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Re: RESET DEFROST TIME
Please check you model. if it is a new model. most likely it is now using the adaptive defrost which is controlled by the pcb. no more mechanical timer.
if you will find the diagram and it would say you have a timer. you can look at the front, if you take the front grill off. sometimes they are located at the center wall between the drain pan and the condenser.
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Unless the machine is over 25 years old or is being used more frequently than once a day I would maintain the machine doing as many repairs as possible myself or if available have a reasonable repair service I would still consider maintaining the machine. I'm amazed at the reliability of the older units.
Many of the repair parts have had the corrections made to prevent them from failing for the same reason. This will increase the reliability of the older machines. Also in general the older units are less complex (less things to fail) and easier to repair. You should expect that a newer machine, using significantly more complexity, uses less water and electricity to achieve the same cleaning performance as an older machine.
The control electronics have an indefinite life meaning they fail for components on the board not because they wear out or get old. The likelihood of a new/replacement board failing is consistent with the likely hood of a brand new machine failing. As the control boards age they are less likely to fail.
Using u-tube and fixya and other sources of repair knowledge the older machines have a wealth of experience to bring to solving the problem The newest technology machines will have to go through the learning curve.
The question is will a new machine perform the job significantly better than the unit you have.
Hello. If your unit is running continuously, the timer/control board is defective and needs to be replaced. I need the make/model number to help you accurately. If you have the mechanical timer(round knob that turns), it's not advancing(no repair possible). If the unit has an electronic control, the program quite possibly is corrupted--or a relay is stuck causing the problem. Have you had a power outage recently--3-4 weeks ago? These are notorious for damaging the control boards from the current surge when power is restored. I hope I helped you--definitely give me the model number, thanks!
You need to allow the fridge to fully defrost now. (Even if it is a ''frost free'' unit that doesn't require ''defrosting''). If the fridge was closed during most of the power outage, it partially ''melted'' and then _froze_ solid when the power came back on. Let it totally defrost, unplugged _with doors open_ for 24 hours and it will be ok. (I realize that is a problem with food, but it must be done).
Hello Wayne, thank you for allowing me to assist you. Was the freezer unplugged during the power outage? If
it was, here are some simple troubleshooting steps you need to take:
It is best to unplug the unit
and wait for the power to come back on.
Next, turn the control to off
(or digital display), plug the unit in and reset control to factory-suggested
Do not open freezer door
unnecessarily if freezer is off for several hours. Make sure the refrigerator
plug is tightly pushed into electrical outlet and not plugged into a GFI.
If your unit
has no power and it is not due to a power outage, check the following:
Verify that the temperature
control is set to the OFF position.
Set temperature controls to
proper setting suggested by your owner's guide; or set to the halfway point and
adjust it up or down as needed.
basic troubleshooting tips prove ineffective, the power loss may have possibly
caused a communication problem with the control board, temperature control or
wiring harness. At this point, I would recommend having a service technician to
diagnose the problem before investing in unnecessary parts.
Your defroster mechanism inside the unit has gone out. What this is is a long tube that heats up to maintain the ice from forming as you say. It possibly went out at the last defrost cycle as you had stated. this defrost cycle is done by the fridge on its own as the has been designed to do. I would suggeest having the unit serviced by a tech since you have an intergrated system. Good Luck on your Repairs
sometimes can be solved by loosely coiling a piece of solid copper wire around the defrost heating element and down into the drain a little. the radiant heat on the wire during defrost cycle may help keep the drain open
If the problem just gradually started happening, it's possibly the defrost cycle that's not working right. Fridge doesn't defrost, the cooling system ices up, and the cold air can no longer travel through the fridge.
You can tell that's the problem if you fully defrost the fridge (turn it off for a day), then start it up again. If it works OK for a while, then does the same thing after a few weeks that's what it is. Either way, you need a repair person to fix it, or you need to defrost it regularly, but then what do you do with your food while you do that???
What you may be noticing is the system going through a defrost cycle. Check the time of the day that you notice this event. If it happens at the same times it could be a normal situation if at all other times normal temperatures are being maintained. A popping sound can be caused by thermal expansion during the defrost.
What make and model is this unit. It sounds like it could be an error code. Possibly a thermal fuse or something in the defrost cycle. Try unpluging the unit for 15 mins and plug it in again. It will at least reset it and it may run until it hits the defrost cycle again. You are most likely going to require service.