Question about Yamaha YSP1000 Main / Stereo Speaker

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YSP1000 popping Noise

I just noticed a slight clicking/popping noise coming out of the left side of the unit. Any idea what is causing this noise and what I need to do to correct the problem.

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Psw2500 stop

This symptom is most likely due to RLY1 (protection relay) not coming on. The purpose of this relay is to give some time for the circuits to settle during power up to avoid a "pop" noise as well as to detect DC in the output that may cause damage to the speaker. If there is a fault condition, this relay may stay off so there will be no sound. Note that the LED indicator for auto on/off is not driven by this relay so that is why you get an indication of signal even though you have no output. If you don't hear the relay click on, this may be the problem. It may also click on and off again.

One quick thing to try is to have music playing into the unit before you power it on. Power it on for 1 second and then power off and see if you hear any output, even for a short time. This tells us that the speaker and amplifier may be OK, but the power supply is having problems.

You need a VOM to check the following: (all measurements are referenced to ground) (speaker does not need to be connected) (be careful of the mains supply voltages)
1. Check to make sure you have around 50Vdc at cathode of D10 (side with the painted line on the case of the diode). This is the power supply to the relay.
2. Check connector CN2 and make sure you have +/-15V. The center of the connector is ground and this is a 3 pin connector, so each side will be a rail voltage. If either voltage is not close to +15 or -15, the relay may not come on.
3. Check anode side of D9. This should be close to 0V if the unit is normal, and close to 50Vdc if the unit is in protect mode.

If the unit is in protect mode and 1 and 2 look normal, the power amplifier has DC and is most likely damaged and will need some expertise to repair. If all seems normal and there is no output, the speaker may be burnt out. You can put the VOM in ohmmeter mode at the lowest ohm setting and measure the resistance of the voice coil which should measure below 10 ohms and above 2 ohms. When connected to the meter, slightly push on the cone and you should see the measurement change value slightly indicating that the speaker is probably not at fault.

If 1 above is normal, but 2 is not, look up (on FIXYA) how to fix this model when it cuts out at high levels as this fix should also work. If after applying this fix, the rails are not the correct voltage, you may need to replace either of the regulators U14 or U15.

Trouble shooting is the only way to approach this problem, but is you stick with it, you should have enough information to pinpoint the problem which will lead to the correct fix. Good luck.

Feb 03, 2014 | KEF Audio PSW 2500 Subwoofer

1 Answer

Fix subwoofer

Pop open the back side of the sub and see if the to connections are soldered firmly to the wires/drivers themselves & make sure your system is grounded meaning the 3 pronged plug has to have the 3 post still connected to the power cord. If its broken off as most people do it'll cause that feedback or dull hummmmm noise.

Oct 15, 2013 | Altec Lansing VS4121 Speaker

1 Answer

Kef subwoofer cuts out at high volumes

I have experienced the problem of the output cutting out in a KEF PSW2500. I have also previously replaced C52 which is mentioned in previous posts and is the storage capacitor to power U13 that protects the speaker from direct current in case of fault. The problem of cut out at high volume levels occurs on my unit as follows: When the input level is high in bass content, regardless of the input level (VR1) setting on the back of the unit, the output has a loud pop and stops until power is recycled, or just pops loudly on peaks but will recover. If I remove one channel of the input the problem is much less apparent.

The previous C52 fix corrected the buzzing noise caused by the protection relay coming on and off when the capacitor was dry, but the new problem is slightly related as follows: The audio operational amplifiers (opamps) make up the filter and gain stages and are powered by a +/-15V supply composed of U14 and U15. If you measure the -15V output (this can be done without the speaker connected and using a VOM) you may see that its output will go to 0V during peaks or may lock at 0v while the +15V side is stable. If you do measure this, the result is that the output of the opamps will have DC on them instead of 0V, causing U13 to detect this and shut down the output to the speaker to avoid damage.

Cause: The cause of this problem is due to the lack of input capacitors in the original design, between the Vin pin and ground of the voltage regulator IC's which in some cases can lead to latch up of one of the regulator IC's; especially the negative regulator (U15, LM7915). This part is not defective, but just latching up due to instability in the design.

Fix: To fix this problem, you need to add some components as follows: For simplicity sake, I used the same 47uF/63V parts that are used in the C52 repair. You need to solder 2 pieces in parallel with Vin and ground of U15, making sure the minus side of the capacitor is to the input and the plus side is to ground. Secondly, you need to solder 1 piece to the Vin and ground of U14, where in this case the minus side will go to the ground and the plus side to the input. Note: If you get the polarity wrong, the capacitor will blow up due to overheating. The reason that you unbalance the capacitors, is so that you make sure the positive regulator comes on first and then the negative regulator second. This is well documented by the manufacturers of the parts so it is not new.

Since this instability may be due to parts ageing, you may also want to add 1 piece of capacitor at each side of the +/-15V connector on the preamp board side, which is labeled CN2. This will make sure the audio circuits still have a healthy filter on the supply to keep the audio nice and clean. Note that the ground is common between the supplies so CN2 is only 3 pins.

You can test the unit without the speaker connected first with some high level content while re-checking the 15V supplies. Both should be stable and the protection relay should only come on when powered up and stay engaged anytime there is music content. If that checks out, re-assemble the unit (remembering to connect the red and black speaker wires) and enjoy your new sounding sub-woofer.

Dec 01, 2012 | KEF Audio PSW 2500 Subwoofer

2 Answers

I own a Bose Acoustimass 7. I noticed humming coming from bass more noticeable than before (although I recently moved it to another smaller room) I also noticed when I hear this humming- the higher I turn...

I was having this very same problem. I finally figured out that I was getting feedback to the system because my TV cable coming into the house wasn't grounded right.

Oct 04, 2011 | Bose Acoustimass 15 System

1 Answer

I have a pair of JM lab Electra 905 speakers, running through a DNM amp and power amps. When powered up, the left speaker makes a very loud humming noise. This has happened recently. I haven't changed...

Switch on your amp, keep its volue down to extreme low, and listen if there is still hum through the left channel or not. If still there is hum, the left side power amplifier section inside the amp;ifier is faulty. If htere is no hum at this state, hum enters thorugh the audio input terminal, and the input wires must be checked for open sheild connection. OK.

Apr 10, 2011 | Jmlab Electra 905 Speaker

1 Answer

Clicking noise from sub when in standby mode

Disconnect the input. Does it stop? If yes...

It sounds like it's sensing a signal at its turn-on threshold. Figure out why there's signal present when it shouldn't be there.

Exactly how is it connected to the source? LFE-only or full-range signal?

May 24, 2010 | Velodyne CHT-10 Subwoofer

1 Answer

Popping noise with hissing sound after long times about 1 hour

If I were you I would start by replacing the biggest (Capacitors) value ones first. You could put an ohm meter on any to see if they charge up when you take them out of the circuit.

Apr 28, 2010 | Infinity PS-10 Subwoofer

1 Answer

My sound system indiated error E-4

this is a set up error ...

Please check MIC position. MIC
should be set in front of YSP.
The optimizer microphone is not placed
in front of this unit.
Make sure that the optimizer microphone
is installed in front of this unit.

Apr 11, 2010 | Yamaha YSP1000 Main / Stereo Speaker

1 Answer

Ysp-1100 clicks when power is pressed but does not turn on.

Sounds like a a pcb dry joint or a poor connection on a multiway plug / socket.

try removing and refitting all the pcb plugs - better still spray carefully with WD40

Goog luck, Gaz

Jun 21, 2009 | Yamaha YSP-1100 Digital Sound Projector...

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