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Sears gas grill

Just bought a sears gas grill. when testing for gas leaks there was one at the gas regulator connected to the lp bottle. tried another lp bottle but there was still a leak. tested both bottles on old weber grill and no leaks. (used sudsy water in spray bottle)

never had this happen with a gas regulator, i want to return entire grill and buy a different brand instead of just asking for new regulator, afraid new regulator may become defective in the future.

any suggestions?

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  • Anonymous Mar 29, 2014

    Hi my regulator is for a propane bottle but can I simply change the regulator to continue using the butane gas from my old BBQ? Thanks

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If it was me I would return it. You did the right thing by testing it on another grill. You should not have to accept a new grill that is not working properly.

Loringh

Posted on Nov 06, 2008

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I can only assume your talking about the regulator and screw on connection. These can be bought at most large hardware stores including sears to fit most if not all grills. They basically all use the same type of regulator and gas supply lines. Fot this protable grill you may have to get online at
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Mainly because LP is heavier than air. So instead of dissipating like natural gas into the atmosphere, LP tends to hang around and puddle up. That is why you always need to bubble test for leaks. On these newer tanks Mr Ralph Nader has been at work. New regulation shut down the gas internally if the gas goes out the bottle too fast. So it is best to have all valves closed and SLOWLY open the valve so you won't trip the safety device inside.

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age of the grill is irrelevant, i am old and i still can do few thingzzzz...

i assume that your regulator is connected directly to the bottle, then hose to your bottle, then hose is connected to the regulator and other end to the grill?

or it is bottle, hose, regulator, grill?

you need to follow the path regardless, be outside, light breeze is better, no open flame in at least 20m (yards) radius in any direction.

1. close gas bottle/tank
2. disconnect, everything from the bottle
3. crack open tank valve and hear if gas is escaping, close valve back
4. connect regulator to the bottle and again crack open the valve, hear if you have esacping gas, allow actually whiff of gas against your cheek or wetted finger to establish the flow. close the valve
5. connect hose to the regulator (procedure is reversed if first is hose and then regulator), crack open the valve, hear for escaping gas, check against wetted finger and cheek if there is flow, close the valve
6. connect your grill open all valves on it and open valve on the tank/bottle. allow free flow for about 30sec, close valves on grill. vent grill for about two minutes, try to ignite any of the burners. if burner ignite, you solved the problem, if they do not, and you did have flow on all previous stages, close bottle valve, disconnect everything from grill, clean grill valves and nozzles (burner have nozzle inside!), reconnect and vent again, try ignite, if ignition occures, you solve the problem, if not, then you are due for new grill...

if at any stage you do not have gas flow, this meant that this particular piece of equipment is in trouble, this particular piece of equipment need then repair or replacement, under no circumstance pull apart the reducer! NO OPEN FLAME DURING TESTING!!!

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Propane will not flow properly when it is too cold.

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The natural gas jet will be slightly larger than the propane jet because natural gas doesn't have as high a heating value as propane.

If you do this, check your new conversion for any leaks using a soap solution in a spray bottle.

Just be aware that the grill may not get as hot with natural gas and cooking could take a little longer, but should still work just fine.

Your natural gas line should typically be about 1/2" unless it's huge or is over 50-60 feet away from the grill location. If so, use a 3/4" line. Piping material and methods are usually governed by your local building codes.

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All LP tanks now come equipped with a leak detection device internal to the tank, when gas is allowed to escape rapidly it will restrict the gas supply to the appliance. Opening the valve rapidly may simulate a gas leak, causing the safety device to activate, restricting gas flow and causing low flames or poor ignition.

Opening the valve slowly will insure this safety feature is not falsely triggered."

I would guess you triggered the tank failsafe inadvertently.

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Often with a big bottle, people turn the gas off and on at the big bottle and leave the grill valve open. That makes the regulator see a low pressure on its output, which is a potential leak indication. It goes into "bypass". Try turning off the tank, turning off the grill valve, and turning on the tank, then waiting 20-ish seconds before turning the grill valve on.

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Since 1995 all regulators (the part that attaches to the gas tank to regulate the flow of gas) have included a safety device that restricts the flow of gas in the event of a gas leak. This safety device can be inadvertently activated in two ways, putting the grill into what is commonly called “bypass”. The first way for the device to be activated is to leave one or more burner control knobs in the “ON” position when the LP cylinder valve is opened. The second is not to wait long enough to “start” the grill after opening the LP cylinder valve. The safety device in the regulator is activated each time that the LP cylinder valve is opened. The device resets itself when the gas pressure equalizes between the closed burner control valve and the regulator, through the hose. If a burner control knob is turned on before the gas pressure can equalize, the device will remain in “bypass”. The length of time necessary to wait to “start” the grill after turning on the LP cylinder valve is dependent on the length of the hose and outside air temperature. It is always good practice to wait a few seconds after opening the LP cylinder valve before turning on the burner control knob to start the grill.
Keep in mind that the safety device reacts to a gas leak. If a grill is in bypass, the gas connections and hose should be tested for leaks with a soap and water solution.
If the grill is in bypass, after checking for gas leaks do the following to get the grill out of bypass:
To reset the gas safety device:
Open the barbecue lid.
1. Close the LP tank valve.
2. Turn your burner control knob to the OFF position.
3. Wait at least 5 minutes if the barbecue had been lit, then
4. Disconnect the hose from the LP tank.
5. Turn your burner control knob to the HIGH position.
6. Wait at least 2 minutes, and then turn the burner control knob to the OFF position.
7. Re-connect the hose to the LP tank.
Re-lighting the barbecue:
1. Open the barbecue lid.
2. SLOWLY open the LP tank valve all the way and wait 1 minute.
3. With the lid open, turn the burner control knob to the HIGH position.
4. Ignite the grill by pushing the crossover ignition button.
5. Close the barbecue lid.
6. The barbecue should reach 500 to 550 degrees in 10-15 minutes.
When you are done grilling:
1. Turn all burner control knobs to the OFF position
2. Turn off the LP tank valve last.
* Always follow the re-lighting instructions whenever you use the adapter hose and larger tank.

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