Question about Zanussi IZ161S Front Load Washer
Hi there im the wash docotor. With your zanussis once you have removed the back half of the pannel and the top pannel. you will have to then detach the motor wire plug. then the heater wires and also the there is a sensoer on the side of the drum that also has a wiring connection. Also detactch the earth wires Then here come the tricky part. if you look on the top of the drum you have a rubber pipe connected to it comming from the washer draw detach that its easy. Then you have to dicconect the door seal from the front of the machine by the door (do not dissconect from the seal from the drum as you dont have to . Then disconnect the the drain hose. once this is all done you have to disconnect the legs, from the drum side. these are easily done as the pegs come out easily if you push in the pips from one side you can either knock them out with a hammer but it is best to pull em out with either some long bent nose pliers or gripping em in such a way with a monkey ranch Best way og getting the drum out is once you have done all that is to turn the machine onto its back and lifting the casing off leaving the drum on the floor.
Posted on Oct 10, 2006
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to say that this is potentially very bad news. The problem you describe is
almost certainly because the main bearing on the drum is worn out, allowing the
inner drum to "flop about". Grease from the bearing and rust that has formed as a result of water tight seals for the bearing breaking down causing the bearing components to rust is probably what you are seeing on your washing.
your bearings, open the door of the machine and by putting a little lifting
pressure on the top of the inner drum, attempt to rock the stainless steel
inner drum up and down.
drum is mounted on springs and shock absorbers, so it will rock about (and it
should do this) but the inner drum should not move up and down in relation to
the outer drum. There should be ABSOLUTELY NO PLAY between the 2 drums, even
the tiniest amount will mean the bearings have failed.
bearings are bad enough then other symptoms will typically include:
clonking noise as you lift and release the inner drum (this is the inner drum
rattling on its bearings and/or hitting the outer drum)
have become aware of the spin cycle becoming far noisier recently and possibly
even a grinding crunching noise when the machine spins.
may feel like something is crunching or stopping you turning it when you spin
it by hand with the door open.
from under the machine, which you will probably be able to trace to the back of
the machine, coming from the centre of the drum. This is a result of the
failing bearing allowing water to escape through the seal at the rear.
is NOT a job for the uninitiated DIY enthusiast as it will mean stripping the machine
and removing the drum from the chassis, splitting it, removing pressed in
bearings and then sourcing and re-fitting new bearings.
be frank, the cost of a bearing set (if they are replaceable, and most are)
will be about £20 ($30) or so. But it's a long and horrible job if you haven't
done it before. I know professionals who claim they can do a bearing change in
under an hour, I've done a few and it takes me about 2 hours by the time I've
ripped the machine apart and reassembled it after the bearing swap. A local
repairer will probably attend and swap out your defective drum for a
refurbished one and then take yours away so he can refurbish it and put it back
in his stock. Sadly, this will take the price up to the point where you need to
question if the expense is worth it or do you get a new machine instead.
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