Keep spinning When it washing, the tub is spining and aditate at the same time. This happen when the lid is open. Should it spin when the lid is open. It a top loader. Kenmore 110. I check the swith and it seam ok.

There is a bad spot in the timer when this is happening!!! It may work sometimes but when It gets to that spot, it won't, until you lift the lid and close it back down!!! Replace the timer!!!

Btw, I’m available to help over the phone in case u need at https://www.6ya.com/expert/charles_c2f37a3461344482

the clutch isn't falling until you manually open the lid then you hear a clunk and then the tub spins you have a bad timer.if it had anything to do with the ****** it wouldn't spin no matter what the timer part number is 8546681 and it's 74 dollars on the sears site,also you can go to this site http://www.repairclinic.com/PartDetail/Circuit-Board-or-Timer/8546681/1060743 and they will take back any part up to 1 years time,you can't beat that and it's 76 dollars here.hope this helps and good luck.let me know how you make out,

Hello- First unplug the washer. The out-of-balance switch may have gotten tripped. If you open the lid and look in the space between the tub and the top in the rear right corner you should see a plastic "arm" sticking down, reach you hand back there and move it back away from the tub. This lever actuates a switch in the control panel that will prevent it from spinning if there is pressure on it, it should be hanging freely away from the tub. Plug the machine back in and test it. If it doesn't work another thing that may be happening is the tub is not engaging on the transmission. With the tub empty reach inside the top perimeter of the tub and lift it up and let it down a few times, sometimes this will reset it and get it to spin. Lastly, i would check that the lid is locking when you put it into spin, the lid lock light should come on and you should not be able to lift the lid. If the lid is not locking you may need to have a F/P Tech out to replace the lid lock. You can test the spin by setting the machine to Permanent Press and advancing the cycle to spin. It will take a few minutes to start spinning usually. Let me know what you discover, good luck. Best regards.

Check the Motor,the lid switch and the connections. If it doesn't pump water out or spin, check to see if the motor is running, then proceed as follows: If the motor is running, your washer probably has a frozen pump pulley or a broken pump belt. To check the pulley, remove the pump from the washer and try to rotate the pulley manually. If it doesn't turn freely--if it's frozen or stiff--replace it. If the pump belt is broken or looks quite worn, replace it--but be sure to check the pump pulley before you change the belt. If the motor isn't running, the lid switch may be defective. If so, the washing machine can't spin and may not function at all. The switch is inside the washing machine main housing near the door frame. Often you have to raise or open the top or front of the washing machine to get to the switch. If it's defective, you need to replace it. If your washer pumps out the water but doesn't spin, check these:The lid switch may be defective. If it is, the washing machine doesn't spin. The switch is inside the washing machine main housing near the door frame. Often you have to raise or open the top or front of the washing machine to get to the switch. If it's defective, you need to replace it. The motor coupler may be broken. A belt may be broken. Many washing machines have one or two belts. If a belt is broken or badly worn, you need to replace it with a genuine belt from the manufacturer. The clutch may be worn.The drive motor may be defective. For agitation the motor runs in one direction, for spinning and draining, the other. It's possible for a motor to burn out in one direction and continue to operate in the other.

The transmission may not be shifting properly. The spin bearing or basket drive may be worn or seized. These components allow the inner tub to spin freely inside the outer tub. When this is the problem, you usually hear a loud sound during the spin cycle. You can get required parts fromwww.repairclinic.com
get to the lid switch by removing the front first then removing the top. The lid switch has a quick connect. Unplug that and check for continuity or simply by pass it at that point to see if that washer wakes up.Set the meter on ohms and see if you have continuity between the 2 pins of your lid switch assembly.
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motor problem mostly . It doesn't spin If your washer won't spin, check these:

It doesn't pump or spin
It pumps, but doesn't spin
It spins only with the lid closed
It doesn't pump or spin If it doesn't pump water out or spin, check to see if the motor is running, then proceed as follows:

• If the motor is running, your washer probably has a frozen pump pulley or a broken pump belt. To check the pulley, remove the pump from the washer and try to rotate the pulley manually. If it doesn't turn freely--if it's frozen or stiff--replace it. If the pump belt is broken or looks quite worn, replace it--but be sure to check the pump pulley before you change the belt.



