Question about Kenwood KAC-7202 Car Audio Amplifier

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Working on a MA Audio HC4002 amp......

This amp comes on,shows red LED for protection mode. as it is turning on,it seams to put dc current into one channel just before it goes into protect. i want to know if its the ouputs(TIP35C & TIP36C) that need replaced or the power supply mosfets(IRFZ44N)? none of either look bad or burnt. or if i can get any kind of repair manual for this amp. email me back with any answers. thanks everyone

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On an amp? All the devices should be replaced at once as they can measure or look good, but still have a high resistive leakage, and if this happens to save a couple of bucks, you can blow out all the devices you just replaced. The thing with solid state devices? Most of the time you cannot look at them and see they are bad unless they had a total blowout and blew apart and put a big hole into itself and then yes that ones bad and beleive me most of the others are too. Good Luck

Posted on Oct 09, 2006

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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1 Answer

Kenwood kac 628 red light comes on and no audio output


The red light you describe on your amp, is the protection mode warning light. An amp goes into protect for many reasons. Here's a checklist.

1st check the fuse (s) on your amp and make sure they are not blown.

2nd check the inline fuse next to your car battery (if you have an inline fuse)

3rd, disconnect the speaker wires with amp on, does the light go off?

4th check your ground, this may be ok if you have tried another amp with the same wires.

5th.if none of these turns the protect mode off, it may be an internal fault.

you may have blown transistors and it is a tricky job to repair and costly.

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The problem you are describing is typical of audio output ic problem when there is a high current load the protection circuit kicks in preventing further damage. But lets check a couple things! turn down volume, power off, and remove speaker wires from the back. now power on, if protection kicks in the audio ic needs to be replaced, if it powers up properly checks wires for shorts and speaker issues and hook up one at a time until protect comes on revealing the problem.

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If the red light is the protection LED, the amp probably has shorted output transistors. Read through the following page to eliminate other possible causes.

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Let me know if you have any other questions.

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If the amp is in protect mode, it probably has shorted output transistors. To eliminate other possible problems, do the following.

With your multimeter set to DC volts, the black meter lead on the ground terminal of the amp (not on the point where the ground wire connected to the vehicle) and the head unit on (so the amp will have remote voltage applied), touch the red lead alternately to the B+ and remote terminals of the amp. If the voltage drops below ~11 volts, you need to check the wiring feeding whichever line is dropping too low when the amp goes into protect.

If the voltage is OK, you need to check the speaker wiring and the speaker(s). Try it with a known good speaker if possible to see if the amp works normally.


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Turn the system off and disconnect the speakers. Turn the system on. If the amp still goes into protection mode with no speakers connected, then most likely the output transistors are bad. If the protection light is off, hook up one sub at a time until you find the one that is causing the problem

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1 Answer

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With your multimeter set to DC volts and the black meter lead on the ground terminal of the amp, touch the red lead alternately to the B+ and remote terminals as the amp shuts down. If the voltage drops below ~11 volts, you need to check the wiring feeding whichever line is dropping too low.


If the voltage remains near or above 12v, disconnect all speaker wires and signal cables from the amp. If it powers up, the wiring needs to be checked. If it still shuts down, the amp likely has blown output transistors.

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The red light means the amp is in protection mode. A few things can cause protection mode..... First disconnect the subs completely from the amp, and turn it on, if it powers up you have blown subs. Also try checking the main power wire at the battery...sometimes the current your meter is seeing is backfeeding from the remote wire, so your main power line could be blown at the fuse under the hood. hope this helps

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1 Answer

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Ok This is a two channel High Current amp. It is stable to one ohm. If the Subs are single voice coil at two ohms the they have to be wired in Parallel that means (Red +) (Black -) are connected to the + and - of another sub and then the (RED +) (Black -) from both go to one output channel of the amp. You pair the other two in the same fashion on the other output channel. If you are getting no output (sound) at all first check if the amplifier is going into protect. (Usually indicated by a red led on the unit. If it is connect only one Sub to each output and see if the protect LED goes out. If it does then you should have sound at the subs. If not check that you have the sub output enabled on the HU some head units do not come with the sub output enabled on the HU. If every thig is enabled, with only one sub connected to each output and the protect LED is not on then your amp is probably blown and needs repair. Nice thing is that MA has a great warrenty policy. Check and make sure the protect LED is off. If it is on you probably have the SUBS wired wrong

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1 Answer

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Your Amp is in protect. Disconnect your subs and turn it back on. IF the led goes back to green the you have a blown Sub and it will need to be replaced. If the amp stays in protect even with the subs removed the the amp is toast.

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