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I replaced my Rheem Ruud 62-24084-82 Ignition Module Control Board in my Rheem gas furnace last year. Has worked great until last night. Now blower purge motor starts but does not go into ignitor cycle. On board power light is ON(AN1)but green light next to it (AN2) is intermittently going on and off. I am trying to determine cause of malfunction.

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  • 1dandy1 Nov 05, 2008

    Need more information on how to test and how to jumper wires to verify part is bad. This part looks like a distributor vacuum advance module only it is a switch with several wires.

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When the purge motor turns on, the controller is waiting for proof that it is running before ignition. On your model I think it a differential pressure switch and it should be in front of the furnace. Should be able to see a pressure or vacuum line running to. If it isnt there there may be a switch inside purge motor. If there is more than 2 wires running to the motor it probable is there. Anyway the controller is waiting for proof.

Posted on Nov 05, 2008

  • butch welch Nov 05, 2008

    Do you know what a single pole douple switch is. I believe before you start jumping wires I would check the line going to the control. Can you tell me if its on the pressure or vacuum side of the fan or both. Is there plenty of air coming from the fan..If you have to jump it, jump the common and the n.o.

  • butch welch Nov 05, 2008

    You have found the right part. Before you start jumping wires make sure the line going to it is good. The fittings or connections have to be airtight, no crimps, or breaks. Can you determine if its pressure or vacuum or both. Make sure you have plenty of air coming from the fan. If you have to jump it will be the common (C) to the N.O. I would take the line off and blow it out..

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Protech 62-24084-02 troubleshooting


62-24084-02 LED CODES
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Two Blinks - Pressure switch failure (remains open)
Three Blinks - Limit switch fault
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Hello bikejocky,

MOST LIKELY you have a "hot surface" element
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About 25 years ago... I put one of my poor abused
fingers on the element to see if it was at all warm...
In so doing I touched the spot where the crack was...
and it did INDEED have a full 120 volt, 60 cycle AC
current waiting for my FINGER to complete the
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My 25 year old RHEEM... finally kicked it.
I keep spares... and bought 2 more when I used
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Since these parts are pretty cheap... I get spares
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Take a look... There are two basic configurations

The WISEST APPROACH is to use a "meter"
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Once you copy the number DIRECTLY from
YOUR OWN part... look it up... internet... eBay
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http://www.ebay.com/itm/ROBERTSHAW-41-408-Hot-surface-ignitor-NORTON-271N-/121727955205?hash=item1c578d3105:m:mJR3I8e9mTI60A-dtmvdVrw

>> It is the plug & mount that is important...!!

(consider that spare you always wanted
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~~

The cycling limit & fan
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I do know RHEEM... (ERGO... I have every confidence)
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