Question about JBL EON 15-G2 Powered DJ Speaker With EQ Speaker

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Hiss from the tweeter nothing from the sub

"yard sale" purchased, hoping for a diagnosis. I have ran my bass through a 4 track mixer into the speaker and through a mixing board into the speaker(with and without phantom power) I have to turn the volume on the speaker up to about 3/4 of the way to hear anything then its a hiss and the bass (or guitar) sounds awful with a high pitch coming only from the top horn. Invest in repairs or trash?

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  • Anonymous May 13, 2009

    I have the same problem from my new JBL EON 15-G2's. I bought a pair brand new and when you turn the power on you get quite a bit of "hiss" noise from them. It's distracting and dissapointing coming from a top name such as JBL and the high price of these speakers. These are supposed to be top-notch speakers yet they have this awful hiss to them. It's covered up when actually playing a signal through them, but during the pauses they do hiss a lot. What causes this and why did JBL allow them to be produced with this noise?

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Trash. Don't run your bass through speakers not designed for it. Likewise (from personal experience) don't allow microphone feedback to get into consumer speakers. Bye-bye tweeters in either case.

Posted on Apr 04, 2009

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My jamo d115 speaker tweeter distorts or rattels when any serious bass kicks in, how do you stop this?w


Possible this is a distortion from the Amplifier if the speakers are not damaged. however it is important to switch the speakers to confirm if the fault is relative to the particular channel in which case the amplifier is faulty. If not the speaker can be the culprit. All what is needed is to reduce the BASS level a bit lower when the volume is increased so as to allow the cross over to work. Also if teh cross- over network is faulty within the speaker the bass can vibrate on the tweeter.

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I lost the treble on both Alesis Monitor 1 speakers. The treble is good on the amp output toward the speakers. I'm thinking they went out one at a time and I didn't realize it until I lost the...


It's probably blown tweeters. But if you want to spend the money on a hipshot guess, try to find the the crossovers somewhere first; then find the readily available tweeters if/when that doesn't work out. Google "alesis monitor one MK2 tweeter".

You could test the tweeters by just removing one non-functional tweeter and wiring it directly to the speaker leads and with REALLY LOW volume containing NO BASS see if it makes any sound, which would prove it does/does not work.

Going forward, if the speakers sound stressed at high volume - THEY ARE. Too much power or too much distortion (overdriven amplifier) will kill speakers.

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Mackie SRM 450, the main speaker has stopped working but the tweeter is OK, there is nothing coming from the speaker at all, no hiss, or clicks.


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No sound from tweeter bx5a


First of all, never connect the audio from your receiver directly to the tweeter. You can blow the tweeter instantly. The mid-bass driver can be damaged from a direct connection as well.

Since you get absolutely no sound from either driver, this seems to implicate the crossover. If the crossover has opened, no signal gets through, if it has opened early in the signal path.

But, it is also possible that a short exists, and that perhaps your amp cuts off the output having sensed a short. The short could be in the crossover or one of the drivers.

Here are some troubleshooting tips--

To prevent damage to your amp, turn it off while making or breaking any connections inside the speaker boxes.

Write down which wires get connected to which place on the drivers, so you can get them back where they belong.

With your amp turned off, connect the bad speaker to your amp. You've already verified that no sound is produced when both drivers are connected.

So, with your amp off, disconnect one wire from the tweeter in the bad box.

Briefly turn your amp on and listen for sound.

If you get sound, the tweeter is shorted.

If you get no sound, with the amp off, reconnect the tweeter in the bad box and disconnect one wire from the mid-bass driver.

Briefly turn the amp on and listen before turning the amp off.

If you get sound now, but not before, the mid-bass driver is shorted.

