So i got two JBL gt10801 subs that are 250 rms each and i think SVC 8 Ohm Impendance..I also got MTX Thunder 8302 amp along with it.. I wanted to test my subs since i did not have wiring for my car yet so my friend hooked up one of the subs to one of the channels of and it was pounding good. Then he hooked up the other sub to to the other amp and everythign was sounding pretty good for how much wattage the amp was giving out. I dont know what he was doing but i know he was playing with the buttons and stuff on it (amp over and rca over). I told him before to tighten the ground properly but he said as long as its touching then its good. So the amp was on the sub box and all of a sudden there is no more bass. My bro says shut it off becuase he smelt something liek burning rubber. We checked and it was coming from the amp, and the groudn wire wasnt in teh back of the amp. The amps red light turns on but sometimes takes forever to turn off even when the power cable is out, and there is no power at all going to the subs.
Anyone have any suggestions, and if my amp is a lost cause?
How much the price would be to repair?
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Re: Amp not workign!
The way you were testing the amps is a common way that alot of people do and this is the main caise for the amps to blow up.. An amp should always have a BOLTED ground and B+ connection as well as good speaker connections to ensure no intermittant connections. When the intermittants do occour, these solid state amps are very unforgiving and will instantly short out one or more of the output devices or take out the switching power supply. Im afraid you cannot guess with the repair price on a unit like these, as it could have taken out one resistor or a whole line of solid state output devices. the only true way to tell would be to bench test the units with the proper equipment. I would be quessing, your repairs are going to go from 65.00 all the way up to 200.00 bucks, most likly excedding the cost of most amps.
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if you wire the 4 ohm sub voice coils in parallel you will have a 2 ohm load for the Image Dynamics sub, the JL sub only being single voice coil will of course be 3 ohm. You cannot connect them both to the amp you specified as when connected the total load will be less than 2ohms and the amp will either trip it's protection circuit or could damage the amp, My suggestion is to try each sub separately and decide on the one you like the most or obtain a matching pair for the 4ohm DVC.
hi Dan....Have you had any other service or installs shortly prior to the onset of clipping? In any case, the 8302 has Onboard Thermal Protection which is kicking in due to excessive heat. If you've had this running fine for a period of time, by that I mean at least a month, then we need to focus on why you're suddenly overheating......please update your post with any further information and progress.....good luck my friend
Is there a option on the chanels that say ''Bridged''? If so, you can hook the subs up in parellel or series to get different ohm loads. Usually the lower ohms, the more power amp puts out. Those subs can handle 225 watts RMS whitch means the power it can handle constantly. If the amp gives more than 225 watts RMs, you could be at risk of blowing the sub. If you could give me the model # of the amp, I can be of more help.
I believe these are 4ohms, if so buy a 2ohm stable monoblock amp, that puts out 250-300 watts RMS, and connect your subs to it in parallel, don't pay attention to peak watts, look at RMS watts, or continuous watts. If they're 2 ohms, buy a 2 ohm stable 2 channel amp that puts out 125-150 watts RMS per channel, and 250-300 watts total or bridged RMS output. And connect them normally, on sub per channel... hope this helps, as far as brand recommendations, MTX, pioneer, Alpine, Kenwood... Good luck
The amount of power that youre going to run on those 5.25s might indicate that you need to turn the crossover to a higher cutoff frequency because they gonna want to kick pretty hard if your set too low - Sounds like you got it under control though flip it to high-pass(HP) and see how it does at around 100 HZ cutoff- be sure to turn off any bass boost on the amp though too- Let me know how them soundstream mids do- I have a set of subs that kick *** but i never have heard anything about their mids-good luck
You can also test the output with the multimeter. Set the multimeter to AC volts. If it's not an auto-ranging meter, set it to a voltage range of ~2v AC. Disconnect the RCA cables from the head unit. Touch one meter probe to the outer ring of the head unit's RCA jack. Touch the other probe to the metal contact in the center of the RCA jack. With the head unit near full volume and a clean signal source, you should read at least one volt on musical peaks. If you have a bass disc or a test tone disc (~60hz sine wave), use those.
hi, first disconnect the rca input, then switch on headunit and if the amp produces a constant bass thump it then means it has an internal fault. if the amp idles quietly then replace the rca cable, or try connecting the headunit lineout feed directly to the bass amp, in this way you cud find out if your fault is coming from the headunit or the equaliser. cheers