Question about Ovens
I have a Jenn-Air W121 wall mounted convection oven. I took the thermostat assembly apart and burnished the contacts.
My problem is that I can not reassemble it. There is two contract pieces, 2 strong springs and one small spring. Tried lots of ways but no of them seems to fit back right.
I could sure use some help in finding out how to reassemble the contacts and springs.
Thanks so much for any help.
... Ross Burrus email@example.com
toll free telephone (877-448-6414)
try to open the door see if the door latch is extended if it is locate the light switch on the oven cavity and hold it in then hit start then cancel or stop the latch rod should go back
Posted on Dec 29, 2007
The "F2" means the oven control senses runaway temperature.
The cause of the problem could be the oven sensor, the oven sensor wire harness or the power relay board.
PS:please disconnect your oven from power supply completely before continuing.
Open the control panel and measure the oven sensor resistance at the control board. It suppose to be about 1100 Ohms at the room temperature.
If the reading is wrong do the same test at the oven sensor connection (where the sensor wires goes through the back panel).
If the reading is still wrong - replace the oven sensor.
If the reading is correct, check the wire harness and the connector itself (it's better to eliminate the plastic plug and hardwire the oven sensor).
If there is nothing wrong then the power relay board has to be replaced.
Posted on Nov 07, 2008
IF YOUR HEATING ELEMENT IS GETTING ORANGE HOT, AND CYCLING, I WOULD SUSPECT THE THERMOSTAT TO BE THE SOURCE OF THE PROBLEM. YOU MAY FIND IT HARD TO FIND ONE THOUGH DUE TO ITS AGE.
Posted on Jan 28, 2009
BrianGem posted a great solution back in May of '08, I just completed that fix on my own Jenn air, took me about 30 minutes once I got the correct capacitor.
The display board apparently has a weak spot in the design, most likely heat related, (probably low priced components from offshore sources)
Fix: Replace heat damaged capacitor labeled C3 on display board, Hard part will be obtaining the 35Volt 68uF capacitor, I'm lucky enough to have a Brother in the electronics design field who found me a couple of high reliability caps designed for hot applications, He does not recommend changing sizes without design review for fear of overloading another component, however several other posts have indicated that a 35V 100mF cap has worked fine for them.
TURN OFF POWER TO OVEN PRIOR TO STARTING ANY REPAIRS.
My control panel was attached to the oven with 4 screws accessed from above the top oven door, the panel slid up about 1/2 " and lifted off, Unplug the ribbon cables and the panel can be removed to a convenient work surface. The display board itself is mounted with 4 screws and connected with a wide flat ribbon cable, the suspect capacitor is surface mounted to the reverse side of the board, two plastic clips need to be released (gently) and the ribbon cable unplugged. Capacitor is likely discolored or leaking, Using as small a soldering iron as you can find De-solder it and replace with new, match polarity marks and don’t use any more solder than needed.
If you run into trouble drop me an e-mail to firstname.lastname@example.org and I’ll try to help.
Thanks for this site..
Link to Photo sequence of capacitor replacement (Captions still will not link):
Posted on Oct 12, 2009
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