• If the motor isn't running, the lid switch may be defective. If so, the washing machine can't spin and may not function at all. The switch is inside the washing machine main housing near the door frame. Often you have to raise or open the top or front of the washing machine to get to the switch. If it's defective, you need to replace it.

It pumps, but doesn't spin If your washer pumps out the water but doesn't spin, check these:

• The lid switch may be defective. If it is, the washing machine doesn't spin. The switch is inside the washing machine main housing near the door frame. Often you have to raise or open the top or front of the washing machine to get to the switch. If it's defective, you need to replace it.



• The motor coupler may be broken. Many Whirlpool®-manufactured washers use a small, relatively inexpensive motor coupling. It's plastic and rubber and is mounted to the shaft of the motor on one side, and to the transmission on the other. Over time, the coupler wears out and fails. You may need to replace it.



• A belt may be broken. Many washing machines have one or two belts. If a belt is broken or badly worn, you need to replace it with a genuine belt from the manufacturer. (Some washing machine belts are designed with special characteristics not found in automotive belts.)



• The clutch may be worn. If your washer is a GE, it may use a clutch to come up to the proper spin speed. As the clutch wears out, it may prevent the unit from spinning well or at all. If the clutch is worn, you need to replace it. For this job, you probably want to hire a qualified appliance repair technician.



• The drive motor may be defective. Many washer brands use a reversing motor. For agitation the motor runs in one direction, for spinning and draining, the other. It's possible for a motor to burn out in one direction and continue to operate in the other. If this happens, you need to replace the entire motor.



• The transmission may not be shifting properly. Older washers produced by Whirlpool® have a transmission with an electro-mechanical shifter. If the shifter becomes even partially defective, the unit may drain the water but not spin. This is a complex system, if your washer has a shifter problem, you may want to hire a qualified appliance repair technician to repair it.



• The spin bearing or basket drive may be worn or seized. These components allow the inner tub to spin freely inside the outer tub. When this is the problem, you usually hear a loud sound during the spin cycle. Call a qualified appliance repair technician.

It spins only with the lid closed For safety, washing machines are made so that they spin only with the lid closed. The lid switch prevents the spinning action when the lid is up.

It doesn't spin If your washer won't spin, check these:

It doesn't pump or spin
It pumps, but doesn't spin
It spins only with the lid closed
It doesn't pump or spin If it doesn't pump water out or spin, check to see if the motor is running, then proceed as follows:

• If the motor is running, your washer probably has a frozen pump pulley or a broken pump belt. To check the pulley, remove the pump from the washer and try to rotate the pulley manually. If it doesn't turn freely--if it's frozen or stiff--replace it. If the pump belt is broken or looks quite worn, replace it--but be sure to check the pump pulley before you change the belt.



• If the motor isn't running, the lid switch may be defective. If so, the washing machine can't spin and may not function at all. The switch is inside the washing machine main housing near the door frame. Often you have to raise or open the top or front of the washing machine to get to the switch. If it's defective, you need to replace it.

It pumps, but doesn't spin If your washer pumps out the water but doesn't spin, check these:

• The lid switch may be defective. If it is, the washing machine doesn't spin. The switch is inside the washing machine main housing near the door frame. Often you have to raise or open the top or front of the washing machine to get to the switch. If it's defective, you need to replace it.



• The motor coupler may be broken. Many Whirlpool®-manufactured washers use a small, relatively inexpensive motor coupling. It's plastic and rubber and is mounted to the shaft of the motor on one side, and to the transmission on the other. Over time, the coupler wears out and fails. You may need to replace it.



• A belt may be broken. Many washing machines have one or two belts. If a belt is broken or badly worn, you need to replace it with a genuine belt from the manufacturer. (Some washing machine belts are designed with special characteristics not found in automotive belts.)



• The clutch may be worn. If your washer is a GE, it may use a clutch to come up to the proper spin speed. As the clutch wears out, it may prevent the unit from spinning well or at all. If the clutch is worn, you need to replace it. For this job, you probably want to hire a qualified appliance repair technician.



