Plugged 4w 120v trimmer into 220v outlet with a 50-2000w 220-110v coverter - it blew fuse and doesn't work. soldering melted off wire inside
Remington model HC-100 haircutter/beard trimmer 120v 4w 60hz listed 300a --- I plugged it into a 220v outlet (I am out of the US) with a 220-110v 50-2000w converter. When I turned it on it blew a fusebox fuse, made a popping noise and stopped working. On opening the trimmer I found that the solder has been melted off of a wire inside between switch and motor.
I re-attached the wire and plugged it into the 220v outlet this time with a step down transformer (220-110v) rated (up to) 500 w. I turned it on and it did the same thing as before with the same results.
Question: what type of converter should I be using and should the trimmer work if I re-attach the wire again and use the correct converter?
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Many Remington shavers sold in the US are only for use with 120V. Voltage in your country may be 220V-240V. If you attempted to use a 120V charger in your 220V electrical outlet without a voltage converter, you have probably damaged the charger.
Chargers can be purchased at shaveroutlet.com. You will need your shavers model number to select the correct cord. And, you may need to use a voltage converter if the replacement you get is for use with 120V ShaverOutlet com ShaverOutlet com Cords Chargers Stands Shaver Replacement...
If its been changed to 220V plugging it into 120V won't damage anything, it just won't work. Replace the plug with a 120V plug end and plug it in. If it works its120 if it doesn't, its either a 220V setup, or you have a blown fuse in the unit/power supply or some other defect.
It sounds like the safety mechanism is fussy. It may be broken. Or, sometimes a connection within the unit itself might come loose. I've seen wires get so hot the solder melts and the wires detatch. The little tab that engages the safety mechanism might be chipped or broken off. If the outlet is working, the unit is getting power. The power is just not getting to the motor inside the device.
There could be an internal fuse that blew. If you unplug the device, set it up as if you are going to use it, activate the the device while holding an ohmmeter to the plug prongs, you should get a reading over 10 ohms.
If you get 0 ohms, there's and internal short circuit. If you get nothing--overload--infinite, it's a loose connection or a blown internal fuse.
The wire near the fuse is shorting out on the metal under the lower grill. Mine did that when I replaced the fuse and turned it on. If not under warranty, it is easier to replace it for $39.95 from Costco than the hassle of taking it apart and trying to replace the fuse, which involves the time to take it apart, buying a fuse and either the crimper and connectors or a soldering iron and high temp solder, since the regular solder melts shortly after it begins heating.
If this is the model I am thinking of, there are 3 outlets. One 240V (L1, L2, Neutral and Earth ground. Some models use a 3 terminal receptacle that combines Neutral and earth.), one 120V receptacle (L1, Neut, earth) and another 120V receptacle (L2, Neut, earth).
If you verified fuse and circuit breakers are good, turn on the generator and verify you get 120V on each of the two outlets. Measuring between the narrow blades of the two 120V outlets should be 240V.
***Shut off the generator.
With a test light or ohmmeter, check continuity from the earth terminal of 120V outlets to 240V outlet. Likewise for neutral (wider blade on 120V outlet). Lastly, check continuity from Narrow blade of each outlet to the 240V outlet.
I suspect that you miswired neutral and earth. On a 4 wire PLUG, it is customary to connect earth and neutral.
If you have or know someone how has a multi meter just test that you have 220 volts at the outlet. Thats about the only way to tell. The fan will run if you only have 120v at the outlet, just not the compressor. so it will not cool. If you only 120v at the outlet it could be just a fuse or breaker problem. If it's a new outlet then it could be wiring wrong also.
Hope this help
I have the same-just talked to TEAC last week, if fuses(two 5 amp glass ones inside housing-just remove screws on back after un-plugging 120v power) on the LSR-1008 subwoofer are blown, it may be failed relays. I replaced my fuses, both blew w/in 5 seconds. Called TEAC today, relays are NOT available alone and are solder connected; however, complete new circuit board is plug in, part #APE000515-0001 at $47.69 plus shipping. Verify #s and price with TEAC, but now I must decide if it's important to keep this sub, or if another at around 60$ on Ebay is a better bet. Good luck!