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Re: Electric motor stalls
A compressor can stall before completing a cycle if the motor is not receiving correct power, such as when there is an extension cord being used or outlet is overloaded with other appliances. Other problems that cause this condition are in-tank check valve is leaking pressure back to the pump and weak or failed capacitor. Some volt meters have setting for checking caps. Reject the capacitor if reading is 90% of rated value. Rare problems include worn bearing or bad contacts on pressure switch. enjoy
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When it gets to 40 psi turn it off and see if you hear air leaking down from somewhere....if so listen and feel around the edges of the compressor head. If you hear or feel air leaking there you may need to replace a head gasket.
How long it takes to come up to pressure depends on the size of the compressor piston(s), how fast they are running and the size of the air tank attached to it. (and if the tank or hoses have leaks) A 20 gallon tank could easily take 10 minutes to get all the way up to 120 psi. 120 is very high, and probably the limit for the compressor. Depending on what you're using it for, try dropping the setting to say 80-90psi.
If your compressor is oil-less type, most likely pressure is leaking past piston ring. To verify, remove cover to expose bottom of cylinder (unplug compressor and let out all air). With flashlight, examine the upper-most part of the cylinder (turn motor by hand till piston is at top of stroke). If top of cylinder is scratched, then pressure is leaking past. For many years now, stores are in a race to have more HP and PSI to attract customers. Customer is really the loser because components used to make the units can not handle the higher pressure. Normally small 115v compressors are set to cut out at 125psi and larger two stage units will cut out at 160psi. Small compressor set to 200psi makes for short lived compressor. Could be compared to driving your car at 100mph all day every day. Longest life is attained when unit is being used at about 60 to 75 % of capacity. To allow your compressor to reach cutout pressure and keep working for a while, lower cutout to 120psi (pressure switch may be adjustable). To restore to 200psi, replace cylinder/ ring. If your compressor is oil type, suspect leaking reed valves.
It sounds like the run capacitor needs to be replaced. If yours is weak or defective the motors run windings will over heat and trip the overload. You can find replacements at "Drillspot". Another issue is using an extension cord that cannot handle the load.
You did not list model number, however if you have oilless type check the cylinder/piston by manually turning crank until piston is at top and examine cylinder for wear or scratches. If worn replace cylinder kit for full pressure. If ok check reed valves /valve plate for wear or broken reeds. If oil bath type, problem is usually air leak or reed valves / valve plate. As a general rule, you can keep track of wear by noting how many minutes it takes to fill the tank to cut-out. As the compressor wears it will take increasingly longer to fill. When new, and depending on tank size/ hp, most compessors fill within 2 ~ 5 min. Good luck
Stall is the state the armature is in just at startup. Your compressor will draw maximum power at stall. Some say there is a small surge some nano-seconds after the compressor gets rolling ... just as it begins to slow to operating speed.
A electric surge is a temporary increase in line voltage doe to any of a hundred reasons. There is a surge in your home everytime a motor starts. Lightening strike.
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