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The inside handle or the outside? to get the outside handle off you need to remove the inside door panel. It's wise to remove this panel in a warm place as the plastic parts and clips ten to break instead of pop apart as they don't bend well when cold. With the panel removed theirs a plastic seal that can be removed and you can see inside the door. looking at the handle from the back side thier'll be nuts holding it on. If you have the replacement handle you'll see the atteching points on it. If the handles broken thiers no point in removeing it until a new handle is in hand. If your not sure the handle is broken but need to remove it to find out, it's wise to it completly badck together even if it's not fixed so all the parts are where they belong not laying around to get lost or damaged.
Had a similar problem and started looking around inside the door. I tried to figure out how to remove the plastic air vent cover on the inside of the door (left side). I couldn't figure out how to remove it. So, we purchased a dishwasher cleaner at Lowe's ($4) and tired running it through the machine to see if it would correct the odor problem. It didn't. Somehow the "little lady" did manage to remove it (used a damn table knife of all things) twisted and popped the plastic air vent off. When it was removed she found the obvious problem, black foul smelling mold was growing under the plastic air vent that was radiating its terrible smell into the kitchen through the dishwasher door kitchen side vent . She cleaned the inside vent and the odor problem has left. I guess I'll never live this down, but I must admit that my wife solved the problem. Try this solution and see if it solves your problem. Let us know how you make out!
Door leaked because of a plastic bearing ($4.10 part) on the lower arm causing water inside to surge and splash out the vents on the bottom of the door. Soap cover problem was a corroded spring caught on a plastic part inside the door panel. The spring actually broke and now seems to work fine because there was another spring helping to do the same job that is now allowed to work.
you need to replace the seal on that side of the door due to it being worn. The easiest way to replace the seal is to lift the seal up from the inside and you can see the little bolts (1/4 inch head) on the inside. These bolts run through a metal strip that in turn holds the seal down. Once you loosen (do not remove) these bolts you can pull slightly and the seal will come out from the metal flashing strip holding it down. Look at the seal and you will notice a small hump where it sat on the inside of the hump on the metal flashing when you see it you'll understand what I mean. Once the older seal is removed the new seal is ready for replacement. Hint: If you let the new seal sit out in the sun for an hour or so it will become soft and pliable and much easier to work with.
Reinstallation is just the opposite of removal.
To make sure you get the correct seal take the model and serial numbers to a appliance parts house and they should have one for replacement.
Try getting lube down into the handle and into the latch from inside the back seat area of the car.. You will have to use straw.. If that dosent work try just popping top of inside door panel loose. You should be able to get your arm down in from there..
My Grandmother has 1995 Sentra and I just fixed this problem for her. She went to 3 places and no one would be bothered with it. Open the hood and you see there are 2 plastic panels where the wipers are. The wipers are on one plastic panel- but you don't have to remove that one, just the one on the passengers side. In order to get that off you need to take off the rubber weather striping that runs the width of the car- this has 8-10 snaps that just pull out with very little effort. Now remove the plastic panel- that kind of pops out & the might be 3 plastic tacks you can pop ou with a flat head screw driver. There is a oblong hole exposed now and if you look into it far to the left and just out of reach is a hole that vents the heat- the seal all around that hole on the outside is dryrotted or the silicone is pealed away. I used a quick dry silicone, squeezed gobs of it on paint stirring stick and reached in there and spread it all arounf the joint. I just kept lobbing it on. The farthest side was hard to reach but i would put it on the stick and just use the vent to scrap it off and let it drop down to the joint. I let it dry 30 minutes. Then, to be sure, I sprayed the stuff on TV that seals gutters and things on the inside of the vent. You could see and inside of the vent there was a small seal. You can also get the plastic coat spray can and you have to turn the can every which way to spray it. I put the hose in the hole (not the vent the air blows out of) and let it run 10 minutes- no water!I also should mention I did this before with the hose and water was pouring in from lust below the glove box
From the interior side, remove any screws for the armrest, door panel itself, remove window and door and handle if equipt. Remove door strap if present...pop loose the door panel trim or "door panel" and carefully remove without damaging the inside window weatherstripping.
You said, lint is collecting by vent located outdoors. And you feel, the lint trip
isn't working. and you feel very concerned that this is a fire hazard. We do
clean the lint trip off before every dryer run.
The fact that lint is clogging your outside vent does not mean the dryer is not working properly! The dryers with the top mount lint screens have blow by lint to the outside.
My next dryer will be a Speed Queen dryer which has the lint screen inside the dryer by the door and works better , without the mess on top of the dryer every time I remove it to clean before each load! That top filter is an old style design!
The outside screen is to keep small animals out! I find the new plastic outer vents have a plastic mesh screen which caused the same issue as you spoke of and caused my dryer to stop getting hot even though it was only half blocked outside ! I REMOVED the screen and left it off! And recommend this to all other folks too! The dryer is too hot for animals to want to enter! They sense it! AND THEY WON'T go in it!!
There are a few types.
1.The old ones are a aluminum vent with a aluminum flap like door that has a spring to keep it closed when the dryer is not on and forcing it open to allow for the exhaust to escape.
2. The newer ones can have a plastic flap that works the same way ,but usually designed without the spring mechanism.
3. the newest one are the ones with the plastic mesh screen that I spoke of above! Remove the pop off plastic screen and leave it off! Or if you have the flap door kind. Change the vent to the open one that comes with the plastic pop on mesh and do not put the screen on!!
It's been years that mine is off and it's all is fine.
You will be fine Bless You , huuum Please give me the best rating for this solved solution! Thank You!
Br, couple of things you can look for here. Check the vent, you can just pop this out. Sometimes there is a buildup of gunk which will hold water during wash and leak down between the door. There is a seal there, part number 974782. Another thing is to check the upper spray arm for cracks or splitting. This can send a direct flow of water into the vent. There is also a seal at the bottom of the upper spray arm, part number 3376846. I was fooled by a leak like this once, it turned out to be a clogged vent...Catriver..post back.