Question about ViewSonic VG720 (Black, Silver) 17" LCD Monitor
I just purchased this monitor. The analog hook-up works just fine but I can't get the digital hook-up to work? When I hook up the digital, the screen is black but the green light is on. Don't know what to do.
PLEASE read Carefully so here is a fix for the green blinking light ...the monitor is going into shutdown....protect mode......THIS is ...Only for the seasoned electronic service tech ......YOU NEED TO BE into Electronics ..or have electronic background and know how to solder to do this........I been doing repairs for 30 years now ..............After extencive troubleshooting and replaceing a lot of electrolitic caps on the inverter board and spending about 10 hours doing so ....i decided to eather go for broke and blow this up more or trash the unit......................Well my blinking light deal went away...my monitor you could see it trying to start and just shut down............first of all make sure you have no broken solder work on the inverter board or swelled up caps ...Thay use lead free solder so the solder work sucks also...........I did pull the main buss line from the inverter pc board that runs the transformers to test to see where the trouble is.....found its at the high voltage end of the inverter board and The viewsonic 922 uses a protection ic on the inverter board and it tells the controll ic whats the High voltage status of the inverters.....I soldered a 47uf @ 25 volt cap on pins 7&8 of ic-u2 [ bi3101a ] Pin 7 is posivtive pin 8 negative of the cap.... and then soldered pins 10 and 11 togeather on the other side of the ic.......ITs fooling that ic telling the main controll / protect line thats all is well........I would guess the whole deal is LOW inverter voltage or maybe a surface mount device thats going to go........could be low resistor tolerence also............The monitor been working for a week now.........Always on.....anyways........YOUR problem may just be bad solder or bad caps...........if you Have a electronic background or have a friend that works on electronics have him look at the caps.see if any or swelled or rounded on the top of the caps..Also chect the main plug that goes to the LCD backplane to make sure its in correctley................if all that checks then the problem is ON THE INVERTER BOARD ONLY ......befor doing what i have done......I also have a Viewsonic VA-800 that had some of the same problems also ,but it had a lot of lines on the video.......I replaced the,,,,, 2.2 mic @ 50 volt cap in the middle of the main board on it and its still running.....but has about 3/8 of white traces following all the words on the desktop...[[[ anyone that knows this fix i would like to hear from ]]] ..........NOTE if you dont know about electronics...dont attemp any of this......their is a lot of voltage on the inverter board........my answer is that these monitors are JUNK...poorley built units.....
Posted on Oct 05, 2008
To clarify, you know that analog is referring to the VGA 15 pin video input, and digital is referring to the DVI video input, right? You can't have the digital video unless you use the DVI input, which requires a DVI output from your computer (and a DVI cord of course).
If you already knew this and you mean that it won't switch over to your DVI, then there could be several problems. Most of them being with your DVI signal source (computer). Try booting the PC with ONLY the DVI cord attached between the PC and the monitor. If you have a VGA cord plugged into either, UNPLUG IT FROM BOTH ENDS.
Posted on Dec 05, 2009
I had the exact same problem. It's a bad capacitor on your power board. It's most likely the 1000uF 25v one towards the center of the board. I noticed it on mine because the top of the capacitor was pushed out more than usual and it has some residue, which are signs of a burnt out/bad capacitor. (WARNING: There is a risk of electric shock when opening the power supply unit. Leave the unit unplugged for at least a few hours before working on it. Proceed at own risk!) Read on for a fix:
1. In the back, remove the stand screw covers (x2) to access and remove the stand screws (x4).
2. There will be a single screw under where the stand was attached on the screen. Remove it.
The LCD/unit is sandwiched between the thin faceplate and back cover, which are held together by several clips:
3. Carefully pry and remove the faceplate with a flathead screwdriver or other flat tool.
4. There will be 2 screws holding the button circuit board in place. Remove the screws, unplug the small cable from the board, and remove the board.
5. There are a few clips towards the bottom that hold the back panel onto the LCD frame. Pick at those until you completely remove the LCD unit.
6. Remove the 4 side screws holding the LCD panel to the frame.
7. Carefully disconnect the 2 sets of wires and the single ribbon cable from the LCD panel, taking note of their direction.
8. Remove the 4 screws holding the large power control board in place, and disconnect the 2 cables connected to it (the smaller cable disconnects from the power control board, while the larger one disconnects from the other end).
9. Locate the faulty capacitor and take note of its direction/polarity (+ and -). Use a powerful soldering iron to remove it from the board. I say 'powerful' because I could not get the factory solder to melt with my Weller at full 850 degrees. If you can't get it unsoldered, you can CAREFULLY pry it off with some pliers. If the connectors remain attached on the board, pry them off as well.
10. Put in the new capacitor ($1.73 at Radio Shack), taking care not to bend or break the leads and taking note of its polarity. Trim the excess lead wire off and carefully solder into place.
To finish, follow steps in reverse 8 through 1. Plug it in and test. If all is good, it should remain on. You might hear a tiny high-pitched sound when there is no signal or screen is idle. This happens with mine, but should be no cause for concern.
Hope this helps and good luck!
Questions? Email me: firstname.lastname@example.org
Posted on Mar 10, 2010
Check for bad caps as shown in my pictures here: http://s807.photobucket.com/albums/yy352/budm/Viewsonic%20VX2235W/
If you are going to DIY and have proper tools and know safety precaution then please read on:
Most common failures in the LCD monitors are bad capacitors (bulging top/seal or leaking) in the power supply, blown fuses; poor solder joints, failed inverter circuits (blown fuse, shorted transistors, shorted/open transformers), bad lamps (poor solder connections or worn out lamps). You will need to open it up and inspect the inside, see example of failed monitors to get some ideas what to look for: http://s807.photobucket.com/home/budm/allalbums
Post back what you see inside so we can guide you further and it will help out other people in the future also.
Posted on Jul 11, 2010
Testimonial: "thank you for your support,i will open up and see inside then Ilet you know .once again thanks so much"
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