_aimee
    eric_aimee Jul 31, 2012

    I have had the dryer for 3 years and have gone through 3 belts.

  • gwash253
    gwash253 Oct 11, 2012

    Do you know brand of belt you or the appliance repair toronto guy is using? Could it just be the brand?

  • gwash253
    gwash253 Oct 11, 2012

    Do you know brand of belt you or the appliance repair toronto guy is using? Could it just be the brand?

  • george rich
    george rich Apr 06, 2014

    For DV4006 dryer, the belt you can buy can be anything labelled 1975 H7 for any machine. 1975 is the width and circumference, while H7 means 7 horizonal groves. You now have a wider variety of belts you can buy on ebay. I bought one made for the Zanussi dryers made in the UK for about $20. While too soon to tell seems to be an exact fit and is working. Putting the belt onto the pulley and motor is challenging. Wrap the metal drum (where clothes go in) with the belt with groves face down. From bottom of the metal drum make it go around the white spinning wheel bottom left to top to bottom right then pull the pull to the left to stretch the spring, and wrap it around the metal part groves that comes out of the motor (top left first, then bottom then top right), then belt will continue going up to the metal drum. My suggestion is NEVER dirty up the inside of the metal drum with tools or screws or you will ruin your clothes. You only need to remove the front panel of the machine, including the electronic circuitboard and the inside plastic shroud that goes over the motor exhaust. You dont need to remove the metal drum (no need). And dont be surprised if you only see 1 pulley instead of 2 pullies on this machine - this samsung design sucks and the belts keep needing to be replaced because of this crappy design. Samsung shaves off a fraction of a dollar of cost while you keep needing to replace the belt once a year.

  • george rich
    george rich Apr 06, 2014

    My other suggestion is to take detailed notes as to which type of screw goes where. They got 3-4 different types of screws some very similar looking but not the same.



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Possible replacement belt quality problem for the Samsung DV4006 / DV4006J / DV4015J / DV665JW and the Maytag MDE2400AZW dryers:

The original belt for the Samsung DV4006 / DV4006J / DV4015J / DV665JW dryers is a Megadyne 1975 H7. The part number is DC66-00121A, but when ordered, a Dongil 7PH1975 belt may be shipped instead of the original Megadyne. The Maytag MDE2400AZW dryer uses the same belt. The part number is 35001010, but when ordered, a Dongil 7PH1975 belt may be shipped. It seems that the Dongil belts are inadequate for these dryers. They delaminate and may fail prematurely. Even new, they cause a thumping sound each time the seam goes over the motor pulley. Other than Megadyne, another good belt is the Hutchinson 1975H7. The appliance part number is 1258288107.

Where to get an original Megadyne 1975 H7 belt:

eBay member 'appliance-parts' in Colorado, USA has emailed me that their Samsung DC66-00121A belts are Megadyne. Website: Email address:

eBay member 'ladydi1975' in Ohio, USA has emailed me that their Maytag 35001010 belts are Megadyne. eBay store: Discount Appliance Parts.

Where to get a Hutchinson 1975H7 belt:

eBay member: 'zodiac300_0' in Brighton, United Kingdom. I have ordered a 1975H7 belt from them and received a Hutchinson.

Other possible causes for belt failure:

--Motor pulley designed too small. The belt may be flexed beyond it's minimum rated radius.

--Excessive heat in the dryer due to lint in the vent line or vent line too long. The Dongil belt may be less heat resistant than the Megadyne.

--Worn drum bushing DC66-00062A.

--Metal burrs on the steel motor pulley. Deburr by inserting a small screwdriver in each groove while the motor is turning without the belt.

--Belt on the wrong track. The motor pulley has nine grooves and the belt has seven ribs. The belt must be in the middle. It's easy to place it one groove forward or backward by error.

--Small scratches on the drum where the belt contacts it. The scratches may be like small knives and damage the belt. Sand with a fine sandpaper.

--Idler pulley damaged or bearing worn.

How to replace the belt:

--Remove top cover.
--Remove vent panel (in back).
--Unclip door switch from front panel.
--Disconnect wire harness from door switch.
--Unscrew panel left of control console (from behind the panel).
--Unclip panel left of control console (from behind the panel).
--Unscrew control console.
--Unclip plastic panel on bottom, front
--Remove screws behind door. Remove door.
--Unscrew large front panel, remove.
--Inspect vent line for lint buildup, drum bushing (back of dryer) for wear, motor pulley for burrs and debris, drum for scratches, and idler pulley/bearing for damage.
--Vacuum all lint.
--Install belt around drum, idler pulley, and motor pulley. The ribbed side of the belt contacts the drum. The flat side of the belt contacts the idler pulley. Press on idler pulley to stretch the spring, and line up the seven belt ribs in the center of the nine motor pulley grooves.

Posted on Jul 01, 2009

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  • dumb-stump Aug 06, 2011

    My DV419AGW/XAA is generally the same, but a little different.

