The camera is in otherwise excellent condition however the first shot if I haven't used it in a couple days the shutter hangs open for several seconds. Once I run through a couple shots it seems to be fine but then the problem comes back but to a lesser degree if I don't take a picture in a while(10 min.)
Any help would be much appreciated. Thanks.
This seems to be a problem with the gears, it most likely just needs to be cleaned. and I would suggest taking it to a camera repair place, or sending it to one, as it can be harmful to your camera to clean it yourself!
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All shutters do have a certain tolerance. Because you don't say anything about the real time the shutter is open, It is impossible to tell what camera has a "correct" shutter time. Or if they both are of. I used to calibrate my camera's, because most of the time the next time is exact twice or half of the former time on the dial. Even with the band new cameras in the past, I shot one or two rolls, to check if my settings were correct. Never had any trouble with shutter times, because I never checked how long the were open.
Happy ending to this saga of the Nikon N2020 AF. I went to Walmart and purchased some real photo grade batteries. At first the result was the same, no apparent change, dead camera. I left the batteries in the camera overnight. The next day I tried depressing the shutter button with the camera turned on to S for single shot, and to my amazement the camera came alive! I don't know why or how but now it works and I don't have to bring it in for servicing. Today we will be off to the local zoo to take some shots. Can't wait. Thanks for all the comments and suggestions.
do you mean the shutter doesn't close all the way? put select on B , gently push shutter to the left to fully close the shutter. charge shutter and fire it a few times, it should free itself after a few shots.
any mechanical device needs a periodic clean, lube & adjust, ( CLA ), after not being used for 5 years your X350 just needs that. take it or send to a camera repair shop for an estimate first. there are no new parts available for this model minolta.
Do you mean that, you press the shutter release once and the shutter stays open until you press the shutter release a second time. If so, check your shutter speed setting. If it is set to "T" (Timed Exposure) the camera is working correctly. Change your shutter speed to an appropriate setting, such as 1/125. If that does not solve the problem, you might need to take it in for repair.
It could be a jammed shutter. If you take the lens out and the film out. Take a few pictures and see if the shutter moves. If there is no movement I would take it into a camera shop and take a look at it. Unless the shutter spring is busted, it could be an easy fix.
Action shots generally require a fast shutter speed -- to freeze the motion. So you need plenty of light or a "fast" lens. A fast lens is one in which the aperture opens further to let in more of light. The smaller the number of the maximum aperture, the faster the lens, so a 28-105mm f/3.5-4.5 lens is "faster" than a 28-105mm f/4.0-5.6 lens. But usually, faster lenses cost more.
For the settings on the camera, the Rebel K2 has a Sports image mode (silhouette of a runner) on the control dial which should get you appropriate settings for most action shots.
If you want to set the shutter speed yourself use the Tv mode, and with a fixed shutter speed, the camera will set the correct aperture. Watch in the viewfinder -- if the aperture value is flashing, it means the shot will be underexposed. You will have to select a slower shutter speed.
Another way to get action shots with limited light or a "slower" lens is to use film with higher ISO/ASA. ISO 100 film is good for daylight shots, but for inside shots or evening shots, use ISO 400 film. Higher ISO film is "grainier", so enlargements will show less detail.
I doubt you still need help with this considering it's over 8 months later... but the same thing has been happening to me lately, I've had to force the self timer to start by giving it a little push, once it gets going it starts to work normally again.
Appature settings are never precise because they constantly need to be adjusted to suit the individual lighting conditions, in other words it is impossible to make a blanket statement for the best fstop and shutter speed to use for florescent lighting since that would depend on the size of the room ambient light the number of florescent lights and the distance to the target. As a rule of thumb these cameras have reasonably good light sensors so setting them to auto and pressing the button halfway should show you a display of the recommended fstop and shutter settings. I would recommend then bracketing from these settings. Bracketing is the process of taking several shots while varying the exposure settings to "passthrough" the optimal settings. Usually if you have a good idea what exposure will work a three step bracket is all that is required. Example (based on outdoor exposure): Optimal settings show shutter at 500 fstop at 16 Bracket picture 1: shutter 250 fstop 16 Picture 2: Shutter 500 fstop 16 Picture 3: Shutter 1000 fstop 16
There is also a handy rule of thumb for exposure settings Note that this also changes based on type of film See the following chart for iso 400 film fstop of 16: Bright sunlight: shutter 1/2000 th or just 2000 Partly cloudy: about 1/500th or 500 Overcast:1/125th or 125 Medium source (open window on a sunny day): 60 Inside light: 30 Low light: 15 up to 1" night: varying