• The drive motor may be defective. Many washer brands use a reversing motor. For agitation the motor runs in one direction, for spinning and draining, the other. It's possible for a motor to burn out in one direction and continue to operate in the other. If this happens, you need to replace the entire motor.



• The transmission may not be shifting properly. Older washers produced by Whirlpool® have a transmission with an electro-mechanical shifter. If the shifter becomes even partially defective, the unit may drain the water but not spin. This is a complex system, if your washer has a shifter problem, you may want to hire a qualified appliance repair technician to repair it.



• The spin bearing or basket drive may be worn or seized. These components allow the inner tub to spin freely inside the outer tub. When this is the problem, you usually hear a loud sound during the spin cycle. Call a qualified appliance repair technician.

It spins only with the lid closed For safety, washing machines are made so that they spin only with the lid closed. The lid switch prevents the spinning action when the lid is up.

Hi

If your washer won't spin, check these:

It doesn't pump or spin If it doesn't pump water out or spin, check to see if the motor is running, then proceed as follows:

• If the motor is running, your washer probably has a frozen pump pulley or a broken pump belt. To check the pulley, remove the pump from the washer and try to rotate the pulley manually. If it doesn't turn freely--if it's frozen or stiff--replace it. If the pump belt is broken or looks quite worn, replace it--but be sure to check the pump pulley before you change the belt.



• If the motor isn't running, the lid switch may be defective. If so, the washing machine can't spin and may not function at all. The switch is inside the washing machine main housing near the door frame. Often you have to raise or open the top or front of the washing machine to get to the switch. If it's defective, you need to replace it.

It pumps, but doesn't spin If your washer pumps out the water but doesn't spin, check these:

• The lid switch may be defective. If it is, the washing machine doesn't spin. The switch is inside the washing machine main housing near the door frame. Often you have to raise or open the top or front of the washing machine to get to the switch. If it's defective, you need to replace it.



• The motor coupler may be broken. Many Whirlpool®-manufactured washers use a small, relatively inexpensive motor coupling. It's plastic and rubber and is mounted to the shaft of the motor on one side, and to the transmission on the other. Over time, the coupler wears out and fails. You may need to replace it.



• A belt may be broken. Many washing machines have one or two belts. If a belt is broken or badly worn, you need to replace it with a genuine belt from the manufacturer. (Some washing machine belts are designed with special characteristics not found in automotive belts.)



• The clutch may be worn. If your washer is a GE, it may use a clutch to come up to the proper spin speed. As the clutch wears out, it may prevent the unit from spinning well or at all. If the clutch is worn, you need to replace it. For this job, you probably want to hire a qualified appliance repair technician.



• The drive motor may be defective. Many washer brands use a reversing motor. For agitation the motor runs in one direction, for spinning and draining, the other. It's possible for a motor to burn out in one direction and continue to operate in the other. If this happens, you need to replace the entire motor.



• The transmission may not be shifting properly. Older washers produced by Whirlpool® have a transmission with an electro-mechanical shifter. If the shifter becomes even partially defective, the unit may drain the water but not spin. This is a complex system, if your washer has a shifter problem, you may want to hire a qualified appliance repair technician to repair it.



• The spin bearing or basket drive may be worn or seized. These components allow the inner tub to spin freely inside the outer tub. When this is the problem, you usually hear a loud sound during the spin cycle. Call a qualified appliance repair technician.

It spins only with the lid closed For safety, washing machines are made so that they spin only with the lid closed. The lid switch prevents the spinning action when the lid is up.


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Thanks

Rylee

That's an easy one... There is something caught in your diverter valve, keeping it partly open in spin, so that when the water is supposed to be draining out the drain hose, some of it is gettng back up to the recirculator hose, spilling onto the spining tub and then out onto the floor...

You may have a problem with the rotor position sensor. This sensor is situated on the motor windings and should really be replaced by a qualified tech.

It sound like a belt problem. Try to move tub manually first, in case it move smoothly -open the front panel, the belt should be between the motor and the drive pulley (lower front). In case it torn or not in its place, you should replace it. In case it doesn't move smoothly - maybe that a sock or other piece of clothing get between the clothes tub and the outer tub and prevent tub's spining. If this is the situation, it should be removed. Good luck !!