    To Replace my belt:

    -Remove Top Cover - two screws at the top of the back. Slide Cover straight back a few inches, then lift off.
    -Unclip Control Panel assembly (I left my wires attached and then just laid it on top out of the way.
    -Remove 4 screws holding down the plastic shiny piece, which also hods the from cover of dryer. (plastic piece does not come off, but you need to remove the screws)
    -Open Dryer door. Remove the two lowest screws on the door circle (they are not visible when door is closed). No need to remove the door.
    -Lift front dryer cover, with door, up and out - only a little because the dryer door switch is still attached.
    -Unplug dryer door switch (my need pliers to get a decent grip on it) and then set the from cover assembly asside.
    -facing the dryer, there are 4 screws that hold the the front assmbly on (this is the assembly that the drum lines up with and rides on. once the 4 screws are out you can lift it up and pull it back a little out of the securing guides. I didn't remove this, only pulled it back enough to be able to push the dryer drun up and down a little.
    -There is a felt gasket / seal that the drum rides on / in. by pulling the front assembly back a little (see previous step), I found that there was enough room for me to squeeze the new belt between the drum and this assembly to get it around the drum. It took a little pushing of the belt thru the opening, but I though it was easier than taking the whole thing off.
    -As you get the new belt in and around the drum, there are tow pulleys at the bottom that sit towards the from of the drum. The belt needs to go behind these pulleys, so I had to lift on the drum and slip the belt behind these pulleys.
    -These previous two steps are the most difficult, but really not too bad.
    -Make sure the belt is around the drum, and that it hangs approximately where the old belt was (there was an obvious mark on my drum from my old belt).
    -At this point, the belt is still loose, but you can reassemble the front.
    -Finally - Remove rear vent panel (3 screws at bottom, pull straight back) - this is where you will put the belt thru the tensioner and drive pulley after it is on the drum....last step)
    -The belt goes around the tensioner pulley and drive gear a certain way so that the belt is tight. Make sure the spring is on as you lift the tensioner pulley. Hard to explain the belt route thru the pulleys, so do a search and find a picture, it didn't take me long to locate it.
    -Also, make sure you have the grooved part of the belt facing towards the inside of the drum and that the grooves ride in the grooves on the drive gear.

    Good luck.

  • josiepk Feb 03, 2013

    Your description is spot on. Although yours is a bit different the directions were perfect with one small omission. There is an aluminum cover that the lint tray goes into that makes the process easier if removed. It is oblong in shape under the drum in the front held in place by 4 screws. Removing it allows for more play in the drum assembly to squeeze the belt behind the drum.

  • Graham Feb 09, 2013

    The Dongil belt is garbage! I went to a Industrial supply shop in the near by City of Whitby, Ontario. I order the same size belt, with same specs (Made in Germany not China) NO PROBLEMS FOR 2.5 YEARS NOW! The dryer works great! The problem is the replacement belt from Dongil. Save yourself lots of time and money and source out a new belt.

  • Jen Johnson
    Jen Johnson Aug 05, 2014

    Could u tell me the name of that supply store near Whitby Ontario pls? I'm in the same boat.


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This dryer is a piece of junk. Just bought a house with one...belt has broken twice now. It's a goner.

Posted on Nov 01, 2009

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  • geoalves Dec 30, 2010

    I bought a replacement belt (DC66-00121A) and installed it but after reassembling it I found that the belt is too loose and there is no way of increasing the tension (about 2 - 3 inches too much). There is no play unless I unhook the spring.. ...Help

  • micacidyl
    micacidyl Mar 12, 2013

    Did you find a solution to this? I had the same problem?

  • micacidyl
    micacidyl Mar 12, 2013

    I'm having the same problem... did you solve this issue?


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Buy a new dryer belt from a different manufacturer, other that Dongil!
Call around some industrial supply shops. Use the yellow pages and give them the same specs as the Dongil belt. Better yet, take the belt with you and let the experts find a replacement for you.
My new belt was made in Germany, not CHINA and cost $12.00 and has been working fine for 2.5 years.
The Dongil Belt is Garbage, don't use is! I have learned from experience.

Posted on Feb 09, 2013

  • Brian Mar 18, 2013

    Do you still have the contact to the industrial supply shop? and do you know the specs of the Dongil belt?

  • george rich
    george rich Apr 08, 2014

    Any belt with the same dimensions like: 1975 H7 will fit. Doesnt matter if it's for the maytag or for the LG. It's the same size (1975) and same number of horizontal groves (H7). LM Electrical spares on Ebay has this belt and it works fine for the DV4006. Made in UK for $20 after shipping.


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Two helpful videos:

1) How to disassemble the dryer

2) At the end of this video is how to reattach the belt to the pulley

Posted on Sep 30, 2012

  • Mike Johnson
    Mike Johnson Sep 30, 2012

    Two helpful videos:

    1) How to disassemble the dryer

    2) At the end of this video is how to reattach the belt to the pulley


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