If you got no sound either way, check the DC resistance of the mid-bass driver (only, not the tweeter. Ohmmeters put out a small DC voltage to test resistance. That DC voltage might damage a tweeter, maybe. Don't risk it). Ohm the mid-bass driver while it is not connected to the crossover. If the driver is good, you should read some ohms--a little less than the stated impedance. An 8 ohm driver might read 6.5 ohms, for instance. If you get an open or a short (with the crossover disconnected from the mid-bass driver) you have a blown driver. Two actually, since neither the tweeter nor the mid-bass driver produced any sound in the previous tests.

If you can't get ahold of an ohmmeter, try this--

Open the good, working speaker and place the two side by side.

Connect your amp to the bad speaker box only.

With your amp turned off, disconnect the wires from the mid-bass driver in the bad box and connect them to the mid-bass driver in the good box. Disconnect one of the wires from the "good" mid-bass driver first, so you don't have two crossovers connected to it at the same time--even if only one of them will get powered on. It keeps the confusion down to a minimum when trying to isolate your problem. Oh, and disconnect one wire from the bad tweeter, in case it is shorted.

Turn the amp on and listen briefly before turning the amp off.

If you got sound, the "bad" crossover is fine, but the "bad" mid-bass driver is blown. And, since you got no sound in the previous tests, the "bad" tweeter is blown, as well.

If you got no sound, try it the other way around. Meaning--

With the amp off, disconnect the speaker wires coming from your amp from the bad speaker box and connect them to the good speaker box.

Your amp is now connected only to the good speaker box.

With the amp still off, connect the mid-bass wires from the good box to the mid-bass driver in the bad box. Remember to disconnect one of the "bad" crossover wires from its own driver first, so only one crossover is connected to the "bad" mid-midbass driver. Remember to disconnect one wire from the "good" and "bad" tweeters, so the only sound you hear--if any--is from the "bad" mid-bass driver, powered by the "good" crossover.

If this produces sound, but the previous attempts failed, you have a crossover problem.

If you still get no sound, something went wrong and you need to retest the good speaker by itself and back up a few steps and try again.

Assuming you got sound from the "good" crossover while it was driving your "bad" mid-bass, make sure no wires have come loose inside the "bad" box. Assuming you have sound connections at each end of each wire, you now need to desolder the electrolytic capacitors from the circuit board.

Make sure you mark them first, so you can put them back where they belong.

You can remove only one at a time, if that helps.

Use an ohmmeter to check some components.

The big red coil should read pretty close to a short, maybe one ohm.

The capacitors should read open or infinite resistance, although you might see a steadily increasing resistance while the capacitor charges up from the ohmmeter. If you read a steady low resistance on a capacitor after it has been removed from the circuit board, that capacitor is bad and must be replaced. The markings on the capacitor should give you some clues as to the proper replacement.

All things considered, I suspect that your problem is a shorted electrolytic capacitor. But, I gave you all I could think of so you can narrow it down and isolate the problem, whatever it might be.

I hope this helps.

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How to take the speaker apart to repair or replace tweeter


Take off/unscrew the upper bass/mid , insert your hand and gently twist the tweeter magnet assembly anti-clockwise about a quarter of a turn, and remove thru upper bass hole Peter Speakerworks.com.au

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Line outs Left and Right from mixer to power amp Left and Right inputs,
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From Subs then to Main spkrs. Make sure power amp is set in stereo mode using this way.

Alternative: You will need at least a 2-way stereo crossover unit inline after mixer and before power amps if the subs don't have a built in passive crossover. Most of them do have passive crossovers in the subs these days. Then separate amps or one channel would drive the subs and the other the main speakers. True stereo would require at least a 2 way crossover and two stereo power amps if hooking them up this way.

There is another option as is common with many sub setups. Send the signal to the mains using L/R outputs from mixer and a separate Mono output to the subs only. Putting only bass/kick and low frequency outputs in this send would help too.

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A Tweeter being out of phase should not have any effect on the sub.

If one tweeter is out of phase with the other there will still be sound in the room as due to the high frequency the unequal time to your ear will mean you won't get perfect destructive interference and the signals won't cancel. Also the two tweeter signals convey much less information in common than a subwoofer or bass speaker.

Regards,
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